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Thread: My stock. Craftsmen look away now

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith66 View Post
    Quick lesson on glues from an experienced boatbuilder who has used them all & seen failures in most of them! in order of strength & durability, PVA is ok for interior work but its not waterproof & not for things like gunstocks, There is a similar waterproof glue called Titebond 3 that is a lot stronger & just as easy to use.
    Gorrila glue, or similar foaming PU glues are for quick & dirty work & do not have long term strength or durability.
    Cascamite is a urea formaldehyde one of a family of glues developed for aircraft in WW2 (including the mosquito) Aerolite is a another that is very good. They are not recomended for underwater use & will start to degrade after 30 years or so.
    Rescorcinol glues like Aerodux or Cascophen are still available & were also developed for aircraft use. They are still the most durable & waterproof glues going, they are not the easiest to use as they need very accurate mixing & are sensitive to temperature.
    Epoxies are the strongest & most versatile, waterproof & easy to use. Main drawback is they have very low UV resistance so if exposed should be painted or varnished.
    I bow to your specialist knowledge of glue suitability & stand corrected on cascamite for long term submersive use, but the point I was trying to put across is as you say pva is not suitable long term for gunstocking repairs, I agree with you on epoxy resin, but as the op has used cascamite I would like to reassure him that its more than up to the job,
    Regards G

  2. #17
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    Really appreciate the input/interest from all. Thanks.
    Here's the next stages




    Solid as a rock and smooth as a baby's bottom. Bit of final fettling then on to finish. Undecided yet but would love to replicate original satin
    oiled finish. Any tips appreciated.

  3. #18
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    Unlike others on here, I don't usually submerge my rifles in water for any periods, (usually does nasty things to blued steel finishes too) I usually also finish them in either oil type finishes (usual and personally preferred method) or varnished, so I guess I will be sticking to PVA! It's served me well over 40 years!

    ASM
    I am a Man of La Northumberlandia, a true Knight and spend my days on my Quest (my duty nay privilege!) and fighting dragons and unbeatable foe, to right the unrightable wrongs, to bear with unbearable sorrow and dreaming my impossible dreams.

  4. #19
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    I think you can look now

    Here it is after a rub with wood restorer.






    Tin of Danish awaits. Meanwhile the innards are being fettled.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by deejayuu View Post
    Here it is after a rub with wood restorer.






    Tin of Danish awaits. Meanwhile the innards are being fettled.
    nice one,perfick. atb

  6. #21
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    mmmm its had it me old son

  7. #22
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    Top job Sir

    Kevin
    Daystate Panther in .177
    Daystate Air Ranger in .22
    BSA Meteor Mk1 in .22

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith66 View Post
    Quick lesson on glues from an experienced boatbuilder who has used them all & seen failures in most of them! in order of strength & durability, PVA is ok for interior work but its not waterproof & not for things like gunstocks, There is a similar waterproof glue called Titebond 3 that is a lot stronger & just as easy to use.
    Gorrila glue, or similar foaming PU glues are for quick & dirty work & do not have long term strength or durability.
    Cascamite is a urea formaldehyde one of a family of glues developed for aircraft in WW2 (including the mosquito) Aerolite is a another that is very good. They are not recomended for underwater use & will start to degrade after 30 years or so.
    Rescorcinol glues like Aerodux or Cascophen are still available & were also developed for aircraft use. They are still the most durable & waterproof glues going, they are not the easiest to use as they need very accurate mixing & are sensitive to temperature.
    Epoxies are the strongest & most versatile, waterproof & easy to use. Main drawback is they have very low UV resistance so if exposed should be painted or varnished.
    A few years back when I was intending to build a wooden bench to support my Myford ML7, the old book by Thomas I believe, advised against using PVA to glue the bench together even though it would have all been bolted together as well. Apparently PVA is not stable in humid and low temps and would have caused the bench to deform and bend the lathes bed. It gave the name of the proper glue for the application which I can not remember and the book has also vanished.

    A.G

  9. #24
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    Looks like a nice bit of wood that!
    I hope you drilled the correct size pilot hole before whacking that big bad boy bolt in or it will split again - I would have gone for a hardwood dowel glued in!
    Advice - don't drop it again!

    ASM
    I am a Man of La Northumberlandia, a true Knight and spend my days on my Quest (my duty nay privilege!) and fighting dragons and unbeatable foe, to right the unrightable wrongs, to bear with unbearable sorrow and dreaming my impossible dreams.

  10. #25
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    Don't know how this post got resurrected but still pleased with result. Checked it today.
    By chance the little love that dropped it all those years ago is here over the weekend with his family.

  11. #26
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by SPILY View Post
    I would and have used PVA wood glue, its stronger than the wood itself, good luck.

    I'll second this- Nothing better for timber!


    John
    for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
    www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/

  12. #27
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    Thumbs up

    Hi

    I bought a HW95 that had suffered the same fate, It had been glued together but with no reinforcement so I drilled a deep pilot hole then went over it partway with an 8mm drill to sink the head well down then drove a 2.5" phillips screw straight down! Gives me a bit more confidence to shoot it!

    Pic 1


    I refinished the stock too as it was a bit light coloured for my taste, It was quite blotchy too- It's one of the smoothest guns I have though!!

    Pic 2

    Pic 3

    Pic 4


    John
    for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
    www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/

  13. #28
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    Hsing-ee is offline may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
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    I did a similar repair some time ago, but I used a bolt and a nut. That means that you don't have the lateral stresses a self-tapping screw sets up. You have to deal with filling another hole in the stock but the rigidity of the final thing is magnificent, spectacular and extraordinary.

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