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Thread: Washing your pellets

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Dursley
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    2,745
    There is much to be recommended for washing pellets and treating them carefully. I don't hold with the idea of tipping them all out at once into a cleaning solution, but rather I do them one at a time whilst wearing surgical gloves (a) to avoid the possibility of corrosive skin products affecting the surface of the pellet and (b) to avoid the risk of picking up any germs from the people who made and packaged the pellets.
    A rinse in acetone followed by a polish with warm beeswax imparts a healthy lustre to each pellet, but one should always take care to ensure that the area inside the pellet skirt is clean in order to avoid possible imbalance of the pellet inflight. Easy enough on .22 pellets (I use cotton buds for this, one per pellet) but on .20 and .177 pellets I have found that feathers from a pillow, when attached to a wooden cocktail stick, are ideal for dealing with the smaller area.
    I've been doing this for the past ninety-five years and have not yet managed to miss a barn door at ten yards, so for me yes - washing pellets is most worthwhile and to be recommended to anyone who wishes to extract the best performance from their Webley Junior.

  2. #2
    Silver Captain Guest
    I was considering it but after much reading I have decided not to, just take good care of them to ensure they are not misshaped through bad handling.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Monmouth, Land of Wales.
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    14,441
    Quote Originally Posted by severnsider View Post
    There is much to be recommended for washing pellets and treating them carefully. I don't hold with the idea of tipping them all out at once into a cleaning solution, but rather I do them one at a time whilst wearing surgical gloves (a) to avoid the possibility of corrosive skin products affecting the surface of the pellet and (b) to avoid the risk of picking up any germs from the people who made and packaged the pellets.
    A rinse in acetone followed by a polish with warm beeswax imparts a healthy lustre to each pellet, but one should always take care to ensure that the area inside the pellet skirt is clean in order to avoid possible imbalance of the pellet inflight. Easy enough on .22 pellets (I use cotton buds for this, one per pellet) but on .20 and .177 pellets I have found that feathers from a pillow, when attached to a wooden cocktail stick, are ideal for dealing with the smaller area.
    I've been doing this for the past ninety-five years and have not yet managed to miss a barn door at ten yards, so for me yes - washing pellets is most worthwhile and to be recommended to anyone who wishes to extract the best performance from their Webley Junior.
    This ^^^^^.

    Plus, a great way to store them is on pallets. One pellet per pallet. In a 'balanced enviroment' temperature controlled warehouse.

    On the other extreme, olympic standard match-target shooters mostly use them straight from the tin.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Retford, Notts
    Posts
    35,243
    Quote Originally Posted by severnsider View Post
    There is much to be recommended for washing pellets and treating them carefully. I don't hold with the idea of tipping them all out at once into a cleaning solution, but rather I do them one at a time whilst wearing surgical gloves (a) to avoid the possibility of corrosive skin products affecting the surface of the pellet and (b) to avoid the risk of picking up any germs from the people who made and packaged the pellets.
    A rinse in acetone followed by a polish with warm beeswax imparts a healthy lustre to each pellet, but one should always take care to ensure that the area inside the pellet skirt is clean in order to avoid possible imbalance of the pellet inflight. Easy enough on .22 pellets (I use cotton buds for this, one per pellet) but on .20 and .177 pellets I have found that feathers from a pillow, when attached to a wooden cocktail stick, are ideal for dealing with the smaller area.
    I've been doing this for the past ninety-five years and have not yet managed to miss a barn door at ten yards, so for me yes - washing pellets is most worthwhile and to be recommended to anyone who wishes to extract the best performance from their Webley Junior.

    Did you start drinking especially early today then, Mike??
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    manchester
    Posts
    7,674
    Quote Originally Posted by severnsider View Post
    There is much to be recommended for washing pellets and treating them carefully. I don't hold with the idea of tipping them all out at once into a cleaning solution, but rather I do them one at a time whilst wearing surgical gloves (a) to avoid the possibility of corrosive skin products affecting the surface of the pellet and (b) to avoid the risk of picking up any germs from the people who made and packaged the pellets.
    A rinse in acetone followed by a polish with warm beeswax imparts a healthy lustre to each pellet, but one should always take care to ensure that the area inside the pellet skirt is clean in order to avoid possible imbalance of the pellet inflight. Easy enough on .22 pellets (I use cotton buds for this, one per pellet) but on .20 and .177 pellets I have found that feathers from a pillow, when attached to a wooden cocktail stick, are ideal for dealing with the smaller area.
    I've been doing this for the past ninety-five years and have not yet managed to miss a barn door at ten yards, so for me yes - washing pellets is most worthwhile and to be recommended to anyone who wishes to extract the best performance from their Webley Junior.
    This will not do. You forgot to irradiate them with Neutron beam, if you do not do this the pellets will not have two heads. One @ 4.52 and the other @ 4.53mm.

    A.G

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yeovil/Moreton in Marsh
    Posts
    12,908
    Quote Originally Posted by lensman57 View Post
    On the odd occasion that I do wash the pellets, I just leave them in the Ultra Sonic cleaner with warm water and a drop of house hold washing up liquid. The residue is mostly a small amount of metal shavings . I have stopped lubing them a while ago as I found no advantage in my PCPs and Dieseling and inconsistency in my springers. If they go through with the legislation and ban Lead then we might have to look into alternative ways of lubing as Lead itself is one of the best lubricant metals available but I doubt that Tin has this property.

    A.G
    Might be worth examining pre and post utrasonic bathed pellets. My inderstanding that ultrasound can cause pitting in lead.
    In a battle of wits I refuse to engage with an unarmed person.
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