Always neck size other rifle's brass?

[zanes]

I just re-read your first post Zanes, is that a typo about only neck sizing? As it should be Full Length Sized if you've got fired brass from another rifle. Sorry if that's been picked up on by another poster already!

If you're really worried about case life in yer 300WM, it might be worth considering getting the chamber cut to an ackley chamber - a friend of mine did this with his 300 Winmag and gets much improved case life, very low stretch and a good few more FPS too..

Yes, I did mean Full Length Size there. D'oh!

And the thread title is wrong too. FML, I should step away from the reloading bench.....

[JB101]

I would recommend hand loading for competition by glen zediker IMO one of the best books on reloading for all levels of experience .

Check out his web site as there are a few downloads available

Regards
James

[bewsh]

I disagree with the need for full length sizing unless the case is not chambering.
That is the only reason to fl size imo

I shoot 300wm
I only neck size, lee collet die, I also crimp.
I haven't had to trim any of the brass
I am still using the same 200 new norma cases I bought with the rifle some years back
My loads include a max load 78gr h1000 under 208gr amax
I have no pressure signs despite the high charge the case size is higher volume than most brands keeping the pressure down.

Most cases are 5-7 firings, none have been annealed and none have any signs of work hardening

People often "oversize" their cases when FL sizing, by this I mean they bump the shoulder back too much.
Every rifle is different
You should set your FL die so that the case only just chambers without pressure on the bolt
Best way to do this is with the pin and spring removed, no pressure, all you are feeling is the case
Keep sizing and chambering an undersized case until it just drops the handle.
Set the die there, that is it head spacing off the shoulder.
Any more and you will get shorter brass life, case growth, primer pocket wear, and worse precision results from your loads (precision is group size, accuracy is group location)

Belted cases are headspaced off the belt.
This is a legacy system to allow hunters in very hot climates to use ammo with confidence
This was mainly to allow for slicker chambering and reloading in potentially dangerous circumstances, brass swells in heat, can stick in the chamber, add dust or sweat to the equation and a charging buffalo.....

I do not believe that sizing to headspace off the belt is the best way for accuracy or brass life in a normal hunting situation.
Size like you would above for a bottle neck cartridge, minimal if any shoulder space
Ignore the belt, 1000 yard shooters were doing this for 50yrs before I discovered it! It's not new

Here is why:
http://www.thestalkingdirectory.co.u...gnum+headspace

The belt holds the case and exacerbates the case stretch when full length sized, leading to the case head separation I experienced on heavily worked brass I inherited with the rifle.

If it chambers, Size the important bit, the neck
If it doesn't chamber. Size the bit that is causing the restriction, but only just

[zanes]

Thanks Bewsh- pretty much confirms my understanding of belted magnums (admittedly limited as the 300WM is my first belted and first magnum calibe) and the lack of need to headspace off the belt in a simple target shooting scenario.

[foxshooter]

OK

My two pennies worth.

I have shot 300Winmag for a number of years, started with new brass and always neck sized. I have found that with continued firings extraction can start to become difficult.

Have a look at the site here www.larrywillis.com and http://www.larrywillis.com/answers.html

There are articles here that will explain a lot of stuff about sizing belted magnum cases

I purchased one of his dies and have never looked back

Mark