Webley Jaguar

[pumpygun]

I've an old Webley Jaguar that I'd like to bring back to life at least looks wise.
The stock needs redoing but I'm not sure what oil to use, any suggestions?
Also the metalwork could do with bluing, now that's a new one for me as I've never tried it. Are the bottles you can buy to do it yourself worthwhile?

[oliver13]

The bluing stuff in bottles is pretty poor for finishing a gun, it's difficult to get right - easy to smear & give an uneven coating, & leaves a very delicate coating. a couple of unattended water drops & it's gone plus it's pitted. I forget the actual chemical, Selenium? but it's not traditional iron oxide bluing.
I've gone to town with it a few times & concluded it's only for touching up scratches & doing bolts & such.

The going rate seems to be about £60-80 for a traditional finish for a barrel & compression tube, it's hard to see any profit if you're just moving it along but if it's a keeper then contact one of the people on here that do that sort of thing & see what they want, there's a few.

[Benelli B76]

The bluing stuff in bottles is pretty poor for finishing a gun, it's difficult to get right - easy to smear & give an uneven coating, & leaves a very delicate coating. a couple of unattended water drops & it's gone plus it's pitted. I forget the actual chemical, Selenium? but it's not traditional iron oxide bluing.
I've gone to town with it a few times & concluded it's only for touching up scratches & doing bolts & such.

The going rate seems to be about £60-80 for a traditional finish for a barrel & compression tube, it's hard to see any profit if you're just moving it along but if it's a keeper then contact one of the people on here that do that sort of thing & see what they want, there's a few.

Don't know what chemical blue you are using but I have been cold blueing for 40 years and get excellent results. Best one on the market at the moment is G96 Gun Blue Creme. I use it for different rifles about 3 times a week. Will be an easy job on the tiny Jaguar. Here are before and after pics of a few rifles I did recently. (By the way I have spares for these including the stock.)

Baz













]

[fatttmannn]

Don't know what chemical blue you are using but I have been cold blueing for 40 years and get excellent results. Best one on the market at the moment is G96 Gun Blue Creme. I use it for different rifles about 3 times a week. Will be an easy job on the tiny Jaguar. Here are before and after pics of a few rifles I did recently. (By the way I have spares for these including the stock.)

Baz













]

wish I had your skill and patience Baz, some great results there .

[pumpygun]

Not looking to move it on as they not worth much anyway. Its certainly a keeper, I bought it as a Jaguar was the first air rifle I owned way back in the day. That's the only reason I purchased it. I still like the way the stock sweeps up to the back of the breech, if a full size replica modern rifle was produced I think it would be a nice looking gun.

I'll look into the G96 product, might be worth a try. Any suggestions for the wood? I've chemical stripped and sanded stocks back before both having their advantages and disadvantages. Oilwise I've used various products in the past with varying results, any suggestions appreciated.

[ccdjg]

Any suggestions for the wood? I've chemical stripped and sanded stocks back before both having their advantages and disadvantages. Oilwise I've used various products in the past with varying results, any suggestions appreciated.

I have experimented over the years with various methods for stock finishing, with the objective of producing the look of an oiled finish, without all the hassle, and with greater durability. In particular I wanted a look that showed the natural grain of the wood and didn’t immediately shout “lacquered”. This was my favourite method:

1. Remove all the old finish by sanding, and finish off with steel wool (the steel wool is especially useful for nooks and crannies).

2. Check what the final colour of the natural wood will be by wetting it with solvent, and if necessary stain the wood to the desired colour using a good quality solvent based stain.

3. Using a satin finish clear polyurethane varnish, apply with a cloth, rubbing it in hard, and wipe off as much as you can with a clean cloth. When thoroughly cured rub down with fine steel wool until you are virtually back to the wood.

4. Repeat the process, making sure that the final rubbing down is less vigorous and is done with the finest steel wool, until you get the look that you want.

5. Give it a light polish over with a wax furniture polish.

The nice thing about this sort of finish is that it still feels like wood, and you can oil it if you want.


Here are two examples. The first is a pistol stock made from American walnut, and needed no staining. http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2bbfa723.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psda30c59e.jpg


The second is the beech stock of a 200 year old air rifle that was dead rough and needed reviving but without losing its antique look. After rubbing down I found that the wood required some light staining as the wood had become bleached with age. http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psoqc98a3s.jpg

[Shed tuner]

Don't know what chemical blue you are using but I have been cold blueing for 40 years and get excellent results. Best one on the market at the moment is G96 Gun Blue Creme. I use it for different rifles about 3 times a week. Will be an easy job on the tiny Jaguar. Here are before and after pics of a few rifles I did recently. (By the way I have spares for these including the stock.)

Baz













]

Awesome results.. any tips on prep / application etc ?

[Benelli B76]

Jon, initial preparation depends on the condition of the steel. If it has light powdery rust or is in the white, just rub it over with fine wire wool and a light oil or a penetrating oil. The rust can then be wiped off with a rag. You must thoroughly degrease the metal afterwards. I use cellulose thinners, but in the past I have even used washing up liquid and hot water. When the metal is degreased, you can warm it very slightly with a blowlamp or a hairdryer. Do not warm it too much you must be able to touch it. Dab a clean rough cloth in the G96 "Creme" and rub it on the metal and it will immediately turn black. The harder the steel the more lighter blue colour you will get. After a couple of minutes wash all the chemical off with water and dry and wipe with oil. If you heat the metal too much the creme will solidify and become like powder making it hard to spread. If the metal is pitted I like using an abrasive flap wheel with an fine grit that does not bite into the metal too much. I then use progressively finer grits and polish to get a shiny finish before applying the G96.

Baz

[oliver13]

Don't know what chemical blue you are using but I have been cold blueing for 40 years and get excellent results. Best one on the market at the moment is G96 Gun Blue Creme. I use it for different rifles about 3 times a week. Will be an easy job on the tiny Jaguar. Here are before and after pics of a few rifles I did recently. (By the way I have spares for these including the stock.)

Baz













]

Point taken, it was a long time ago, I should catch up a bit. That G96 looks like good stuff.

[Benelli B76]

Point taken, it was a long time ago, I should catch up a bit. That G96 looks like good stuff.

Oliver, if you try it I think you will be pleased with the results and how much surface you can blue with a small amount of the paste. I have had guys PM me about the nice jobs they have managed to accomplish.

Regards, Baz

[Shed tuner]

Thanks Baz...

[AC99]

I never managed to achieve that sort of finish with G96 which now after 10 years or so seems to have solidified into small crystals (maybe I should have secured the container better!)
Perhaps better results would have achieved by warming/heating the substrate. I will have to try that next time.