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Thread: Rekord trigger strip, polish and rebuild

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by FWB124 View Post
    Excellent, just what I wanted to see. If you want to avoid lighting flare from shinny surfaces, like your laminated diagram, try two light sources at 45 degrees to the optical axis of the camera lens.

    Cheers Mike.
    Thanks all for the kind feedback - it's nice to know that people find this stuff helpful
    As for the lighting - I am stuck with the strip lights in the kitchen for now
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  2. #17
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    I have read feedback on another site where someone suggested that I actually covered the process at times with my hands and the videos could stand being re done again with perhaps someone else helping out witht he camera so that I am showing the process all the time....

    What are other peoples' thoughts ??
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  3. #18
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    Thumbs up

    The diagram was blitzed by the light but the rest was easy enough to follow
    them there springer's are soooooo addictive

  4. #19
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    Excellent vids again, Neil.

    Yes, there were a couple of occasions where you were out of shot, but no worries! Would be much easier with a helper, I suppose.

    Do any of the collective feel that there would be any benefit in polishing the sides of the various sears' flat surfaces and rubbing some dry moly powder in for an even smoother operation, or totally unnecessary?

    As you say, Neil, just some very light machine oil for the lube, and small amount at that. Although the V-Mach moly oil seems very good.
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  5. #20
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    Thumbs up

    I'm going to use some spray on moly on the pivot points making sure that the sear contacts are not touched only polished using the autosol .....also bought a new titan spring for the 80 as i don't like the packing under the spring

    Better get an early start in the morning

    Trouble finding a 2mm paralell punch so i'm having to use a centre punch and a pair of long nose pliers
    them there springer's are soooooo addictive

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by joffy View Post

    Trouble finding a 2mm paralell punch so i'm having to use a centre punch and a pair of long nose pliers
    No - the ends of the pins can be swaged so you will need a parallel punch as it may need driving out pretty much all the way. No point spoiling the job for the sake of a cheapo set of punches mate
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  7. #22
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    Thumbs up

    That'll be a trip to toolstation before i get my hands greasy i can also pick up some more brake cleaner too all the other shops round here start at 3mm which is a bit of a bugger
    them there springer's are soooooo addictive

  8. #23
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    Question

    Is it worth using a bit of thread lock on the pins so they stay put or replacing them with drill bit shanks of the correct size (used to do that in my old 1022 trigger) or is that overkill
    them there springer's are soooooo addictive

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by joffy View Post
    Is it worth using a bit of thread lock on the pins so they stay put or replacing them with drill bit shanks of the correct size (used to do that in my old 1022 trigger) or is that overkill
    Overkill I reckon
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  10. #25
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    Thumbs up

    I reckon too but i'll check for straightness just incase i fitted a tr robb setback trigger to one of the trigger units and a straight brass one off the bay of e so it'll be nice to get them both feeling nice
    them there springer's are soooooo addictive

  11. #26
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    The work one the trigger does pay off though. If you notice in the video, there was a ruddy great mark on the adjustable sear where the trigger sits which was probably causing the 'gritty' feel. I spent a bit of time with the stone on that one but I didn't actually totally remove it, - just smoothed it out some. The trigger now is smooth as silk and I know that in the future if I want to work on it some more, there is a little more to be had

    I always like to see a bit of positive results for my efforts
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  12. #27
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    Thumbs up

    Good video Neil, I always thought the rekord trigger to be something to be left to the pros but from your vid and the diagram you used on my iPad (I couldn't quite make yours out) I got it stripped, cleaned polished and with a bit of a struggle with one of the springs I got it back together, so feed back would be that from your video I successfully managed to strip, clean and polish the trigger which I was really happy to do, and anyone sceptical as to whether it's worth it, then I'd have to say I can't believe what some 1200 grit wet and dry can do to make a trigger so smoothe. Well chuffed.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil180 View Post
    As requested

    I have done videos showing how to strip, polish and rebuild a Rekord trigger.

    I had to split it into 2 parts as it was too long to do in one go.

    I am not sure as I am entirely happy with the videos so please let me know what you think and if they are not up to scratch I will have another go at a later date

    https://youtu.be/GFAgEQEPTsM


    https://youtu.be/JLnRnHbHOf8
    Very helpful! well done for taking the time to put the vids together, a big help for me!
    Regards Graham

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cymru-Dave View Post
    Good video Neil, I always thought the rekord trigger to be something to be left to the pros but from your vid and the diagram you used on my iPad (I couldn't quite make yours out) I got it stripped, cleaned polished and with a bit of a struggle with one of the springs I got it back together, so feed back would be that from your video I successfully managed to strip, clean and polish the trigger which I was really happy to do, and anyone sceptical as to whether it's worth it, then I'd have to say I can't believe what some 1200 grit wet and dry can do to make a trigger so smoothe. Well chuffed.
    Outstanding - well done!

    That makes the video worth while for me

    And thanks everyone else for hte positive feedback
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  15. #30
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    I am a little concerned by some feedback I have received. One person who's opinion I respect said that this video missed a couple of things and could be dangerous. Now everyone else who has seen the video has had no concerns over the content although I will admit that the lighting and my video work leaves something to be desired. I would be mortified if I put a video on the web that was dangerous and I am sure that in the video I stressed the importance of keeping the profile of the sears as they are. The process shows only some very brief polishing using the finest of grits etc. The trigger goes back together as it should and works as it should - and I might add that it feels pretty damned smooth! The only thing I didn't show was the final setting of the trigger to my preferred pull etc - so I am stuck as to what I have missed.

    If anyone can give me a bit of a heads up on this I would be most grateful as if I decide that these videos are in any way dangerous they are gone.
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