Another lubed wad question (sorry)

[Renegade Master]

Hi Guys,

Having sent my FAC off for variation and putting down a deposit on an Uberti NMA my attention has now turned to the plethora of "other bits" I also need to start getting.

With this in mind I have over the past couple of days been combing all the threads in this section (60 odd pages worth!) and a lot of the threads relate to lubed wads. Now I like the idea of using a lubed wad in terms of ease of use and benefits to fouling, and I already have many of the ingredients to make the lube (paraffin wax, beeswax, Trex, etc).

However, one thing I haven't seen asked is, is there any chance of contaminating the powder with the lube? I'm really thinking in the warmer weather when there is possibly the chance the lube may soften to the point it becomes semi-liquid again.

This may be a very stupid question, but as a newbie I thought it best to ask.

Cheers,

Dan

[enfield2band]

Hi Guys,

Having sent my FAC off for variation and putting down a deposit on an Uberti NMA my attention has now turned to the plethora of "other bits" I also need to start getting.

With this in mind I have over the past couple of days been combing all the threads in this section (60 odd pages worth!) and a lot of the threads relate to lubed wads. Now I like the idea of using a lubed wad in terms of ease of use and benefits to fouling, and I already have many of the ingredients to make the lube (paraffin wax, beeswax, Trex, etc).

However, one thing I haven't seen asked is, is there any chance of contaminating the powder with the lube? I'm really thinking in the warmer weather when there is possibly the chance the lube may soften to the point it becomes semi-liquid again.

This may be a very stupid question, but as a newbie I thought it best to ask.

Cheers,

Dan

Hi,

Don't apologise for asking a question. The whole point of this forum is about sharing information and helping each other when we can.

You have a valid point about the lube affecting the powder in hot weather. In winter I use more tallow on my patches because the cold makes the beeswax harden. In Summer the tallow melts easily so I increase the amount of beeswax. The same would appliy to lubed wads.

In winter I use 5 parts tallow to 1 part beeswax. In summer I use 3 parts tallow to 1 part beeswax. If you use that as a guide you should not be far out,but experiment and see what suits you the best. I sometimes vary the tallow/beeswax ratio if I think I need to.

Atb

[Renegade Master]

Fantastic, thanks for that. So by varying the ratios I can adjust for temperature. Good information, cheers.

[tacfoley]

I can see the appeal of making wads, given the ridiculous price of the Wonder Wads here in yUK, but just to say that in almost fifty years of shooting BP revolvers, I've never used them at all - just as the originals didn't either.

The only wads I use are in BP rifles.

tac

[Renegade Master]

Hey Tac,

So out of interest, how do you lube? I think I read one of your posts where you said you use E45 cream, so is that over the ball, or between ball & filler?

Cheers,

Dan

[tacfoley]

Hey Tac,

So out of interest, how do you lube? I think I read one of your posts where you said you use E45 cream, so is that over the ball, or between ball & filler?

Cheers,

Dan

The last time I load, I fill the end of the chamber with E45, and it clears out most of the crud from previous shots. As it is water soluble, it disappears in the clean up, taking most of the crud with it. In what passes for colder weather here - around 5 degrees of 0, I use it on my .58cal muzzleloading carbine, just smeared around the grooves.

It's not a good idea to use any form of lube between the powder and the ball, or filler, and I don't use any kind of filler either.

Hope that helps.

tac