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    Annie 250 strip show horror!!!

    This will go on a bit. Just saying!

    On Saturday I got a 250 match as a spares or repair kinda thing. The cocking lever was stuck open for reason/reasons unknown. Fortunately, I was at the Springer Bash and surrounded by more anoraks than Millets front window.

    As soon as the bag was opened some 1970's airgun pheromones wafted gently downwind and attracted a Jon Budd who arrived horny and ready for some action! Afte a bit of prodding and poking, it was discovered that the anti bear trap release catch was operating at the wrong moment. We adjusted it and it worked for around a dozen shots, then the same thing happened again.
    A quick strip later and we could see the problem, but not how to solve it? Eventually we just put tape over the bear trap so it could be used for the day.
    Heres some pics, if anyone has any info I'd appreciate it.

    http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...psl276dpnh.jpg

    http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...pszgl27pqs.jpg

    So, with that problem bodged it was time to shoot it. Nightmare! Couldn't get a group, then pellets stopped coming out altogether! It went back in the bag until this afternoon when I finally got a minute to strip it.
    First thing I noticed was the lush, furry velvet effect on the hydraulic damper unit.

    http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscpk0dp20.jpg

    A quick spin in the lathe polished that off though.

    http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...psu2acl2w3.jpg

    I removed the drain screw to pour out any remaining ATF. Nothing! So I took the unit apart and it was packed full of grease! The seals are made of crumbly cheese and there was an e clip missing from the damper rod, so the whole unit had been totally inneffective.

    http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...psxifqom6x.jpg

    http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps6a1lqcma.jpg


    On stripping the piston (skirtless, so much for innovative, new ideas) I found the comp tube was full of rubber debris, which is all that remained of the piston buffer. The Breech seal looks just as bad, so I am getting a new set of seals before I start rebuilding. That gives me plenty of time to clean and polish everything.



    If anyone has any ideas about the ABT I could do with the advice.
    Last edited by tinbum; 05-09-2016 at 03:17 PM.
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    ref the ABT.. as the notch is fixed, the one thing that dictates the position of the rod that passes through the ABT is the engagement with the piston / comp tube. At a certain point the comp tube moves independently of the rear carrier.. so if the interface / overlap at which they part company can be tuned to happen earlier, then that rod with the big notch will stop moving forwards earlier - and not bugger up the ABT. Maybe just sticking it all together properly, with the circlip etc might just sort it enough to get into the adjustment range of the little slider that blocks off the ABT ratchet.

    Piston washer looks great.. I had an FWB like that too. Interesting on the damper...
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Budd View Post
    ref the ABT.. as the notch is fixed, the one thing that dictates the position of the rod that passes through the ABT is the engagement with the piston / comp tube. At a certain point the comp tube moves independently of the rear carrier.. so if the interface / overlap at which they part company can be tuned to happen earlier, then that rod with the big notch will stop moving forwards earlier - and not bugger up the ABT. Maybe just sticking it all together properly, with the circlip etc might just sort it enough to get into the adjustment range of the little slider that blocks off the ABT ratchet.

    Piston washer looks great.. I had an FWB like that too. Interesting on the damper...
    I will get back into checkng that in the morning. It must be something thats obvious once you've found it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinbum View Post

    If anyone has any ideas about the ABT I could do with the advice.
    I did a refurb of one of these dampers years ago here if it's any help?

    I can see from your pics that a washer behind the damper unit that was originally made of cork (?) I think, has perished. Waffencenter Gotha do replacement ones in quite hard plastic, which you could reproduce.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garvin View Post
    I did a refurb of one of these dampers years ago here if it's any help?

    I can see from your pics that a washer behind the damper unit that was originally made of cork (?) I think, has perished. Waffencenter Gotha do replacement ones in quite hard plastic, which you could reproduce.
    Is that for the rear of the unit where it abutts the end cap?
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinbum View Post
    Is that for the rear of the unit where it abutts the end cap?
    Yes, that's the one.

    I just found a much better damper rebuild pictorial than mine. You can see the washer at 2.08.
    Vintage Airguns Gallery
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    Nick from what I can see the safety parts look complete so I'm guessing the problems a minor one of dirt or adjustment, without having the unit here I can't say more from the pics.

    Okay this is how it works.

    The compression tube when drawn back just contacts the abt button & you will hear the clicks.

    Toward the end of the levers travel you will feel slightly more resistance, this is when the unit towards the trigger behind the abt is picked up.

    Almost at the very end of the cocking stroke the silver bar the ABT sits on passes through. ( will notice a cut out on the silver bar) the unit with the screws is picked up by the end of the cut out (theres a tang on the unit with the two screws) & the tang the other end is pushed into the recess on the button. pust the ABT button down you will see it.

    On the forward stroke of the cocking lever towards the end, the other end of the cut out engages the unit with the two screws pushing it forwards thus releasing the ABT.

    Hope this helps
    ABT Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    I just love 'em these Star Wars rifles. Especially the way the whole trigger block removes intact, why don't they all strip like that, and of course the lovely way they shoot.

    Baz

    Yeah, the trigger casette removal was nice and easy; great design. Also meant we could de-cock the thing when it jammed. It even has a design such that should the casette move away from the rifle, it wouldn't actually fire... Really clever.

    Quote Originally Posted by wonky donky View Post
    Nick from what I can see the safety parts look complete so I'm guessing the problems a minor one of dirt or adjustment, without having the unit here I can't say more from the pics.

    Okay this is how it works.

    The compression tube when drawn back just contacts the abt button & you will hear the clicks.

    Toward the end of the levers travel you will feel slightly more resistance, this is when the unit towards the trigger behind the abt is picked up.

    Almost at the very end of the cocking stroke the silver bar the ABT sits on passes through. ( will notice a cut out on the silver bar) the unit with the screws is picked up by the end of the cut out (theres a tang on the unit with the two screws) & the tang the other end is pushed into the recess on the button. pust the ABT button down you will see it.

    On the forward stroke of the cocking lever towards the end, the other end of the cut out engages the unit with the two screws pushing it forwards thus releasing the ABT.

    Hope this helps
    ABT Dave
    hi Dave, yeah, we sussed it out (but you'd have saved me 30 mins of deduction if you were there ! )

    However the problem is that on the return stroke, the slide that nudges the ABT back into play gets pushed out by the notched rod too early, preventing closure of the lever. So we adjusted the slide using those two litte screws, but then it wouldn't releas at the begining of the retrun stroke. In the middle kinda worked sometimes, then not at all.

    So I think that the problerm is the dog that pushes the notched rod backwards and forwards is being pushed slightly too far forwards before it is "left behind" by the comp tube - something to do with the interface between the comp tube and the rear part of the mechanism...
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Garvin View Post
    Yes, that's the one.

    I just found a much better damper rebuild pictorial than mine. You can see the washer at 2.08.
    Thats the fella I'm getting the service kit from. For the cork washer I'm going to make two very thin delrin washers with a smear of silicon sticking them together for some shock absorbancy.
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    I just love 'em these Star Wars rifles. Especially the way the whole trigger block removes intact, why don't they all strip like that, and of course the lovely way they shoot.

    Baz
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