http://www./itm/Moore-and-Wright-M11...YAAOSwBLlU-gaF aboslute zero facility too..
If you want real accuracy get a micrometer.
Digital calipers of whatever price are prone to human error if you want a perfect reading so save your money and get a perfectly acceptable cheap set from Lidl etc and if they do go tits up buy another for not very much.
Might invest in one myself
I've had two sets of calipers from Aldi lasted 6 months and got through several batteries. i bought a reasonably modest set of Moore and Wright ones for about £30 and they are amazing by comparison, certainly good and accurate and reproducable for most reloading uses in my experience and only used one battery in a year.
Optomist
my calipers from Lidl are still on the original battery 5 years on! although I follow the instructions and remove the battery when not in use, they only get used 1/2 dozen occasions a year so no point allowing the battery to drain (and they always do) if I used them every day I would spend a lot more money on them and expect to replace batteries regularly, but I don't so there
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I find the cheapos are accurate +/- one to 1.5 thou versus a mitutoyo micrometer. So those reading to 1/2 thou are a bit optimistic.
They are always on, switching them off only blanks the display. I used to use the cheapo batteries from Poundland but they only last a short time. Buy good ones from a watch shop (I'm going to use silver oxide next time to see if they last longer).
I also find that if the caliper gets damp (unheated garage) they go crazy and become a randon number generator.
Yep, that's the model I have, and it agrees with my Mitutoyo mic to the nearest 0.0005" on every trial I've made.
It's good enough for 95% of what I do, and has been my gauging workhorse for about a year now.
What's also nice is that inside and outside jaws agree, too - a 25,00 shaft fits a 25,02 bore just as tightly as I'd expect.
Apart from the display going a bit dim, it also works in a freezing outside workshop.
I've once needed to adjust the vee-setting screws to take up a bit of play I noticed.
Regards,
MikB
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I picked up a cheap digital calliper when I first started reloading but over time noticed a variation of around 5 thou on occasion randomly between uses. I picked up on it because of a reference round that I had loaded to set seating dies for mature loads. I would measure the length to the ogive each time and make a note of it as I was paranoid that screwing the seating stem of the die in too hard would make the referee bullet shorter over time. I found that the length did vary occasionally but always by 5 thou in one direction or the other. It may have been rf interference, it may have been poor circuit desiGn leading to variable zero, sensitivity to battery voltage, I don't know in short.
i ordered a mitutoyo dial calliper and have not seen any variance in the reference rounds since.
i vote for non electronic calliper for reliability and repeatability.
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If I'm doing work on the Lathe that requires an accurate fit I use a Micrometer. For most of my work a 0-25mm is used but I do have a 25-50 as well. You can get good makes on the bay for little cost these days. I got an unused Mitutoyo a couple of years back for about £20.
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I love the old English made Engineer's Micrometers such as those made by Moore & Wright. Frankly being given away on fleabay at times. Best of British and bloody fabulous. Stink of that days of our best times, I am starting to collect tem in their own right !
Had 2 new digital sets, tbh they didn't last long, but I did spend less than £20.
A 'V-Angle' Micrometer would be handy if you wish to measure bore-slugs that that have odd number of groove-land, eg 5
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I would have said the opposite - its harder to mess up reading a digital display than it is reading an 'analogue' vernier or micrometer.
As to whether to use a micrometer or a caliper, its very much horses for courses. I regularly use both to 0,01 mm./0.0005 inch - often checking one with the other.
Happy Shooting!! Paul.
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