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Thread: Cylinder pin fouling up

  1. #1
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    Cylinder pin fouling up

    Chaps,
    I have a Pietta .36 Remington which is a pleasure to shoot, puts the holes where they should go most of the time but the cylinder pin fouls up. After 5 shots I have to remove the pin and clean it. If I fail to do this it becomes a real pain to get out. I've tried a new pin, used 3 different powder types( Swiss no 2, FO triangle and Henry Kranks fine) with filler, without filler, with wads, without wads, with grease and without and a combination of them .
    End result the pin still fouls up.
    I doubt if God, Mr Remington or Mr Pietta would have designed it this way. Any suggestions to how I can solve this?

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    try a little copper grease on the pin when you assemble it. works for me on my b/p revolvers. Tim

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    Is the fouling is getting in from the front of the cylinder?

    First thing to try is to liberally apply a heavy grease to the arbour pin and to the aperture in the cylinder. This might help to keep the crud out.

    Not familiar with the exact configuration of this gun: Some have a protrusion at the front of the cylinder where the arbour pin passes through (like a bush proud of the cylinder face), so that the escaping crud from the gap between the chamber mouth and the barrel cannot easily get to the pin. Is there an excessive gap at the very front which is allowing space for crud to get in? Would a thin washer in there help to plug the gap?

    Does the cylinder have a lot of fore/aft play when on full cock? (there will be a little)
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    Keep it greased up with a thick grease.

    Silicon grease is not affected by the heat.You could try that.

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    Me and another black powder shooter have started making and using paper cases (perming papers rolled then glued using a prit stick) I just put black powder and fine semolina in the case but he puts the ball in as well) we have both noticed that fouling is reduced when using paper cases.
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    Thanks for the replies, not a lot of play other than what I would expect and not enough for a washer.
    I shall try the grease and keep you posted .

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim56 View Post
    try a little copper grease on the pin when you assemble it. works for me on my b/p revolvers. Tim
    Do this ^^ Works for me on a Pietta Remington .44 - although I use more than a little, enough to stop ingress. Copper grease is temperature resistant so won't run when it gets hot.

    I've also found that using grease cookies between wad and ball softens the BP residue and reduces the fouling. I've never found mashing a load of lard over the front of the cylinder has reduced fouling - most of it isn't there after the first shot anyway. Most days I run out of range time before fouling becomes an issue - and using the cookies means the pistol is pretty much wipe clean afterwards. No scrubbing / hot water / dish washer required
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    Quote Originally Posted by airgunnut View Post
    Me and another black powder shooter have started making and using paper cases (perming papers rolled then glued using a prit stick) I just put black powder and fine semolina in the case but he puts the ball in as well) we have both noticed that fouling is reduced when using paper cases.

    You can use hand rolling cigarette papers as well. Dip them in a solution of saltpetre and let them dry.

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    Quote Originally Posted by enfield2band View Post
    You can use hand rolling cigarette papers as well. Dip them in a solution of saltpetre and let them dry.
    We found the perming papers don't need saltpetre on them as they burn a lot better than fag papers
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckle View Post
    Do this ^^ Works for me on a Pietta Remington .44 - although I use more than a little, enough to stop ingress. Copper grease is temperature resistant so won't run when it gets hot.

    I've also found that using grease cookies between wad and ball softens the BP residue and reduces the fouling. I've never found mashing a load of lard over the front of the cylinder has reduced fouling - most of it isn't there after the first shot anyway. Most days I run out of range time before fouling becomes an issue - and using the cookies means the pistol is pretty much wipe clean afterwards. No scrubbing / hot water / dish washer required
    What are "grease cookies"?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Part451 View Post
    What are "grease cookies"?
    A mixture of 20% Bee's wax / 80% bacon lard melted in a pan, poured into a shallow tray to a depth of 2 or 3 mm, leave to set and then cut out with an old .44 Mag case for the Remmy or a .38 case for the .36 Colt. The Bee's wax stops the cookies melting in the summer.

    I cut a load and put them in a small tin with some flour to stop them sticking together.
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    Quote Originally Posted by airgunnut View Post
    We found the perming papers don't need saltpetre on them as they burn a lot better than fag papers
    Thats interesting I must give them a try.

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    Quote Originally Posted by enfield2band View Post
    Thats interesting I must give them a try.
    As with the fag papers, you have to work out how much to cut off to prevent the paper doubling over (laving just enough to glue)
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  14. #14
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    The copper grease worked a treat, shot 2 cards, 13 on each and the pin came out with very little fouling .
    Thanks for the suggestion.

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    Mozza69

    Hi , I'm new to this forum and was reading your fouling problem . I have both .44 and .36 and had the same trouble that your having . I found after using all the usual lubs that good old lard dose the trick and it's cheap . Before you start shooting smear bit on the pin and use it on top of each cylinder and it's not to stop a flash over as the only way that will happen is through a cap dropping off next to the cylinder that's being fired . It is soli to keep it from ceasing up. But you will need to withdraw the pin after every cylinder full fired and wipe it and re lard it with the .36 . You can do two or three cylinders full with the .44 I think the reason it fouls so quick with a .36 is the cylinder is a smaller diameter and the chambers are nearer to the pin. It is also design fault with remingtons . If they had put a recess into the frame and turned a minimal shoulder on the front of the chamber it wouldn't foul , if you look at an old remmi that's had plenty of use you see that the pin will have a line etched into it at the end of the cylinder where there is a slight gap. This is caused by powder burn . Hope I've been some help. Mozza69

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