Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 60

Thread: HW100 bullpup

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    bridgend
    Posts
    47
    hi mark
    i made the mount to take the picatiny rail that i bought of a well known action site
    yes i like the look of the long forend and it also gives a more normal hold
    chris

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mirfield
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by riku View Post
    Stainless steel is really hard to thread and you want threads at the ends for adjustability. I've used M4 thread bar in my bullpups and it's stiff enough. You need to DIY the end forks though, a piece of aluminium works great for that:

    Very nice, the linkage looks like what i had in mind, great job, nice to see people making their own rather than buying kits.
    Regards, Mark.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mirfield
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by walton8684 View Post
    hi mark
    i made the mount to take the picatiny rail that i bought of a well known action site
    yes i like the look of the long forend and it also gives a more normal hold
    chris
    One of the nicest ive seen. Reminds me of the Impact airguns gsx with the long forend.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Burnley
    Posts
    1,011
    How long did it take to dry the wood and what method did you use.cheers Waisted

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mirfield
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by Waisted View Post
    How long did it take to dry the wood and what method did you use.cheers Waisted
    Hi, the wood came from a dead branch brought down by high winds and was already dry, i just cut a piece from it, i chose to cut where the branch bisected into another branch as that makes for some interesting grain patterns. From the branch i cut a couple of planks and set to work, all in the same day, so choose dead wood recently fallen and no need to wait for it to dry.
    Regards, Mark.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Burnley
    Posts
    1,011
    Thanks for the reply butts, I was curious because on your photos it looked like you had used raw wood. As it was all ready dead then it might be alright bye the way I like your work very original.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mirfield
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by Waisted View Post
    Thanks for the reply butts, I was curious because on your photos it looked like you had used raw wood. As it was all ready dead then it might be alright bye the way I like your work very original.
    Judging by the amount of lead shot i found while working with the wood it was long dead before it hit the ground.
    Butts, lol.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brentwood, Essex....God's Country!
    Posts
    366
    Your local radio controlled model shop, will have pushrods and clevises, ready threaded and made for an application very similar to pushing the triger back without any extra play or slackness.

    Check those out

    Ouch!
    Ouch!
    Barn Door Scarer
    HW95k .22, HW50s .22, BSA Goldstar SE .177, AA 510 Ult Sporter .177

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mirfield
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by Ouch! View Post
    Your local radio controlled model shop, will have pushrods and clevises, ready threaded and made for an application very similar to pushing the triger back without any extra play or slackness.

    Check those out

    Ouch!
    Cheers, i will

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Tampere
    Posts
    446
    Quote Originally Posted by Ouch! View Post
    Your local radio controlled model shop, will have pushrods and clevises, ready threaded and made for an application very similar to pushing the triger back without any extra play or slackness.

    Check those out

    Ouch!

    They use M3 threads and a M3 linkage (thread bar or straight bar) will flex too much with heavy hammer springs to give a good trigger feel. Been there tried that. Now a pull type linkage would work but it requires much more modifications for the trigger group.
    Viking Mk2 .177/.22 bullpup, BSA Scorpion SE .177, BSA Scorpion .25 100M gun, BSA Scorpion .224 100fpe 100M gun,
    Evanix Blizzard .257/.357 200M BR, Evanix Sniper X2 .45 at 270 fpe

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mirfield
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by riku View Post
    They use M3 threads and a M3 linkage (thread bar or straight bar) will flex too much with heavy hammer springs to give a good trigger feel. Been there tried that. Now a pull type linkage would work but it requires much more modifications for the trigger group.
    The trigger on the HW is very light. Well on mine anyway.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    bridgend
    Posts
    47
    hi guys
    i have asembled all the bits and givern the stock a coat of stain and the first coat of oil ready to try out tomorrow
    if all ok i will strip it down and get ali pieces anodised black and finish oiling the stock
    its starting to look nice if i do say so my self
    https://flic.kr/p/tYDBZn
    https://flic.kr/p/uD3CDF
    chris

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mirfield
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by walton8684 View Post
    hi guys
    i have asembled all the bits and givern the stock a coat of stain and the first coat of oil ready to try out tomorrow
    if all ok i will strip it down and get ali pieces anodised black and finish oiling the stock
    its starting to look nice if i do say so my self
    https://flic.kr/p/tYDBZn
    https://flic.kr/p/uD3CDF
    chris
    Like i said, one of the nicest i've seen.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    dewsbury
    Posts
    677

    realy nice job

    well done chris.looking forward to how it shoots.trigger mech etc.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Tampere
    Posts
    446
    Quote Originally Posted by buttloaves View Post
    The trigger on the HW is very light. Well on mine anyway.
    It could work with very light trigger, the issues I had were with my Blizzard and it has fairly stiff hammer spring pushing against the sear to provide that 220 fpe.
    Viking Mk2 .177/.22 bullpup, BSA Scorpion SE .177, BSA Scorpion .25 100M gun, BSA Scorpion .224 100fpe 100M gun,
    Evanix Blizzard .257/.357 200M BR, Evanix Sniper X2 .45 at 270 fpe

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •