A question about hot oil bluing?

[look no hands]

Hi to the well informed,

I've just had a go at hot oil bluing, apart from the blow lamp taking ages to heat the metal to the blue colour required (which I will be asking about that on another thread), the finish has come out patchy (not sure if it does/doesn't give an over all solid finish?) the question is, if I repeat the process a few times does it get darker and not patchy?

Cheers

Pete

[greenman]

Never done it but I'd imagine more patches would mean less patches ,saturation if you like and a nice consistent finish .

[JLB]

I find it works better with old engine oil rather than new. Just in case you used new. Metal prep is just as important as well, if you start with a patchy bit of steel with remnants of the old bluing in places it usually stays patchy after the hot oil treatment. Some people also like the patchy finish with differing shades of blue/black/purple.

John

[look no hands]

I find it works better with old engine oil rather than new. Just in case you used new. Metal prep is just as important as well, if you start with a patchy bit of steel with remnants of the old bluing in places it usually stays patchy after the hot oil treatment. Some people also like the patchy finish with differing shades of blue/black/purple.

John

I polished the metal before hand with a buffing wheel and polishing compound to an almost mirror finish, I used new mineral oil as I don't have any used stuff (don't like touching used either because of all the cancer scares you hear about it) I may give it another try soon to see if it covers the patchy bits but I want to find something better than my blow lamp to heat the metal with.

Pete

[RichardH]

Pop them in the post polished and I'll reblack them for you FOC

[TORNADOS7]

I polished the metal before hand with a buffing wheel and polishing compound to an almost mirror finish, I used new mineral oil as I don't have any used stuff (don't like touching used either because of all the cancer scares you hear about it) I may give it another try soon to see if it covers the patchy bits but I want to find something better than my blow lamp to heat the metal with.

Pete

Used oil is the least of your worries buddy, you're filling your body with carcenogens day in day out and you don't even realise it !...

[CapitalBee]

I had a go at metal prep, prior to getting some items chemically blacked. The compound left a residue on the surface that caused problems with the blacking, in fact the blacker stripped it and re-did it as the finish was so poor.

[TORNADOS7]

Lots of people seem to like using buffer wheels with all sorts of fancy compounds to polish metals, I've always found 1200grd wet'n'dry and differing grades of oil achieves the required effect without the risk of residues !...

Coarse cutting should be done with new paper and something like WD40...

Fine finishing would be done with worn paper and something like 20/50...

[NickG]

we used to oil black our punches and toolmakers clamps when we were apprentices , red hot and quench in fish oil , durable , but never shiney

[xbow]

Dirty old engine oil does work well for blacking metal but it's nasty stuff. Do it outside and don't breathe in the fumes and wash your hands thoroughly afterwards if you get oil on them.

[look no hands]

Pop them in the post polished and I'll reblack them for you FOC

Bloody hell Richard, that's a very kind offer that I'd be a fool to turn down, I'll give it another polish tomorrow and get it packed up.

Many thanks.

Pete

[wseed]

Sounds like you're sorted now and I'm not sure this is even the process you're trying to do but I've been watching a fascinating set of videos where a guy is making a clock and many of the tools he needs to use to make the clock. Here's one where he explains his bluing process They're all worth a watch and the videos are very professionally put together.

[Mark A]

Sounds like you're sorted now and I'm not sure this is even the process you're trying to do but I've been watching a fascinating set of videos where a guy is making a clock and many of the tools he needs to use to make the clock. Here's one where he explains his bluing process They're all worth a watch and the videos are very professionally put together.

Thanks for posting this, I have never come across his channel before.

[look no hands]

Sounds like you're sorted now and I'm not sure this is even the process you're trying to do but I've been watching a fascinating set of videos where a guy is making a clock and many of the tools he needs to use to make the clock. Here's one where he explains his bluing process They're all worth a watch and the videos are very professionally put together.

Very interesting, amazing how different processes can blue items, don't think that procedure would work very well on cylinders and barrels

Also I wanted to have a go myself, which to be honest hasn't come out that bad, I think it's the heating of the metal which is causing the problem, I'll have a look at the MAP gas system and upgrade to that for future use as I have an old Air Arms sidelever that needs doing and that can be the next guinea pig, I'm trying to keep the costs down on my lower end rifles that are entering my collection as it's the postage costs on top of the work costs that mount up.

Pete

[RichardH]

Bloody hell Richard, that's a very kind offer that I'd be a fool to turn down, I'll give it another polish tomorrow and get it packed up.

Many thanks.

Pete

No problem Pete