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Thread: scope has moved

  1. #1
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    scope has moved

    After my first use of HW95k I noticed the scope had moved.
    Well it looks like the forward mount had moved forward up the barrel rail and hence up the scope.the rear seemed to be ok.
    I have a mamba lite scope and bkl mounts.
    The main problem I have is knowing how much wellie I can give the allen bolts.
    I have a good idea how much force for bolts but I am not sure of the alley mounts and rail.
    Also I do not know how much scop tube can take before it deforms.
    To give a idea,i nipped up the rings equally each side using the long part of a allen key with fingers and thumb till it would go no further then a quarter turn proper.
    When I used to fly rc models the norm was to use a allen wrench and with bolts of this size tighten fully with hand.
    Dont know if tbis applies here.

  2. #2
    Hsing-ee's Avatar
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    You can tighten the bolts till they are at breaking point, and it still won't stop the creep. You need to get an arrestor pin down into one of the holes at the rear of the cylinder, this will lock the rear mount to the cylinder. If your scope mounts don't have an arrestor pin (located in the lower half of one of the mounts, and which can be drifted or screwed down into the arrestor stop hole), you will need to get a one-piece mount, another set of mounts with an arrestor pin or an arrestor block that can be fitted to the recoil stop.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazzalene View Post
    After my first use of HW95k I noticed the scope had moved.
    Well it looks like the forward mount had moved forward up the barrel rail and hence up the scope.the rear seemed to be ok.
    I have a mamba lite scope and bkl mounts.
    The main problem I have is knowing how much wellie I can give the allen bolts.
    I have a good idea how much force for bolts but I am not sure of the alley mounts and rail.
    Also I do not know how much scop tube can take before it deforms.
    To give a idea,i nipped up the rings equally each side using the long part of a allen key with fingers and thumb till it would go no further then a quarter turn proper.
    When I used to fly rc models the norm was to use a allen wrench and with bolts of this size tighten fully with hand.
    Dont know if tbis applies here.
    Hsing-ee is spot on. This was the case with my 99s. There was an arrester grub-screw (mounts supplied with new Hawke), but it was tapered to a needle point- to stop movement in a recess about 5mm in diameter! Make sure your screw is upto the job.
    Seize the Day! Quigley Hollow is a great place to start.

  4. #4
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    I have a set of BKLs, and I won't put them on a HW springer for this reason.

    The center-split BKL design doesn't allow for a recoil arrestor stud:

    http://www.bkltech.com/1inch-Scope-R...etail-s/57.htm

    I'd be getting Sportsmatch, or as Gwyn says, the cheaper Hawke mounts seem just as good really, and the arrestor stud being a screw rather than the Sportsmatch friction-fit pin makes the Hawkes easier to set the stud depth to just-off the bottom of the receiving hole.

    If the HW95 kicks like a mule, it might be worth investing in a one-piece double strap version of the above.

    And some like the look of a one-piece mount on a springer...

    Sportsmatch FAQ >>here<< gives torques and some fitting advice.

    I'd agree with the short end of the allen key twix finger & thumb, plus a quarter if required... Be careful tightening the top straps over the scope body tube. They can crush the tube all too easily with too much torque... Maintain gaps both sides, so the top straps are 'floating'.

    Good luck
    Last edited by Rickenbacker; 22-12-2014 at 02:47 AM. Reason: spelling

  5. #5
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    My first preference would be Sportsmatch, they use a scroll pin arrester so if you buy second hand make sure it comes with the mounts as it is supplied new unfitted.


    Hawke mounts have a grub screw arrester easier to fit but I’ve found that a couple I’ve had have not aligned correctly (two piece mounts) now this could have been because I had bought them second hand, I can’t remember and you never know if they have been mixed and matched.

    So the short answer is get a new pair of Sportsmatch.
    Last edited by Dodger21; 22-12-2014 at 10:44 AM. Reason: typo
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  6. #6
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    Yep, get yourself a Sportsmatch mount, you only need to nip the screws up on a mount, cranking them up super tight is trying to resolve a different issue with brute force, if your rifle is recoiling or more likely vibrating so much the mounts creep, it's time for a strip down and tune up, that's' the real problem!

  7. #7
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    Just my luck,i read that most mounts sports match inc are kind of one size fits all for dove tail and with that being thd case the mounts tend to not sit central,see a vid on it.the bkl mounts dont do this,also read they never move!
    Looks like I will have to get new mounts and keep the bkl,s for a pcp.
    Is a one piece mount tve best option?

  8. #8
    barrel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazzalene View Post
    Just my luck,i read that most mounts sports match inc are kind of one size fits all for dove tail and with that being thd case the mounts tend to not sit central,see a vid on it.the bkl mounts dont do this,also read they never move!
    Looks like I will have to get new mounts and keep the bkl,s for a pcp.
    Is a one piece mount tve best option?
    Yes mate without doubt go for a one piece mount, as mentioned if you don't want to pay Sportsmatch prices the Hawke Match Mount is very good quality and value.

    Kindest regards

    Barrel
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  9. #9
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    Can anyone comment on this issue of the varible clamp being off centre.
    I dont know if hawke and sportsmatch only do 9-11mm variable.

  10. #10
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    Any offset is minimal, if your scope is 1.5mm offset to the right and you zero at 25yds, you will be 1.5mm off to the left at 50yds, so unless your able to shoot to within 1.5mm at 50yds, don't worry about it not relevant at airgun ranges.

  11. #11
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    When its explained like that I can see it not being a issue.
    Just goes to show a little knowlege is a dangerous thing.
    I vow not to waste them BKL,s a pcp must be utilised post haste.
    Thanks for info.

  12. #12
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    At long ranges with fullbore rifles it's obviously a serious issue, crossover as it's called can be eliminated with a little expertise, but at airgun ranges it really makes no difference.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazzalene View Post
    After my first use of HW95k I noticed the scope had moved.
    Well it looks like the forward mount had moved forward up the barrel rail and hence up the scope.the rear seemed to be ok.
    I have a mamba lite scope and bkl mounts.
    The main problem I have is knowing how much wellie I can give the allen bolts.
    I have a good idea how much force for bolts but I am not sure of the alley mounts and rail.
    Also I do not know how much scop tube can take before it deforms.
    To give a idea,i nipped up the rings equally each side using the long part of a allen key with fingers and thumb till it would go no further then a quarter turn proper.
    When I used to fly rc models the norm was to use a allen wrench and with bolts of this size tighten fully with hand.
    Dont know if tbis applies here.
    This would suggest that one mount has been tightened enough but the other hasn't
    I use BKL mounts on a HW97 and they never move. BKL mounts don't have arrester pins because with BKL's you don't need them.
    I use normal Allen key supplied with the mounts. Tighten the rail clamp screws using the short end of key inserted into screw, longer part for more leveridge which the clamp needs. Use the longer part inserted in the scope clamp screws, less leaveridge as damage to scope can be caused. I find using this method it is difficult to overtighten causing damage.
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