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Thread: Trigger linkage

  1. #1
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    Trigger linkage

    A couple of pics of the bullpup trigger linkage, still needs a bit of work, maybe run it through another cylinder band
    might make a guide or two, its a couple of bicycle spokes.



  2. #2
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    What's it like for "give" at the two bends? Can you solder a web on the inside of the bend, to take out some of the potential flexing?
    www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    What's it like for "give" at the two bends? Can you solder a web on the inside of the bend, to take out some of the potential flexing?
    You read my mind, until all the guides are fitted (i hope to support the rod in 3 places) weather i will need to brace the bends, the trigger is light, supporting the rod with my fingers and pushing against the trigger the rod doesn't flex at all,i can push the trigger all the way back, surprising as the rod is only 2.5mm thick. I want to keep it as simple as possible..

  4. #4
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    Sometimes the best designs are the simplest - I trust the linkage won't foul on the cylinder-stock interface?

    JB
    Never eat yellow snow
    ---------------------------------------------------------

  5. #5
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    With the linkage attached to the tip of the trigger you will get a lot of travel in the first stage, especially if the pivot for the slave / forward trigger is above the fixing point of the link rod.


    Hth

    Wwwdot
    Bsa R10 Mk2 .177, Theoben Evolution .177 CS800, TX200HC .177, HW100T .177 Bullpup, Airwolf MVT .177, Ray Neale Titanium JIm Vickers stock .177

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwwdot View Post
    With the linkage attached to the tip of the trigger you will get a lot of travel in the first stage, especially if the pivot for the slave / forward trigger is above the fixing point of the link rod.


    Hth

    Wwwdot
    The rod is the trigger, no pivot, the rod will just slide back and push the trigger proper..

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by krazy_horse View Post
    Sometimes the best designs are the simplest - I trust the linkage won't foul on the cylinder-stock interface?

    JB
    I have a channel cut into the stock to acomodate it..

  8. #8
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    looking good mate

    i think i may be more excited than you for the end result.lol

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by j rayner View Post
    i think i may be more excited than you for the end result.lol
    Calm down, have a cup of tea

  10. #10
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    I know you were after something simple, but I was having a think how to get rid of those reverse bends in the spoke.

    I tried having one simple toggle lever but the movement would be reversed, I mean, pulling the trigger at the finger end would push the actual blade forwards and not back; too difficult.

    Here's a concept idea; the green fulcrum points would need to be supported by a bracket fixed with the screws that hold the trigger guard on.

    www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    I know you were after something simple, but I was having a think how to get rid of those reverse bends in the spoke.

    I tried having one simple toggle lever but the movement would be reversed, I mean, pulling the trigger at the finger end would push the actual blade forwards and not back; too difficult.

    Here's a concept idea; the green fulcrum points would need to be supported by a bracket fixed with the screws that hold the trigger guard on.

    Look's complicated, why not do away with the two pivot levers and just use a continuous rod like i have if supported correctly it wont flex.



    The only pivot in this set up is the factory trigger, if your're worried about flex use thicker rod..

  12. #12
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    ha ha

    Quote Originally Posted by buttloaves View Post
    Calm down, have a cup of tea
    the kettle is on mate.is it finished yet no rush like,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,well,,,,,,, ,,,,,

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    I know you were after something simple, but I was having a think how to get rid of those reverse bends in the spoke.

    I tried having one simple toggle lever but the movement would be reversed, I mean, pulling the trigger at the finger end would push the actual blade forwards and not back; too difficult.

    Here's a concept idea; the green fulcrum points would need to be supported by a bracket fixed with the screws that hold the trigger guard on.

    Agreed - this would be too complex. You would also have to introduce springs to ensure the pivoting linkages would return to their original positions.

    Again this would interfere with the stages of the trigger and weight of pull.

    JB
    Never eat yellow snow
    ---------------------------------------------------------

  14. #14
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    Yes I agree. It was just a thought as to how to avoid the springiness that will be introduced if the bent spoke flexes at either of the bends. If we want to keep the weight down and use thin spokes, the stiffness will become an issue. This could be minimised by making the bends as open as possible so that the spoke is on the line of force, as near as can be. Or, as suggested, introduce a gusset brace.

    Maybe the best solution for a bullpup trigger anyway is to go electrical, and fire by wire. I've always thought the Airwolf was a prime candidate for pupping.
    www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    Yes I agree. It was just a thought as to how to avoid the springiness that will be introduced if the bent spoke flexes at either of the bends. If we want to keep the weight down and use thin spokes, the stiffness will become an issue. This could be minimised by making the bends as open as possible so that the spoke is on the line of force, as near as can be. Or, as suggested, introduce a gusset brace.

    Maybe the best solution for a bullpup trigger anyway is to go electrical, and fire by wire. I've always thought the Airwolf was a prime candidate for pupping.
    Fire by wire is a good solution, avoids all the linkage problems, i may have a go once this is sorted, im waiting for cylinder bands at the moment then i can finish it, oh then there's the scope rail to sort out, ill get there eventually..

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