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Thread: 1st 243 reload recipe - your thoughts?

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    phil384's Avatar
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    1st 243 reload recipe - your thoughts?

    So the cases are cleaned, resized, trimmed, chamfered, lubed de-primed, tumbled (Yes I bought one ) and I'm ready to go (I didn't do it in that order )

    These will be for fox and small deer in a Howa 1500 with 1:10 twist rate. I have:

    95gr Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets
    VihtaVitouri (Sp?) N150 powder as recommended by the RFD
    Federal Gold Medal primers.

    The manual recommends overall case length between 2.54" and 2.71", between 36-40 grains powder.

    I was going to go straight down the middle of COAL of 2.62" and 38gr powder.

    How does this sound? I realise I'm going to need to find the sweet spot but is this OK as a starter for 10?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by phil384; 10-08-2016 at 10:51 AM.
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    Hi Phil!

    I don't know about your bullet choice or powder as it's heavier than I shoot but for COL I should read this by Tac, much better than guessing.
    Hope this helps and good luck finding a load that works for you..


    Quote Originally Posted by tacfoley View Post

    Cheap method - uses a fired cartridge case and a bullet that you can use again.

    1. Take your once-fire case and neck size it.

    2. With a fine-blade hacksaw, cut three or four slits in the neck down as far as the shoulder.

    3. Insert the bullet - it should be held fairly tightly by the neck, in spite of the slits, which act as a spring-loaded 'retainer'. Insert it just far enough to be held without falling out.

    4. Use a felt-tipped marker to mark the bullet all round.

    5. Insert the complete item into the breech and close the bolt.

    6. As the bullet touches the rifling, that will push the bullet into the case.

    7. Carefully open the action, and drop the case with the bullet in it gently into your waiting hand.

    8. You now have a dummy cartridge that exactly fits into YOUR breech and 'just' touches the rifling. Exactly WHERE it touches the rifling will be indicated by rifling marks in the felt-tip marking, if you see what I mean.

    9. Using the calipers we told you to buy a couple of months ago, carefully measure the OVERALL LENGTH of the COMPLETE CARTRIDGE. Let us say that it is 2.75"

    10. Whatever that measurement is, begin reloading a series of cartridge, using the same style of bullets, at 0.010" shorter than 2.75". You are now making a finished cartridge that is 0.010" SHORT of the lands of the rifling, for a start, and see how you get on. Some rifles like a bigger 'jump', but remember that being actually in contact with the the rtifling at the moment of ignition meansa that the pressure will peak virtually instantly - having even the slightest 'jump' will reduce that effect by a small amount, possibly resulting in an increase in accuracy. You can increase the amount of shortness by 0.005" at a time until you get the resaults you want. My Krico 650SS likes a 'ten 'thou jump' with Lapua Scenars, but shooting VLD Bergers I have to make allowances as the ogive is so long that the bullet would have nigh-on disappeared up thr barrel by the time it touched the rifling.

    Remember, too, that this will be different of every type of bullet, as has been noted here many times. The longer the ogive, the more the bullet needs to be set out of the case in order to touch the lands - the opposite is therefore true - old-style, short ogive bullets will need careful finagling.

    Expensive method. Buy a Stoney Point cartridge length gauge, or whatever it's called now, for about £50 - 60, that does exactly the same thing, but looks really spiffy.

    You choose.

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    Thanks for that. Wow this is a steep learning curve!

    I've found that the recommended loads/COAL etc etc varies depending on which manufacturer you go by i.e Nosler/VihtaVuori/Lee ....

    I think I'm going to make 5 rounds at 36gr, 5 at 37gr etc up to 40gr (max according to VihtaVuori) and see how I go.

    I'm going to give tacfoley's method a go to get best COAL.
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil384 View Post
    Thanks for that. Wow this is a steep learning curve!

    I've found that the recommended loads/COAL etc etc varies depending on which manufacturer you go by i.e Nosler/VihtaVuori/Lee ....

    I think I'm going to make 5 rounds at 36gr, 5 at 37gr etc up to 40gr (max according to VihtaVuori) and see how I go.

    I'm going to give tacfoley's method a go to get best COAL.
    I would just stick to the middle powder recommendation and load up different COLs 10 thou apart, 3 rounds of each, starting with your max COL for the rifle (using the TAC method above) and back off 10 thou to start. Make about 5 sets ending up starting 50 thou off your max length.

    Powder gives you fps, COL gives you accuracy.

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    phil384's Avatar
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    Thanks Andy, just when I thought I had it sussed

    I've prepped a load of brass in exactly the same way from 4 different manuf.

    I tried them as empty cases in my action and found the bolt really hard to close on the S&B and Winchester. I've binned them, I'm not going to mess about.

    The RWS and Federal cycled nicely and I have about 100 cases anyway which should last a while.

    Weird!
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    Don't mix cases they will have different internal capacities meaning the pressures will be different!

    Why not buy 100 nice shiny Lapua brass. Small investment when you consider how many times they'll be reloaded

    If not then the RWS are probably nicer than the federal, so bin the federal and keep the RWS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phil384 View Post
    So the cases are cleaned, resized, trimmed, chamfered, lubed de-primed, tumbled (Yes I bought one ) and I'm ready to go (I didn't do it in that order )

    These will be for fox and small deer in a Howa 1500 with 1:10 twist rate. I have:

    95gr Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets
    VihtaVitouri (Sp?) N150 powder as recommended by the RFD
    Federal Gold Medal primers.

    The manual recommends overall case length between 2.54" and 2.71", between 36-40 grains powder.

    I was going to go straight down the middle of COAL of 2.62" and 38gr powder.

    How does this sound? I realise I'm going to need to find the sweet spot but is this OK as a starter for 10?

    Thanks.


    Can you advise what manual you are using, the online Viht reloading guides do not have 95grn, they do list a 96grn but not with N150. 40grn N150 seems a bit much unless you work up to it carefully. It's not always the fastest bullet thats the most accurate.

    I had a 1 in 10 twist rate 243 Parker Hale and it wouldn't stabilise the 95grn Sierra Match king bullets although it was fine with older 100grn as they weren't as high BC (not as long a bullet). my Remy 700 in 243 does stabilise the 95grn SMK but it has a 1 in 9.25 twist.

    Good luck and enjoy.
    Last edited by jock308; 10-08-2016 at 02:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jock308 View Post
    Can you advise what manual you are using, the online Viht reloading guides do not have 95grn, they do list a 96grn but not with N150. 40grn N150 seems a bit much unless you work up to it carefully. It's not always the fastest bullet thats the most accurate.

    Good luck and enjoy.
    It was Nosler that list a 95gr bullet with H414 powder (N150 equivalent)

    36gr gives 2690 fps up to 40gr at 2988 max

    I appreciate speed doesn't equal accuracy.

    I've used tacfoley's idea to give my own gun's COAL of 2.745". I'll then try COALs of 2.735 down to 2.705 using 38grn and see how I go. I won't be straight to max load and may not need to.

    Thanks for all the advice
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    Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    +1 on the above post the load data you have been given seems slightly questionable given Vit's own data:http://www.vihtavuori.com/en/reloadi...inchester.html

    It is generally safe to use the load data from a bullet of similar construction but a bit heavier in rifle reloading for a lighter bullet, you get less pressure and speed rather than more.

    On that basis the limit for N150 for the 100 grain bullet ( speed grandslam 100 gr on the link) is 34.4 or 1.5 grain under the sat art range you have been given.

    looking at the data for the 90 grain bullets ( ie should be heavier charges than you 95 grain bullet) shows a max of between 35.5 and 37.7.

    Where did this chap get his load data from?

    I would be tempted to use the published 100 grain data and work up to that, ideally using a chronograph to keep on a eye on velocity as another clue as when to stop.

    If you can retrieve the Winchester and S&B brass do so and use them to practice setting up resizing and crimp dies. I suspect that they are softer than the Geco ( RWS really) and federal brass (which in my experience tend to be harder, in the case of the Federal too much so in the neck ) and you were simply not resizing them enough in the FL die.

    OAL depends on the rifle, I start at one calibre's worth of bullet shank in the case neck, to ensure good neck tension, and fiddle from there.
    Last edited by Randy Bohannon; 10-08-2016 at 02:46 PM.
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    From here:

    Hope the link works

    http://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/243-winchester/

    Click the 95-100 grn tab
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    Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil384 View Post
    From here:

    Hope the link works

    http://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/243-winchester/

    Click the 95-100 grn tab



    There's no N150 data under the 95/100 grain tab Phil.
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    They list H414 which is equivalent.

    I really appreciate the advice, don't give up on me but I'm losing the will to live
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    Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil384 View Post
    It was Nosler that list a 95gr bullet with H414 powder (N150 equivalent)

    36gr gives 2690 fps up to 40gr at 2988 max

    I appreciate speed doesn't equal accuracy.

    I've used tacfoley's idea to give my own gun's COAL of 2.745". I'll then try COALs of 2.735 down to 2.705 using 38grn and see how I go. I won't be straight to max load and may not need to.

    Thanks for all the advice

    Ouch, H414 and N150 are not the same powders Phil, there lies the road to perdition!

    I would no use the same load data especially considering that Vit's own data is so much more conservative ( ie by up to 5 grains ) than the "equivalent" H414 data as given in the Nosler data!
    "An infinite number of monkeys banging away at type writers for an infinite period of time will eventually reproduce Hamlet" Thanks to discussion forums we now know this to be untrue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phil384 View Post
    This ONLY shows equivalent (read comparable) burning rates it DOES NOT mean you can use same weight for both powders and expect the same result, you need to be careful and ONLY use the manufacturers own data for loads and always work up a load.

    The equivalent is useful if you run out of a powder and need something with similiar burning rates (similiar properties) then once you have a similiar powder you must use the manufacturers loading for that powder.

    I know it's confusing but no harm done so far, I use a 95grn SMK with 35grn of N150, it is a light load for target shooting mostly at 100 (our home range), although this is light and fine in my gun I wouldn't recommend anyone else using it without checking it is close to the minimium recomended from the viht reloading charts.

    Don't be put off just always use the manufacturers loading data and start low.

    Sorry if it seems I am shouting.

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