Walnut Stock care

[guybinks]

I posted a q on here a while ago on what to use for Walnut stock care.

I plumped for Boiled Linseed Oil, and it does the trick nicely, smells like a new cricket bat, which brings back memories of playing cricket as a child with me old man.

Its as cheap as chips too, £2.49 for 500ml from Wickes.

[aaront]

how did you prep the wood and what was your application method?

Aaron.

[guybinks]

the wood is mint, so I just got some oil on a cloth and wiped it on, it soaked into the wood, and remains superb to the touch.


I like to keep the wood oiled every month or so to keep the finish, and also to protect it.

[snock]

Did you apply it with some wire wool (fine grade) or just rub it in with som cloth??



Pete.


I just read the post again, and saw that it was a cloth.

[AndrewB]

how did you prep the wood and what was your application method?

Aaron.

There are countless posts on here which go into some detail about it, and some have links to other sites. For once "do a search" is worthwhile advice!

Oh and in response to the original post, whilst not oiling (ie most of the time) an application of Lord Sheraton Pure Beeswax Balsam maintains and also improves the finish.

Can then be stripped off if required for re-oiling.

Available from J Sainsbury, I believe,

AndrewB

[guybinks]

Oh and in response to the original post, whilst not oiling (ie most of the time) an application of Lord Sheraton Pure Beeswax Balsam maintains and also improves the finish.
AndrewB

I only use beeswax on Beech, as I like the walnut to look matte, not glossy.

My personal preference.

Each to their own

[aaront]

I did do a search and found a few but i didnt find any with a decent desctription of cloth aplication and how it differed from wirewool in teh finish.

So I asked how to determin what question I was going to ask next.

Aaron.

[guybinks]

In terms of cloth application, put cloth on finger, put finger in hole of bottle, turn bottle upside down, right bottle, apply to stock.
In other worder just a light application.

I've never wire woolled a stock, but have done loads of beeswax and wire woolled furniture.

With wire wool, I believe it gets the grain up and thus lets the wood absorb more, I think this would be for stripped wood, such as when you strip wax off wood using white spirit and wire wool.

I could be talking bo11ocks though, I often do!

[AndrewB]

OK, here goes, a brief synopsis:

If starting from bare wood or from a totally stripped stock, sand with increasingly fine paper until about 300 grit. Ensure you remove the dust from the paper regularly, else it "burns" and marks the wood.

At this point, dampen the wood, and leave overnight. Then sand with the same grit you sanded before raising the grain.

Repeat again with finer and finer paper until you can stand it no more Always sand in the direction of the grain.

Once you are as smooth as tennis player's bottom you may wish to fill the grain. In this case, oil the wood, sand with about a 500 grit paper, and whilst wet wipe the residue ACROSS the grain with a soft cloth. Do this until,there is a good residue of slurry on the stock.

Allow to dry and then sand once more, dry, with a finer paper.

Then apply oil (as stated above) very thinly, with the fingers, and rub in until just about absorbed. Leave overnight to dry.

Repeat again, as often as required to obtain the finish you want.

The problem I have personally found here with oiling is that even if you apply very thinly (and I have used Liberon finishing oil and danish oil) it can produce a slightly thick and tacky surface.

At which point I rub down with one of those abrasive pan scrubbers to remove excess oil, allow to settle, and then apply a finishing of beeswax or similar.

I do hope this helps, please feel free to add / delete / argue / or otherwise amend

AndrewB

[Troubledshooter]

You may find this link useful, although it doesn't cover Walnut or Linseed oils, it does cover Danish & Teak oils :
http://www.rustins.co.uk/Clearcoat_int.html

[Rapidnick]

There are countless posts on here which go into some detail about it, and some have links to other sites. For once "do a search" is worthwhile advice!

Oh and in response to the original post, whilst not oiling (ie most of the time) an application of Lord Sheraton Pure Beeswax Balsam maintains and also improves the finish.

Can then be stripped off if required for re-oiling.

Available from J Sainsbury, I believe,

AndrewB

Very good polish with a lovely smell but I personally prefer the beeswax furniture polish applied with wire wool.

[dvd]

I had to raise a few dents on a walnut stock and after sanding to my satisfaction,I applied danish oil with a cotton cloth in circular motion,till it stops sliding smoothly and starts to drag on the surface . I am careful to do this process when there is not more than 50% humidity in the air,otherwise I found that it stays tacky and building the next layer is impossible.Leave to dry well and next day repeat all over the wood, till the desired result is achieved.It took about 10 rubbings(days) to come out right and now only gets wiped with a duster. Its been there years now and still looks fine.
It is not too shiny but the grain comes out really nice in my opinion.
I tried it on beech,but its not too brilliant,works better where there is a bit of contrast in the wood.
Be careful where you dispose of cloth used for oiling wood.I read somewhere it can ignite sponteanously.I always throw them in a bucket of water when I'm finished.