Regulator question for the tech guys.

[Tricky-Ricky]

Just fitted a Robert lane regulator to my Gamo Coyote, don't have problems fitting or understanding the principals etc, anyway followed the advice, shimmed the valve spring, although i strongly suspect that its needs a stronger spring, I'll explain why as i progress, and drilled out the transfer port to the recommended 3mm (drill supplied).

Anyway i wound out the hammer preload, and there doesn't look like i can do a lot for the hammer, as its quite small son not particularly heavy, and it sits in a plastic carrier that doubles as the spring guide.

Now i took it to the range and checked a few shots over the crono and found it was under powered, so a couple of turns on the pre load of the spring got it back on power, however although i couldn't hear it when actually firing, one of the guys said that he could hear the hammer/valve bounce, and it seems this is born out by the lower shot count (only 50 in 100 bar as opposed to normally 60-70) so its obviously using too much air, but what i am not sure about is to cure the hammer bounce would i be better off by increasing the valve spring pre load (by the look of it i will need another spring for this, as i dint think it can be shimmed any more) or what else can i do to the hammer/spring combo to stop the bounce and subsequent air loss?

[Shed tuner]

maybe increase the reg pressure; means the valve will close a bit quicker/firmer so less likely to be bounced by the hammer.

[Tricky-Ricky]

Just put the rifle back together after an afternoon on the lathe, and not only do i think i have cured my leak, i think i have also cured my hammer bounce with my own design of hammer with a simple special feature, dry fired it a couple of times with only low pressure 100bar and it definitely sounds a lot quieter, so in theory not wasting air due to bounce, obviously need to verify with the crono to check its still putting out a sensible fps, but fingers crossed i might have just cracked it.

[Benelli B76]

A good way to stop valve bounce is to have a sling-shot hammer. The hammer is under no preload from the spring and is actually free floating. The hammer spring will have to be shorter and stronger to be able to throw the hammer forward against the valve with the right force required to open it which will take a little testing to get right.

Baz

[Tricky-Ricky]

A good way to stop valve bounce is to have a sling-shot hammer. The hammer is under no preload from the spring and is actually free floating. The hammer spring will have to be shorter and stronger to be able to throw the hammer forward against the valve with the right force required to open it which will take a little testing to get right.

Baz

I considered that, but the size and layout constraints made it too much of a pain to achieve, may try it at a later date, but this design is looking pretty promising so far.

[lensman57]

Just fitted a Robert lane regulator to my Gamo Coyote, don't have problems fitting or understanding the principals etc, anyway followed the advice, shimmed the valve spring, although i strongly suspect that its needs a stronger spring, I'll explain why as i progress, and drilled out the transfer port to the recommended 3mm (drill supplied).

Anyway i wound out the hammer preload, and there doesn't look like i can do a lot for the hammer, as its quite small son not particularly heavy, and it sits in a plastic carrier that doubles as the spring guide.

Now i took it to the range and checked a few shots over the crono and found it was under powered, so a couple of turns on the pre load of the spring got it back on power, however although i couldn't hear it when actually firing, one of the guys said that he could hear the hammer/valve bounce, and it seems this is born out by the lower shot count (only 50 in 100 bar as opposed to normally 60-70) so its obviously using too much air, but what i am not sure about is to cure the hammer bounce would i be better off by increasing the valve spring pre load (by the look of it i will need another spring for this, as i dint think it can be shimmed any more) or what else can i do to the hammer/spring combo to stop the bounce and subsequent air loss?

I believe the correct way of fixing a bouncing hammer is to increase the regulator pressure and reduce the hammer spring preload, the adjustments steps is quite samll BTW. This must be done in conjunction of a full fill chrono test to establish the best pressuer V hammer preload and is a pain to do but has to be done.

A.G

[philong]

http://www.airguntech.com/

have a look on here..you can use an app with your smart phone to see a graph of any bounce

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/...opic=101738.40

these guys are into the bsa buccaneer.........same thing

[Tricky-Ricky]

http://www.airguntech.com/

have a look on here..you can use an app with your smart phone to see a graph of any bounce

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/...opic=101738.40

these guys are into the bsa buccaneer.........same thing

Thanks! but all sorted now, should have updated this, it was down to a dodgy chrono messing me about and making me second guess everything, had a lot of help from the US guys, but all in vain.

Now its running consistently...well always was really, my anti bounce device works very well and has increased my shot count even more so now get 130-150 shots from just over100bar, up from the std 50-60 shots, and my delrin hammer carrier works very well too.

[philong]

Anti bounce device ?? Can you give some details...sounds good

[lensman57]

Just fitted a Robert lane regulator to my Gamo Coyote, don't have problems fitting or understanding the principals etc, anyway followed the advice, shimmed the valve spring, although i strongly suspect that its needs a stronger spring, I'll explain why as i progress, and drilled out the transfer port to the recommended 3mm (drill supplied).

Anyway i wound out the hammer preload, and there doesn't look like i can do a lot for the hammer, as its quite small son not particularly heavy, and it sits in a plastic carrier that doubles as the spring guide.

Now i took it to the range and checked a few shots over the crono and found it was under powered, so a couple of turns on the pre load of the spring got it back on power, however although i couldn't hear it when actually firing, one of the guys said that he could hear the hammer/valve bounce, and it seems this is born out by the lower shot count (only 50 in 100 bar as opposed to normally 60-70) so its obviously using too much air, but what i am not sure about is to cure the hammer bounce would i be better off by increasing the valve spring pre load (by the look of it i will need another spring for this, as i dint think it can be shimmed any more) or what else can i do to the hammer/spring combo to stop the bounce and subsequent air loss?

Try increasing the Reg pressure bit by bit.

A.G

[RobF]

Do cars bounce less with stiff or soft springs?

[philong]

Do cars bounce less with stiff or soft springs?

I think it's the shocks that take out the bounce of both,.

[greenwayjames]

The answer is simple. Fit a JB Blast Tamer to the existing or shorten the hammer stroke by fitting a R10 inner stell core to the hammer. Lighten this if you can for even better results. See the JB official fanpage for piccies

[RobF]

I think it's the shocks that take out the bounce of both,.

But we don't have dampers on the shocks.

[philong]

But we don't have dampers on the shocks.

Your just messing now dampers or shocks same thing depends what country your from