that's a nice stock,and adding small amount of boiled linseed rubbed in by hand will eventually bring it up.takes time that way and you will get plenty of advice that is conflicting. a mix of linseed and japan driers will speed things up.atb
I'd like to get a more polished finish, what's the best approach?
Stock as it is
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that's a nice stock,and adding small amount of boiled linseed rubbed in by hand will eventually bring it up.takes time that way and you will get plenty of advice that is conflicting. a mix of linseed and japan driers will speed things up.atb
That looks very nice as it is, have you seen a stock like yours with the desired finish, you may change your mind once you see it..I use the easy way, aerosol satin varnish and i love the waxy feel and amber stain it gives the wood, but i don't know how you would get on putting it on top of an oiled stock, the stuff i use is plastikote, very hard wearing and covers most stuff. And no brush marks or runs
Tru oil is effectively a liquid lacquer that you rub on by hand. Shiny stuff if you leave it 'as is'
I've finished my ProSport with a walnut oil preparation from Phillips.
It take quite some time - over a week with the stock off, giving a coat once a day, then one a week for a while........But the result was fantastic! and the smell is brilliant every time you raise the stock to your face to shoot.
Cheers
Steve
I finished my Prosport with multiple coats of Ruskins Teak oil. Once the wood has taken up enough of the finish it can be polished to a high gloss shine if that what you like.
Without Honour, You Are Nothing.
Rustins. "No other" Danish oil.
Put it on sloppy, lots of it, rub it well in. I do it with my hands.
THEN WITHIN A FEW MINUTES WIPE IT ALL OFF. Brush it out of the chequering.
Do this every couple of days and stop when it's shiny enough.
You are prob about to receive 100 more suggestions.
When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!
Thanks for the comments, definitely going to do lots of research as I don't want to mess it up.
I have re-finished a few stocks (after stripping back to bare timber) with a spirit or water based stain followed by numerous coats, maybe 10 or so, of Danish oil and the end result has been very good. The Oil gradually builds up to a deep gloss. I did my 77 stock a few years ago and it still looks as good as ever. But it does take time ...
I am now considering using a combined stain plus varnish type product, not sure which, that allows natural grain pattern to show through next as it may be less hassle. I have used several such types on various other wooden items and found the end result to be excellent and hard wearing. And, of course, if the odd scratch appears it can be easily repaired. Maybe this is what some may call 'sacrilege' in that it goes against oiling and lavishing loads of love and attention on your loved stock. But I am really wondering if the end result would be different to a well applied Danish oil finish. Still, not tried it yet and I may well change my mind when the time comes.
Cheers, Phil
I would research that a little more.
Not wishing to scare monger or pass on wives tales, but Teak Oil is widely reputed to be Carcinogenic , among those who use it a lot.
There may be little truth in it, however, i have heard enough people make the comment for it to have stuck in my Grey Matter.
Cheers.
Dance like no one is watching.
Sing like no one can hear.
Scratch yourself like you think the zoom meeting has ended.
I have tried many different products and one stands out A MILE from all the rest. Back in the 1980s I was working at Leslie Hewett who were the Perazzi importers. The boss wanted to offer a proper oil finish for the SC3 and SC0 grade guns, so a colleague and I were dispatched to Clive Lemon gunsmiths (then in Redditch) to learn how to use his "CCL conditioning oil".
Fear not, it's actually very easy to use. First any polyurethane has to be stripped completely (The Perazzi stocks in those days were sprayed with layers of the stuff). Then start applying the oil with your fingers, no need for grainfiller, the oil will fill the grain itself. The trick is once applied rub in with the heel of your hand to generate friction/heat and keep going. Leave for 24 hours and do the same again and you will start to build a beautiful classic English oil finish. You'll get a decent finish after a few applications but carry on untilll you have the finish you require.
If the finish gets scuffed another few drops worked into the blemish will restore the original beauty.
I fully agree. This is great stuff and gives excellent results with ease. Wouldn't use any straight oils any longer as this for me the best balance between quality of finish and speed/ease of use.
Linseed/walnut/teak oils take yonks to 'work' in my experience, and haven't given a better finish.
Another vote here for CCL conditioning oil. Great stuff.
What do you find is the best way to get a matt or satin finish with CCL.