BSA Airsporter

[cjs34wmr]

Hi All,
I'm new to this Forum, having had my interest in Air rifles re-kindled. I recently found out my old BSA Airsporter .177, which I received as a gift back in 1974 believe it or not. It still fires and appears to have some power??? However, the wood has dings and the Barrel is rusty, so I want to strip it down and refurbish it.
1st question, "How do I get the darn end cap off"? I've tried a bar through the hole with the chamber in the vice but it won't shift. Anyone got any ideas please?
I'm wondering if a bit of heat applied around the thread might help.
Regards
Chris

[Shed tuner]

Hi All,
I'm new to this Forum, having had my interest in Air rifles re-kindled. I recently found out my old BSA Airsporter .177, which I received as a gift back in 1974 believe it or not. It still fires and appears to have some power??? However, the wood has dings and the Barrel is rusty, so I want to strip it down and refurbish it.
1st question, "How do I get the darn end cap off"? I've tried a bar through the hole with the chamber in the vice but it won't shift. Anyone got any ideas please?
I'm wondering if a bit of heat applied around the thread might help.
Regards
Chris

Welcome. It does unscrew, but they can be a bit stiff. It may need impact, as opposed to just force. No harm trying some sensible heat to assist - the expansion and contraction itself can help.

[oliver13]

Heat & violence can help to break the threads loose, it's a normal anti-clockwise from the rear to unthread, & plenty of WD40.
One thing, don't be tempted to put a tommy bar through the loading tap hole, just use a good big vice with protected jaws on the breech.
The worst one I ever did, a Mercury I ended up loosening it by using a copper mallet to give the treaded portion at the end of the compression tube a good going over & that was the charm, it's hand tight now.

[Black Beard]

My one has a slot in the cylinder under where the barrel joins. Get a big chunk of wood and drill a cylinder sized hole in it. Drill a smaller hole at 90 degrees in to this hole the same size as the slot. Put the cylinder through the big hole and a steel rod through the smaller hole and in to the slot. The cylinder now can't rotate and you can get lots of torque on it without damaging anything. Easy.

[cjs34wmr]

My one has a slot in the cylinder under where the barrel joins. Get a big chunk of wood and drill a cylinder sized hole in it. Drill a smaller hole at 90 degrees in to this hole the same size as the slot. Put the cylinder through the big hole and a steel rod through the smaller hole and in to the slot. The cylinder now can't rotate and you can get lots of torque on it without damaging anything. Easy.

Brilliant' thanks a lot Black Beard I will try this this weekend and see how I get on.
Best regards
Chris

[cjs34wmr]

Heat & violence can help to break the threads loose, it's a normal anti-clockwise from the rear to unthread, & plenty of WD40.
One thing, don't be tempted to put a tommy bar through the loading tap hole, just use a good big vice with protected jaws on the breech.
The worst one I ever did, a Mercury I ended up loosening it by using a copper mallet to give the treaded portion at the end of the compression tube a good going over & that was the charm, it's hand tight now.

Thanks Oliver, keep at it and see how it goes.
Regards
Chris