Registered User
Sounds similar then.. I'm surprised to be honest that some of the guns you mention are capable of that level of accuracy, but hey, I learned something...Originally Posted by TORNADOS7
Nice shootin matey, I'm talking ragged one holers that'll fit under a 5p although I will say I can't vouch for the 'Xocet' anymore as in a moment of madness I shortened the barrel, not quite sure what possessed me but there it is, anyway I've got a picture on my iPad of one of my 5 shot groups done with my 'TX' but I can't seem to get it to appear on this forum for some reason (something to do with this photo bucket thing) although I have posted it a few times over on the other forum, probably not as tight a group as yours but then you are using a .177 !...
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
Banned
The PE is not like other break barrels. It has a much better set up than all others I've seen. The replaceable pivot bushings with the large integral side flanges are a big plus. I also suspect the ball detent on the TX cocking arm can push the barrel up, but they are so good I can't see them being much better. I think a TX with a very tight lock up on the arm may not be so good and would shoot for a little less tension.
Banned
Depends on how the latch sits. We've mused the magnetic route already.
The big issue is any force imparted to the compression tube can be imparted to the underlever which can be imparted to the barrel. Somewhere they need to be disconnected, and the underlever retained.
We've had thoughts about doing it another way and getting rid of the idea of attaching or resting it against the barrel altogether.
There was a guy at the Worlds who I noted had no latch at all.. don't know how he faired...
My Tx is very sloppy. As part of my routine i over push the barrel up to make sure it pops back down onto the ball bearing central...otherwise it can be 5mm either side.
Might be able to do it with magnets without it actually touching.
Registered User
That is the point that us springer shooters are trying to make when we say that springers are just as accurate as PCP's, accuracy is not the issue, the issue is how easy or hard it is to achieve or unlock the accuracy potential of the springer in question !...
Some springers are just complete arses and you'll struggle to hit a barn door ar 10yds with em no matter how hard you try, other springers on the other hand are quite easy to shoot accurately especially if they've had a mild tune-up or as I like to call it a 'de-tune' but thats another thing altogether !...
Registered User
Pics or Mr Bodger's very nice 77 - the catch seems to work similarly to the superstar, or SLR88:
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...K/DSCN6843.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...K/DSCN6844.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...K/DSCN6845.jpg
My own magnetic catch tests failed last night as the test gun just wasn't grouping tight enough to make testing meaningfull; got to find a batch of JSBs it likes as run out of the old ones - or I will just bring another TX to swap the levers around with - next week !
I think this has merit - need fine adjustment of the cocking shoe (or the breech seal), but the magnet I'm using is plenty strong enough to hold the lever in place without actually touching the barrel - only needs 0.5mm clearance. Or, could put in a small spacer above the underlever, right near the pivot point at the front of the action, so that limits the lever's upwards travel without actually bearing against the barrel.
Last edited by Shed tuner; 05-05-2016 at 08:22 AM.
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
Lord of the Springs
An off the wall idea. How about machining another notch in the cylinder at the rear, and let the anti beartrap secure the cylinder and underlever? It would only be holding the weight of the underlever and a slight force from the compressed breech seal, so should release easily.
Registered User
Yup, that could work
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
Registered User
Why'd he set fire to his stock?
Registered User
removes the oxygen, reducing combustion risk....
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
Registered User
Lol, you can't see it properly from that angle but the stock is dyed black and hard wax finished, as you move your head the grain shows through as a dark amber hue that moves with angle, it's rather appealing, and a total accident as I just expected it to be black!
That rifle was finished 5 years ago and has had a lot of use but it's still totally consistent and reliable.
Registered User
I hear you can use ammonia? to get a deep black colour, though never seen one on BBS
Banned
On my 97 there's naff all in the way of slack. Any movement of the comp tube and the underlever moves. Think what happens in the firing cycle. Think what happens to the barrel seal in changing temps!.
My TX 200 is stock apart from the spring n piston, but the amount of slack at the catch must be about 1cm in 2 different axis (left/right/up & down). There's a little slack on the comp tube, but only a tad.
Thing is, you get an action clocked up and put some mild force into it... good grief they're made of jelly. I know by not putting the lever back in the right place the zero is off. So I then wonder how off is off and how much that piston moves the comp tube and how much is imparted into the lever and into the barrel.
What you could do is free float the barrel entirely. Then sheath the barrel from the breech block with tube that doesn't touch the barrel anywhere, that's strong enough to hold the lever in place but weak enough that it won't impart any force into the breech.
I even had the idea of bridging the loading port with rod. Both guns are so weak there. In the end I think we thought we'd just make up a new action tube out of much stronger stuff.
Really, the lever should be disengaged from the compression tube, but the compression tube locked forward.
The tx is better in this respect in that it's seals don't compromise the closing distance when the hardness of the seal changes. The 97 is better in the respect that air isn't trying to get down past the seals at all. If the comp tube was locked off precisely, the seal wouldn't have such an impact assuming a good seal and the 97 route would be better.
Banned
This detent tension talk brings up another reason the MarkI and MarkII is better. You can unscrew the barrel weight/muzzle break/whatever it's called on the end of the old barrels to adjust the tension. You first need to pull the barrel so that it can also be turned to where it needs to be to put the detent straight down. I always set my detent as near dead center of the side to side play of the cocking lever as possible. I have one gun that the arm seems a bit to the side of straight beneath the barrel, so I put the barrel slightly to the side so it's centered in the arms side to side play. It shoots very well, but I also thought of bending the arm to center it. Since I had the barrel off anyway, I just set it a couple of mm off. I guess you could loosen the shroud and slide it forward, on the MarkIII, to lessen the lock up in the detent, but that seems like more work.
Registered User
I make my own trans port for the TX , so when the lever returns it compresses the breach seal and holds the trans port against the barrel, this way there is no forward movement, you then make sure that there is a little clearance behind the cocking shoe , that way, no movement is transferred to the cocking linkage , and you don't break the cocking shoe.On my 97 there's naff all in the way of slack. Any movement of the comp tube and the underlever moves. Think what happens in the firing cycle. Think what happens to the barrel seal in changing temps!
My TX 200 is stock apart from the spring n piston, but the amount of slack at the catch must be about 1cm in 2 different axis (left/right/up & down). There's a little slack on the comp tube, but only a tad.
Thing is, you get an action clocked up and put some mild force into it... good grief they're made of jelly. I know by not putting the lever back in the right place the zero is off. So I then wonder how off is off and how much that piston moves the comp tube and how much is imparted into the lever and into the barrel.
What you could do is free float the barrel entirely. Then sheath the barrel from the breech block with tube that doesn't touch the barrel anywhere, that's strong enough to hold the lever in place but weak enough that it won't impart any force into the breech.
I even had the idea of bridging the loading port with rod. Both guns are so weak there. In the end I think we thought we'd just make up a new action tube out of much stronger stuff.
Really, the lever should be disengaged from the compression tube, but the compression tube locked forward.
The tx is better in this respect in that it's seals don't compromise the closing distance when the hardness of the seal changes. The 97 is better in the respect that air isn't trying to get down past the seals at all. If the comp tube was locked off precisely, the seal wouldn't have such an impact assuming a good seal and the 97 route would be better.
On the idea of holding the lever up without a catch, how about magnet further back under the breach near the pivot ?
Registered User
My HW 98 is easily as accurate as my TX 200 and Prosport up to 70 yards ( max distance that I have available to me ). If anything, I find the 98 a touch more accurate ( more repeatable accuracy ) as it is easier to shoot than the Prosport . The 98 is in a GinB custom stock though and the Prosport is in the standard walnut stock.
Regards,
A.G
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote