if there is a cocking slot there is every chance the stones will catch and totally screw the cylinder.
May have a high point in compression area of cylinder . Difficult to see but I can feel a sticking point when inserting piston and seal at one place within cylinder compression area.
I've just spotted these brake cylinder hones and they arnt a lot of money.
It's only an air pistol cylinder so not a long reach either. Has anyone experiance of these and do you thing it's a appropriate too for such a job .
Or has anyone any other suggestions before I try obtain a replacement cylinder .
Thanks
if there is a cocking slot there is every chance the stones will catch and totally screw the cylinder.
you'll be fine if you start it and stop it past the cocking slot,use plenty of oil on it though.
As above and in my other post ... that is what I used but when the subject has been raised before, several people said that a hone would not do a good job. But as stated ... start and stop the hone away from the slot.
Cheers, Phil
Try this, Martin.
http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....55#post6212355
A brake hone is not really the best tool for the job.
All the best Mick
I was just in the garage looking at what I have with a close to 28 mm dia.
I'm not ruling out the brake hone but if I can work something else a little safer than me with a electric drill and brake Horner that would be sensible.
Any thoughts on a dowel wrapped in emery or wet and dry well oiled just rotated with a gentle forward backward motion by electric drill.
Scorpion cylinders seem to go for around a tenner on the bay, and this is unnusual problem, so you are quite unlikely to get another "dud"...
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
You need to see if its out of round first , or if its picked up in one area , ideally you need to measure it in a few places ( I use a telescopic gauge and a micrometer) If its only in one small area that's shorter than your brake hone stones , the stones will follow the good part and you will be ok,
Proper honing tools have extra ally legs that support the tool and follow the bore so you get it all true and round , they are surprisingly easy to use but you do need good measuring equipment, for the sizeing.
I have used a snap on brake hone on several springer rebuilds. It works fine but as above you cannot allow it to spin over the cocking slot. I keep it lubed with wd40.
I dont think it would do a great job of machining down a bump. I have a couple of large adjustable reamers that would do a good job of this. I live in wilmslow if you are near this area, shoot in oldham occasionally and also drive to london every 6 weeks.
If this may be of use to you then pm me your cylinder bore diameter and ill check my reamers.
Im going to get a second opinion on this before I decide what to do. I really don't want to put anyone out especialy if it's just me missing the obvious although I doubt it .
If it does look like its in need of reaming or such like I may have to ask if one of you guys who could do this would be so kind as to do it for me at my full expense and risk .
It's got me that frustrated as the cylinder is in excellent cosmetic condition and doubt IDE get a spare as clean cheaply .
Feeling peed off & frustrated .
if you're going to get it fettled , get it professionally honed .
the proper kit with a skilled operator will get the bore straight and round to within microns and to a consistent finish ........proper honing is a real precision operation .
the equipment that has been mentioned here .....the 2 and 3 legged types, are more for cleaning up a bore or breaking a glaze on a bore that is already true.
if you're interested google .....
sunnen or delapena honing eqpt ....that's what the pros use.
don't jump in, have a read up
delapena is what we used to use at work