Simplest option is probably going to be to buy the cheapest (by weight) pre-cast bullets and then melt them down and recast them. You can occasionally get a really good deal on stuff that isn't shifting in a shop.
Simplest option is probably going to be to buy the cheapest (by weight) pre-cast bullets and then melt them down and recast them. You can occasionally get a really good deal on stuff that isn't shifting in a shop.
Tac, sorry about the link... ... Their Tin is 99.9995% pure, so that is probably the reason for the price.
As for the dealer, did they look in the wooden drawers below the reloading stuff...
I will have a scout about and see what I can find. Does it have to be Tin?
Another thought is you could use 60/40 solder and calculate the correct amount to add. It is only lead, tin and a bit of resin which will burn off.
Mark
Rapid electronics lead free solder pellets are £43.24/kg plus tax.
That is 0.45% to 0.9% copper with the residual as tin.
I buy from them all the time, ask me nicely and maybe we can figure out some dodgy under the counter type deal
You could make your own alloy.
Melt down a few suitable bullets and cast them into balls. Put one at a time at the bottom of a tube about 4-5 feet long and drop a metal weight, such as a steel bar, down the tube. Do it 3-4 times and measure the indentation with a micrometer so you know what you grade of alloy you need.
I know it is not rocket science but if you amass different grades of lead you can test it and tell how hard or soft it is and take it from there.
Lead/tin solder is stall available on boot sales, and you can use wiped lead joints which are high in tin. It is a bit of messing getting the right alloy but any lead you have, or alloy, you can test the same way and use it as a guide to get the result you want.
Atb.
have you tried linotype?
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com