Quote Originally Posted by phil384 View Post
They list H414 which is equivalent.

I really appreciate the advice, don't give up on me but I'm losing the will to live
The problem you have is that you are getting bits of information from here, there and everywhere with some of it being good, some bad and some indifferent.

This is why the best advice to pick up a relaoding manual ( Richard Lee's modern reloading is very, very good ) and read the introductory chapters on the theory behind reloading, as well as the practice such as setting up Full length reloading dies to make brass chamber in the rifle again.

Those equivalencies are meant to be ball park alternative powder indications, not exact equivalencies to the point where load data can be shared. The idea is that if powder X works well in a particular calibre with a particular bullet weight but the supply runs dry, the equivalency table indicates which powders it might be worth trying as a substitute) You still have to work up the load though.

Heavy bullets in the .243 suit powders in the slower burn range in generally held opinion. The most common of these suitable powders are things like H4350, N150 & RL17 at the faster end to H4831, N160 and RL22 at the slower end. What your barrel prefers will make the ultimate decision as to precisely which powder you use and so the bloke in the gunshop telling you to get N150 is giving rather tenuous advice IMO as his barrel is different from yours and mine.

As a beginner only use load data from reliable published, manufacturer sources to begin with. It is safer and will perform better as a multi-million dollar pressure lab has done most of the work for you.

In this case you do not have data for N150 and your particular bullet but you have data for two slightly heavier bullets at an average start load of ~29 grains to an average max of ~35 grains for around 2800 fps velocity.

You could probably get away with pushing the top end a little bit due to your lighter bullet but to do that you would really need to have a chronograph to make sure that the velocity isn't getting away from you.