Opinions and views on re-finishing please.

[El Garro]

It's a common practice to re black shotgun/rifle barrels and furniture , re-cutting worn checkering and stripping/re-oiling stocks and fore ends has gone on since guns were "invented" too so the question is.....

A nice old airgun with a few battle scars and worn blueing or even nice original patina is, in my opinion, best oiled, maintained and used as it is.
On the other hand, something that's over a hundred years old that's been found in an attic, shed or barn and is pitted and caked in crusty rust with dried out wood work and butchered screws is surely a case for full restoration (I prefer the term re-finishing) ???
One case in particular is not going to get better if it's left alone, it needs work basically. It's not a museum piece but it appears to be a rather rare old thing. I'd like to see it back to its former glory so someone who likes it can go out and use it, whether it be for knocking down tin cans, peppering targets or as it very likely has done during its lifetime, putting meat in the pot. I realise a realistic range and a certain amount of skill must be part of the latter but aside from that issue, I'd be really interested in the input from this, the gentleman's section

In a nutshell, I believe that something unique should be stabilised and preserved for the future but what I class as a "knacker" or near scrap should, if it's worth it, be properly re-finished and used, maybe even put a smile on the owners face.
What do you say ?
Over to you.
Cheers
Nick.

[Phil Russell]

All depends on what you want. A battle-scarred old wreck with screws and bolts replaced with B&Q best self tappers would, if I had it and thought it could be made serviceable, be treated to more aesthetically pleasing nuts and bolts/screws ... even to the extent of cutting new threads as needed and oil blacking the new screws etc. New piston washer and breech seal as a matter of course plus replacement spring if needed. Action cleared of surface rust and then oiled or, if really in the mood I might self blue it. Stock would be cleaned and polished but if really cosmetically challenged I would consider stripping it and refinishing. This all applies to what might be described as a 'bog standard' rifle that is not rare but provides me with a few hours of enjoyment as a nice rifle appears from the mess. If it is a 'valuable' piece then I would go for an exterior clean up as above but not refinish the stock (apart from a clean) or consider a reblue. I would, however, sort out any internal issues with seals / springs.
Just my take on it ... others might well disagree.
Cheers, Phil

[piggy589]

Your final paragraph sums it up,conserve the valuable and go to town on the mundane, with a view to using and hopefully enjoying them

[Unframed Dave]

I've just had a haenel 28r reblued. When I bought it it had all the metalwork polished to a bright finish. Knowing this would only degrade in time and that it wasn't in original condition anyway I had it done. I'm very pleased with it now and it basically looks the dogs. It probably isn't worth what I paid for it plus the bluing, but it's a keeper anyway.

Dave

[silva]

My instinct is always to keep things original, if they haven't already been potched with. However a really good reblue can be a thing to admire. But a lot of it depends on the quality of the polishing and reblue. A skilled restorer will keep all the metal edges sharp, markings intact and replicate the original state of polish. As well as getting the right shade of blue/grey. Its best to leave the stocks alone, if they are in reasonable shape and leave all the original colour, scratches and patina intact and just build up the finish with linseed oil. They will look like far more authentic.

Of course anything rare or valuable should be left 100% original

What I don't like on old Bsa underlevers, is when you see them polished to a mirror finish, edges rounded off and a nasty thick dark blue finish applied. Especially if the stocks have been sanded down and blandly restained.

On very rusty heavily pitted airguns, you are best off polishing off any active rust with fine wire wool and gun oil. Then just keep handling any bright bits and only very occasionally oiling them. Keep doing this for a number of years and the bright bits turn a even brown colour. Nothing looks worse than rebluing over half polished out deep pitting. Plus they always start to rust again out of the pits.

[Garvin]

In a nutshell, I believe that something unique should be stabilised and preserved for the future but what I class as a "knacker" or near scrap should, if it's worth it, be properly re-finished and used, maybe even put a smile on the owners face.

That pretty much sums up my view too, Nick.

[lost?]

I usually like to keep things origional, but when the guy at work bought in a mk6 airsporter he rescued from a skip to trade with me (cost me £40) i decided to rebuild her and opt for some green/camo paint scheme to make her lovely again. (work in progress) Probably not everyones cup of tea, but i will be using it as backup/2nd rifle at my permission. Dont like using my hw100 in the rain/damp.
Ive purchased quite a few new parts to get a nice functioning rifle but the stock had some damage so it was a choice of either replace or repair. It was easy enough to fix, but didnt look pretty hence the paint. The metalwork wasnt too bad, but someone had polished it up and removed the blue. Thankfully not too much to lose any detail.
As i will be using it often and need to camo it a bit anyways i decided to paint the whole thing rather than wrapping it in camo tape!
If i want to restore it to its origional former glory further down the line i know ive a cracking rifle under the paint, i will replace the stock and strip the paint for a re-blue.

[18 Wheeler]

The old conservation, preservation or restoration argument.

I'd argue that there are very few important or unique airguns that warrant the museum treatment. Certainly an LJ, BSA pre-war etc don't qualify unless they have a verifiable and important story associated with them.

Patina! A myth, perpetuated by those who can't be bothered/won't pay to get the item correctly refinished.
(Direct contact with "patinated" items also leads to a neurological condition ~ EA (Erugo acceptio ) resulting in the inability to make rational assessments, you have been warned.

Most of these tatty old hulks will go straight in the bin when you pop your clogs, whilst the shiny nice ones will be recognised as having some value and find new homes.

[DT Fletcher]

All depends on the gun in question.

[davymole]

some shot guns yes,restore, BSA,s skip fodder over to you on that one nick

[Benelli B76]

I just blue, blue, blue. If it stands still too long I blue it. I am G96 best customer.

Baz

[Airsporterman]

Opinions and views on re-finishing please.

Has to be a personal thing!
In my opinion, an old rifle that bears it's age well shouldn't be re-finished just for the sake of it, I have a couple that have age related marks - I wouldn't dream of refinishing them, it's removing their 'history' and 'character'.
A neglected or abused (rusty) example is a different matter.
Where at all possible, an old rifle should be returned back to it's original condition, so any incorrect finishes or fittings/screws etc should be faithfully replaced with the correct type.
A few years ago now, I was given a mk2 action as part of a deal I made. It was minus a stock but I had one so fitted it. The blueing on it reflected the rifles age, ie, it was okay. Someone had 'polished' the curved trigger block.
Originally, it was my intention to completely reinstate it all back to original, however, when I fitted the new stock, the rifle just sort of said to me - I am fine, just leave me alone, I am what I am!
So I left it and I am pleased I did so - it's unique to itself. The trigger block has dulled slightly now and the whole action is oiled and looks, well 'genuine'

Each to their own!
What's right for one is wrong for another.
Important thing is that these old rifles are loved and used!


ASM

[thisisdonald]

Im of the opinion that a gun should be maintained in a condition that is useable and prevents further deterioration. If its really far gone.. break it for spares and let someone else get their project finished. If its good internally but on the cusp externally, stabilize it and give ut a good internal tune.. ratty, is a description that bike, car and bicycle lovers are bandying about just now... why not us? Ive had a few guns that were really used looking byt shot great.. there is a real s feeling of freedom of being able to take a gun out and not worry about scratching or denting it, but still give it that wipedown before bed.

[18 Wheeler]

... BSA's skip fodder...

Glad to see another who's eyes have seen the promised land...

I just blue, blue, blue. If it stands still too long I blue it. I am G96 best customer.
Baz

To quote Blind Boy Fuller,
"Said, I got the blues, and I had 'em all day long.
Yes, I got the blues, and I've been, had 'em all day long.
Yeah, when I get my pistol, I won't have them long".
[Crooked woman Blues].

Gotta love the Blues. There's too many Rustafarians in the collecting world.

[evert]

Cold blues are smelly, poisonous, and not very durable. I prefer rust over ANY cold blue, and I have tried most cold blues on the market(G-96, Hoppes, Bichwood casey, Brownells oxpho, a locally made version etc).

In my opinion, rust should be removed/polished away with fine steel wool soaked in oil, perhaps with brass brushes in severe cases. Then soaked in oil and kept that way. airguns hould be returned to mechanically sound condition with appropriate looking parts. Thats it... history is history, leave it that way.

I only refinish guns that have had the finish removed and rust sanded away by previous owners.