Pistol anatomical grip sizes question

[Balders]

Hi all,

I'm relatively new to 10m pistol, and have been trying out a variety of guns over the last few weeks.

I've have the use of a FAS604 at my local club, which we've adjusted the palm plate to suit me and it fits me "fairly" well. I'm getting reasonably good scores on it considering I've only been going along for a few sessions.

Over the last two weeks I've put 60 shots through both an LP10 and a FWB P44, both with "medium" grip sizes. Note no adjustment was made to the owners grip or sites.

I found the grip on the LP10 felt MUCH larger...not bad on my palm but I couldn't wrap my fingers around it particularly well. The FWB which has a morini grip felt much more "glove" like, although still was far from perfect.

I think I probably have wide palms and short fingers. Can anyone with direct experience comment on this, ie do the steyr grips run larger than the morini/fwb grips in general? Whilst it's some time away, I'm considering an LP10 but really worried about which grip size to order.

I should mention that I'm in Jersey, so it's not simply a case of walking in to a dealer and trying multiple grips unfortunately.

Look forward to any feedback.

Regards
Steve B

[markkeogh]

I've just started all this malarkey for my daughter and I know what you mean.
Some have S,M,L and others have No1 to No4.
My daughter has quite a medium to delicate hand whereas I've been told I've got hands like a slab so it's been an outside study to sort her out.
She has ended up with a Hammerli AP20 Pro due to weight and cost considerations but it comes with the Walther 3D grip in medium.
Now it's a little large for her, not that she realises as each minute she's seen me adjust something to perfect the fit in her hand (even down to twisting the pistol slightly in the grip as her natural raise has the end of the barrel pointing slightly to the left of centre and high).

That said my plan has always been to find something that is close to perfect fitting and the only option I've found after her placing Steyr's and FWB's in her hand is that sooner or later with any of them is that I might have to take the Dremmel to it.
My plan was to go slightly oversize and trim it to suit her hand if I had to which, in your remote situation, might be an option to consider.
Another thing I found though is that my local dealer was prepared to send me home with both M and S grips with a view to returning the one I didn't want and this might suit you to order the LP10 with both M and S on sale or return for the additional grip.
In fairness my dealer wasn't even going to add it on the price but he does know me know.
Hope this helps
Mark

[Balders]

Thanks for the reply Mark.

Plan A at the moment is spend a few more weeks working on "me" rather than worry about the gun as much. I'm not out shooting the FAS I'm sure.

I spoke to a dealer north of the border who said they would exchange grips which is terrific but then they said they couldn't export to me,which put the kybosh on that.

I'm thinking a combination of dremel and plastic wood probably to get it perfect.

Cheers
Steve

[nige346]

Steyr grips tend to come up a bit larget than the Rink equivalent, go on the rink website and use the instructions to get the correct grip size for a Rink, I have found that I use a large steyr grip or XL Rink equivalent as they tend to be a bit smaller, this may help. I now use a Rink and have to say it was worth EVERY penny I spent on it, £180 sounds a lot and I was at first hesitant, but I can honestly say it fits perfectly and made a bit difference to my shooting. Grips play a huge part in consistency so never an area to cut corners, any modifications should be done carefully and gradually with plenty of testing, it can take months to get em right but but worth all the effort and time when they are correct.

[Fierynick]

Grips will also vary grip to grip, so try before you buy! A lot of people really get on with Rink Grips, or Ciro, or Minelli or whatever..... to get any grip 'perfect' you will have to work on it yourself, you will need to add putty or remove wood or more likely both! My advice would be to find a grip that fits you pretty well and then be willing to work on it. Size guides are available online, also consider speaking to the dealers (Harry at Steyr, Iqbal at Morini, Paul at Pardini etc) to get advice and to try grips out. Grips are very important to shooting well so don't rush into anything!!

[Balders]

Thanks, I'll go take a look at the rink website and see what I can find out.

[tufty]

No grip,out of the box will fit your hand perfectly,as nick says,follow the online sizing guide to get one that's at least comfortable,then do some work on it to get it to fit perfectly,if you haven't done this before,start off by applying plasticine or blue tack until you get a feel for what works for you before making it permanent with wood filler,I'd recommend Ronseal high performance filler,and get a club mate to help you.

[mikec4]

Have a look here ;

http://www.formgriffe.de/en/shpSR.ph...&p2=255&p3=369

and here;

http://www.matchguns.com/sites/defau...uest%20Ing.pdf

for info on grip sizing by Thomas Rink and Cesare Morini (manufacturer of Matchguns) respectively.

I endorse the comments re Rink grips - I have one on my Morini CM 162 which is superb; delivery was as promised with tracking number provided, excellent service and the pound is strong against the Euro at present....

ATB
Mike.

[markkeogh]

Thanks for the reply Mark.

Plan A at the moment is spend a few more weeks working on "me" rather than worry about the gun as much. I'm not out shooting the FAS I'm sure.

I spoke to a dealer north of the border who said they would exchange grips which is terrific but then they said they couldn't export to me,which put the kybosh on that.

I'm thinking a combination of dremel and plastic wood probably to get it perfect.

Cheers
Steve

Hi Steve,
I've just used a whole pack of UHU White Tack (other brands available) on my daughter's grip.
It's the Economy pack about the size of a target and built up the lower face of the grip return above the arch of the thumb and forefinger and built out the piece next to the palm as it was not in contact with the pad of her hand.
It made another improvement in her grouping and grip yet does not destroy the original grip.
Not sure how long it will last but she loves the feel of it and it showed in her grouping and it gives more stability.
All the best
Mark

[Balders]

For local level competitions (or further), are there any restrictions on material for grips/modifications, for example, I have a load of "polymorph" which if you've not heard of it is a kind of plastic that comes in small pellet form, you drop into a cup of boiling water and it becomes mouldable, then sets rock hard at room temperature, and if you simply reheat it you can mould it again. I use it for prototyping parts/making moulds for chip programmers etc. the other option I'm thinking is sugru, which is a mouldable rubber which sets on contact with air (but is one use only).

[silvershooter]

Balders
For local level competitions (or further), are there any restrictions on material for grips/modifications,

No restriction at any level of competition regarding material, but the pistol has to fit in a box 42 cm X 20 Cm X 5 cm and it should not come behind the wrist bone.

[Balders]

I've seen pictures of "wrap around"type grips, I think in "open" category, presumably those are not allowed?

Forgive my ignorance, I'm sponging up as much info from as many sources as I can.

[tufty]

No restriction at any level of competition regarding material, but the pistol has to fit in a box 42 cm X 20 Cm X 5 cm and it should not come behind the wrist bone.

To comply with ISSF rules the material cannot be sticky,so there is restriction,blue tack for instance

[AC99]

For local level competitions (or further), are there any restrictions on material for grips/modifications, for example, I have a load of "polymorph" which if you've not heard of it is a kind of plastic that comes in small pellet form, you drop into a cup of boiling water and it becomes mouldable, then sets rock hard at room temperature, and if you simply reheat it you can mould it again. I use it for prototyping parts/making moulds for chip programmers etc. the other option I'm thinking is sugru, which is a mouldable rubber which sets on contact with air (but is one use only).

I have used 'polymorph' successfully on the Rink grips fitted to my FWB44. It is easy to work with readily removable if you need to start again but, as has been said before it takes a little trial and error to get it right. Available in tubs from Maplins among others.