Registered User
I have just modded my HW 35 E to accept a Venom plastic (green colour) washer.
When I got the rifle it still had the leather washer fitted but was also deiselling heavily.
I modified the front of the piston on a lathe to accept the Venom washer, and managed to gain a little more swept volume in the process.
I seem to remember being advised years ago not to use silicon oil on this type of washer, although a "smidgin" of moly grease would be OK.
I have assembled the rifle (taking care) and used a smidgin (tiny smear) of moly on the outside of the washer, and the rifle is still deiseling
I took care to clean the inside of the cylinder with meths when I stripped the gun, which was left overnight to dry off.
What material is the Venom washer made from? and why can't you use silicon oil (a drop smeared around the outside) as I do with other plastic type washers ? Any advice would be appreciated.
Paul
If it's still dieseling you must have grease in front of it.
How well does the seal fit is it tight or loose?
How badly is it dieseling, will a dozen or so shots clear it?
Failing that you will have to strip, clean and reassemble
I found just putting the grease in the groove round the outside of the seal, avoiding the front edge altogether, does the trick. The piston moving up and down should spread it out.
They all smoke no matterhow carefull you are. Shoot some heavy pellets and it should settle. If the seal is a suction fit ie. when you put your finger over transfer port and stroke it, then all should go well. Moly is all you use and maybe a drop of SM50.
Registered User
Thanks for the advice guys. The washer is a fairly tight fit in the bore. By tight I mean you need a screwdriver in order to overcome the initial resistance and push the piston along the bore with the end block removed -although it moves no bother when breaking the barrel.The washer I am using was part of a stage 1 kit for an 80 I picked up on this bbs 2nd hand. The 80 and 35 have the same bore diameter, although the 80 has a much longer stroke and therefore swept volume.
I have put arround 30 shots through it and it still diesels as bad as the first shot. I applied my tiny amount of moly to the circumferance of the washer only - the front of the washer was cleaned carefully and I'm sure no grease got to it.
I will try putting another 50 or so shots through it and see if there is any improvement - if not I will be stripping it and I will try sizing the washer down for a better fit.I may also take a coil or two off the mainspring to reduce recoil, but obviously, it would be nice to find out what ME I'm getting without dieseling prior to lopping coils of the spring (27 coils at the moment)
I am aiming for a nice smooth 10 - 11ft/lb (it's .177). I will be happy if I manage this.
Paul.
Originally Posted by shrendi
Shrendi, I'm going to have to disagree with you on that one.
I've had my 35 apart and together a LOT this year. The first few times I did it, it did smoke a bit but now, with all the practice, it is a relatively simple task to get it back together with no dieseling, even on the first shot
Lucky you, i always get at the least some blue haze and often a nats fags worth for the first twenty pellets.
Registered User
I have to agree with Euan, I stripped and relubed my '35 last night and it doesn't diesel at all, and never did after the previous maintenance I did which involved fitting a new spring and seal.Shrendi, I'm going to have to disagree with you on that one.
I've had my 35 apart and together a LOT this year. The first few times I did it, it did smoke a bit but now, with all the practice, it is a relatively simple task to get it back together with no dieseling, even on the first shot
Bob
I must like more lube on the comp tube walls.
That's what I did too with the 97K. Just a "smidgin" of moly round the bottom half that nice green Venom washer and Robert's yer Father's brother...
... non-smoker from pellet N°1
My guns are nearly all FAC.
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