BSA Challenger - Advice please....

[SRV1]

Hi joffy....

Many thanks for some positive news on this saga. I look forward to sticking it in then, because pulling it out was a messy business, even compressing the bloody thing....wonderful...

[look no hands]

Hi Jon....

I am a bit slow typing, my last reply was too slow to appreciate your last post. Thank you for the heads up regarding the Mercury cylinder up for grabs. Please, does anyone know if the Mercury cylinder would be a direct swap? I don't need the Maxgrip as I shoot open, and after doing battle with it, I am happy to see it go. Is the Mercury breech pivot a pin, or, a bolt like the Challenger? Any other?

Best regards...

There was two types of Mercury cylinder, the early ones (mk1 & 2) had a one piece cocking lever and the cylinder had the front mounting screw bracket bolted to the cylinder with one bolt in the middle, they also had pins to mount the barrel onto, the later mk3, 4 and Challengers had the bracket bolted to the cylinder which holds the articulated 2 piece cocking linkage to the rifle, the barrel is also held on with a bolt and a slotted nut, as long as it's the later type cylinder then it should fit with out any problems, the only other problem you are going to have is the trigger block will be higher than the cylinder, so you will need a standard Mercury trigger block, the Challenger piston has a slot on top to miss the maxigrip rail but will work in a Mercury cylinder (but a Mercury piston won't fit in a Challenger cylinder as it will collide with the maxigrip rail)

If you do get the standard Mercury cylinder then let me know as I have a spare Mercury trigger block I'm happy to part with.

Cheers

Pete

Ps I've just checked said cylinder on the bay of evil and it looks like an early one, which won't be any good for you.

[QUIGLEY]

It might be that you can get the cylinder repaired and reblued.
It would be a shame to lose an original Challenger
Edd.

[piggy589]

It might be that you can get the cylinder repaired and reblued.
It would be a shame to lose an original Challenger
Edd.

Amen to that.

You'd be surprised what the right man a brazing rod and a fifteen tip can do.

[QUIGLEY]

Amen to that.

You'd be surprised what the right man a brazing rod and a fifteen tip can do.

Well it's always nice to save something from the brink isn't it.
Edd.

[derekj]

Hi All....

Forgot to apologise to all readers and contributors for this continuing saga. It may run longer than Agatha Christie's "The Mousetrap" in London's West End, I think in its 64th year?

Sorry, sorry, sorry.....

There really is no need to apologise. I am thoroughly enjoying the suspense, coupled with a sense of worry and anxiety.

[QUIGLEY]

There was two types of Mercury cylinder, the early ones (mk1 & 2) had a one piece cocking lever and the cylinder had the front mounting screw bracket bolted to the cylinder with one bolt in the middle, they also had pins to mount the barrel onto, the later mk3, 4 and Challengers had the bracket bolted to the cylinder which holds the articulated 2 piece cocking linkage to the rifle, the barrel is also held on with a bolt and a slotted nut, as long as it's the later type cylinder then it should fit with out any problems, the only other problem you are going to have is the trigger block will be higher than the cylinder, so you will need a standard Mercury trigger block, the Challenger piston has a slot on top to miss the maxigrip rail but will work in a Mercury cylinder (but a Mercury piston won't fit in a Challenger cylinder as it will collide with the maxigrip rail)

If you do get the standard Mercury cylinder then let me know as I have a spare Mercury trigger block I'm happy to part with.

Cheers

Pete

Ps I've just checked said cylinder on the bay of evil and it looks like an early one, which won't be any good for you.

You could upgrade the early Mercury cylinder by getting it machined to take the barrel pivot bolt and the articulated cocking link stirrup if you were totally stuck.
Edd.

[look no hands]

You could upgrade the early Mercury cylinder by getting it machined to take the barrel pivot bolt and the articulated cocking link stirrup if you were totally stuck.
Edd.

Very true but how much would that sort of work cost to do?

I agree the Challenger should be saved and hopefully kept as original as possible (although I do have a Challenger/Mercury hybrid in my collection)

Pete

[SRV1]

Many thanks again in taking your time for all replies....hope the chips didn't get cold. This Forum lark is more interesting than some some of the Biased Broadcasting Corporation dramas - I don't understand them any more, radio or television, may be I am too old?

Thank you "look no hands" for your offer of a Mercury trigger block, I already have one as a spare, thank you again. I sincerely hope that your condition is not related to a air rifle breech incident?

Lots and lots to think about, but, the Challenger will remain intact, no cross breeding here, how could I think of such a mongrel and destroying pure linage...I am sorry, I am sorry..on the other hand, a cross between an Airsporter, a Relum and Gamo could be a Challenge?

Brazing and bluing is the way forward....

Thank you all, will be in touch in the future as this project is low priority at the moment.....

All the best for now....

[look no hands]

Thank you "look no hands" for your offer of a Mercury trigger block, I already have one as a spare, thank you again.

Brazing and bluing is the way forward.

No problem mate, happy to try and help another Challenger owner.

Wouldn't an industrial engineering grade thread loc not seal and secure the breech area? instead of brazing.

Pete

[edbear2]

No problem mate, happy to try and help another Challenger owner.

Wouldn't an industrial engineering grade thread loc not seal and secure the breech area? instead of brazing.

Pete

I have used this remedy on prewar stuff where the breech section and cylinder are threaded, would personally say it was pushing it to bond a Merc if just a slip fit, as a break barrel action is harder on this area in terms of strain.IMHO

If brazing a gas fluxer unit would be handy, or a fluxed and granulated braze set up to ensure good wetting as you don't want to be hanging around and getting the cylinder too hot.

Were the originals induction brazed??

ATB, Ed

[maximus]

Hi mate. If I were you I would re- assemble without fitting the Maxi grip and give it a try. If the breech jaws were difficult to move back I doubt it will come off in use. You can then check the power which should give you an indication if it is leaking. A challenger should make 10.5ft lbs at least with a std spring. If low powered some loktite could be used to seal the cylinder.

[SRV1]

Hi maximus,
When I get a chance, I will give your suggestion a go. I could safely and carefully clamp the Challenger in the old Workmate, a bit of string on the trigger and fire it in a safe area. It would be interesting to see if the breech section departs from the cylinder. If it looks sound, I'll make sure by getting my wife to put 5 tins of pellets through it........

All the best .....

[deejayuu]

Hi maximus,
When I get a chance, I will give your suggestion a go. I could safely and carefully clamp the Challenger in the old Workmate, a bit of string on the trigger and fire it in a safe area. It would be interesting to see if the breech section departs from the cylinder. If it looks sound, I'll make sure by getting my wife to put 5 tins of pellets through it........

All the best .....

Luv it SRV1. I reckon your good lady would do the maths first and come up with the force/distance travel of the breech
and barrel then stand in front to catch it bare handed.
Hang on sounds like a good Newtonian homework question for our grandson!!
Good luck.