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Thread: Sheridan Valve Extraction Tool ?

  1. #1
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    Sheridan Valve Extraction Tool ?

    Hi folks.

    Having machined up a tool and removed the valve locknut from my new to me Silverstreak, I now find I need an extraction tool to pull out the exhaust valve body and I was wondering if anyone knew of anywhere in the UK sells such an item ?

    If there isn't one available I'll just have to buy a 9/32 X 32 tap and make one myself, but I thought I'd ask you knowledgeable gentlemen first.




    All the best Mick

  2. #2
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    Terry Robb, maybe?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
    Terry Robb, maybe?
    Thank you, Geezer.

    I shall take a look.



    Edit :- sold out, and silly money when they're in at £38






    All the best Mick

  4. #4
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    Sheridan Valve tool

    Nick carters blog has a picture of the part you need about half way down page (another sheridan), I had an original factory set sent from Racine cost about $20.00 or thereabouts (in 1979 ish). It was a 5 piece set made of mild steel, a mate of mine used it in the writing of a couple of articles in one of the comics of the day. Sadly some scrote nicked the set when we were burgled, caught him but his mates made off with spoils, never got em back.
    If you are looking for sheet lead to make the valve seals (only lead really seals the inside) get a roll of code 4 as code 3 is too thin.
    HTH
    H

  5. #5
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    Got my extractor from the U.S.A. £10, has the square key and internal thread. You can use synthetic material to replace the lead seal, believe Lawrie uses polyurethane, Robb also supplies synthetic seal.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOMER View Post
    Nick carters blog has a picture of the part you need about half way down page (another sheridan), I had an original factory set sent from Racine cost about $20.00 or thereabouts (in 1979 ish). It was a 5 piece set made of mild steel, a mate of mine used it in the writing of a couple of articles in one of the comics of the day. Sadly some scrote nicked the set when we were burgled, caught him but his mates made off with spoils, never got em back.
    If you are looking for sheet lead to make the valve seals (only lead really seals the inside) get a roll of code 4 as code 3 is too thin.
    HTH
    H

    Thank you, Homer.

    Was your friend who wrote the article called Dominic Lourdet (?) perchance ?

    It's a great shame some scrotes stole your tooling, as it would be doutful that they'd have any idea what it was for.

    I regularly read Nick's excellent blog and this is of course the tool I need :-

    http://lh3.ggpht.com/_aNjK3CTQ0DE/TC...015%5B2%5D.jpg

    Essentially I could easily make this from a piece of threaded rod, once I get a 9/32 X 32 tap, which I've found for sale on the net at just £3.

    And as Baz has pointed out I could replace the lead seals with engineering plastics, apparently Tim McMurry uses O rings throughout the valve now.


    Once I get the Sheridan sorted I just have my Setra and a couple Crosman 140s to reseal in order to have all my pumpers up and running.





    All the best Mick

  7. #7
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    man, sounds like it wasn't designed for simple home servicing.. like modern cars. Dread to think of the garage bills when I have to buy a more modern car and everything needs it be plugged into a £50k diagnostic computer just to change the spark plus Reckon my Izuzu will go for another 5 years easy though; then again if I don't worry about the cosmetics, it could last forever - bit like your rangie
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  8. #8
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    Sheridan tool

    Dennis Baker(USA Website) has them for twelve dollars.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor1 View Post
    Dennis Baker(USA Website) has them for twelve dollars.
    I did look at those, Trevor.

    But with the shipping listed at $31 within the US, I wasn't feeling brave enough to ask how much it was to send it across the pond.

    The other problem with the Baker tool is the lack of thread in order to gently remove the valve as used on the original factory tool.



    All the best Mick

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Budd View Post
    man, sounds like it wasn't designed for simple home servicing.. like modern cars. Dread to think of the garage bills when I have to buy a more modern car and everything needs it be plugged into a £50k diagnostic computer just to change the spark plus Reckon my Izuzu will go for another 5 years easy though; then again if I don't worry about the cosmetics, it could last forever - bit like your rangie
    Just don't say coil packs to me Jon.

  11. #11
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    Sorted

    Well folks, I no longer need a Sheridan valve extractor.

    Half an hour after postman Pat delivered a 9/32" X 32 tap to me today, I'd made this :-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...sil35z4i9.jpeg

    Looks just like the factory jobbie doesn't it ? , but it worked a treat.

    In the machined end of the 12mm allthread is a 9/32" threaded hole that screwed very nicely onto the back of the valve.
    After fitting the washer and nut, I tightened the nut and the valve pulled out without any drama whatsoever.:-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...sukpibsak.jpeg


    Looking at the valve setup the inlet valve is shot, so I'll just make a new rubber disc to fit it.
    The exhaust valve was sealing but on looking through my parts box I found that the valve from a Crosman 2250AS was a perfect copy of the Sheridan valve (Sheridan left Crosman right, above) so I'll probably fit a new Crosman valve when I reassemble it.
    The front rubber valveblock seal and rear valveblock lead seal will both be replaced with 1.5mm X 13mm ID O rings which will make future servicing a bit easier.


    Now does anyone know what size thread is on the back of a Setra valve ?





    All the best Mick

  12. #12
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    Job Done

    By way of a finish to my efforts.

    Having a little bit of time this afternoon I thought I'd better get my finger out and put my Silverstreak back together.
    All I needed to complete the rebuild was the small rubber washer that fits on the inlet valve, so I got out my trusty Wallace rubber hardness tester and checked a few rubber automotive products to find a replacement.
    It turned out that a rubber tax disc holder was about the same hardness as a 70 shore O ring, so it was game on.

    Inlet valve rubber top right :-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...sbje3etlv.jpeg


    On taking the tax disc holder apart I found it had two rows of holes inside which were the right size for the inlet valve :-


    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...svwxoeq7b.jpeg


    So I fitted a piece of the tax disc holder onto the inlet valve brass backing piece and cut round it, and after reassembling the gun with a new Crosman 2250AS exhaust valve and a couple of new O rings I now have a working Silverstreak.


    Total cost of rebuild - £13.20 (9/32 x 32 tap + postage)






    All the best Mick
    Last edited by T 20; 06-10-2016 at 06:40 PM.

  13. #13
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    Well done Mick, hope the seals give good service. If you get any problems in the future the little seal you made are usually made of polyurethane on most air and CO2 guns. This is because they are forced under a lot of pressure against the metal valve seat and get deformed quickly if made of rubber, especially if any oil gets on them. I make them with a core cutter on the lathe and slice them off with a scalpel, as shown me by Lawrie Amatruda. Most of the polyurethane seals are in the 90 + Shore A hardness range.

    Regards, Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    Well done Mick, hope the seals give good service. If you get any problems in the future the little seal you made are usually made of polyurethane on most air and CO2 guns. This is because they are forced under a lot of pressure against the metal valve seat and get deformed quickly if made of rubber, especially if any oil gets on them. I make them with a core cutter on the lathe and slice them off with a scalpel, as shown me by Lawrie Amatruda. Most of the polyurethane seals are in the 90 + Shore A hardness range.

    Regards, Baz


    Cheers Baz.

    I was in two minds whether to use polyurethane or not, but decided on using rubber as it keeps things simple and near enough factory original.

    I'll probably experiment with polyurethane seals on my Setra when I get around to it, though I may just have a little time off from playing with pumpers for a while having just rebuilt my Sportsman MK2, Titan Mohawk, 2 Crosman 140s and the Silverstreak.

    I must get back on to sorting some Boingers out.




    All the best Mick

  15. #15
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    This thread has inspired me to strip down my Benjamin 347
    Found this on YouTube
    https://youtu.be/in1fdJC82Go

    May be of interest to others?

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