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Thread: Gem/Jewel trigger housing removal query

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Swansea
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    Gem/Jewel trigger housing removal query

    Hi! I've got an old Gem rifle that used to be the black and nickel version a very long time ago I believe. I've doing all kinds of strange fixes on it for a friend/customer but now it has a cocking problem as in it won't cock, the sear must be worn and need some possible filing and adjustment but I can't get it out of the body. I've ground down the flattened pin heads very carefully with a Dremell on both sides now but they just won't budge. I don't have a press so I've only been using a mallet and pin drift but I'm starting to wonder if there's something else going on here that I might have missed or not seen before. I remember you guys very kindly helped me out with information on this rifle before so I was hoping you could please help me again as I promised this guy I'd get it back to him this week, now I'm stuck or rather the pins seem to be. Cheers!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Christchurch
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    4,849
    Just a thought, are you sure it is a pin that had flattened heads or was it a long screw with an opposing locking screw with their grooves filed off. I had an old rifle that had this kind of assembly cross screw holding it together.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Swansea
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    33
    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    Just a thought, are you sure it is a pin that had flattened heads or was it a long screw with an opposing locking screw with their grooves filed off. I had an old rifle that had this kind of assembly cross screw holding it together.

    Baz
    The ends of the pins were still dome shaped, worn down but not enough to have left no trace of a groove I'd have thought. Had this problem with an AR15 trigger guard before, I was informed it was spring loaded and that I must have not inserted the spring which was why it was stuck, I hacksawed the pin in half with a jeweller's saw (between the receiver and the guard) only to find out it was a flathead grub screw, not spring loaded at all and I'd mistakenly thought it was an Allen grub screw; c'est la vie. That's a good tip to know though, thank you!

    Gem "pin heads" before:









    And now after careful dremelling:







    Can't I post images yet? Would make it a lot easier for you guys.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    weymouth
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    2,986
    They are not screws...definitely just drift pins...and you only need to remove one pin to remove the sear - the last pin nearest the butt-end of the cylinder.

    These pins take a lot of force on them and are often are kinked in the middle section where it passes through the sear body because of this...best bet is to use a pin punch and steel hammer to shock it loose.
    blah blah

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Bristol
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    1,116
    Hello, forgive me if this is being silly but have you tried the trigger adjusting screw and checked the small spring in the trigger/sear, and is there a possibility that the main, particularly if it is not an original, spring is coil bound .
    The pins can take a fair swipe to move and a good quality pin punch and steel hammer is a must. As is firmly supporting the rifle so that it dosn't 'bounce'.
    ATB.
    Geoff.
    Just had a look at the pictures and they look like the original pins. They have a 'mushroom' head that means the head has a larger diameter than the stem, which is why they need a firm clout.
    Last edited by Geoff555; 08-10-2016 at 09:37 PM. Reason: Added about the pins.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Christchurch
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    shovel, you are posting images in the correct manner via a hosting site, imgur is one of the easiest. You cannot attach images directly to your posts, only on the sales section.

    Regards, Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    weymouth
    Posts
    2,986
    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff555 View Post
    Hello, forgive me if this is being silly but have you tried the trigger adjusting screw and checked the small spring in the trigger/sear, and is there a possibility that the main, particularly if it is not an original, spring is coil bound .
    The pins can take a fair swipe to move and a good quality pin punch and steel hammer is a must. As is firmly supporting the rifle so that it dosn't 'bounce'.
    ATB.
    Geoff.
    Just had a look at the pictures and they look like the original pins. They have a 'mushroom' head that means the head has a larger diameter than the stem, which is why they need a firm clout.
    Good point about trigger adjusting screw, Geoff. Also worth checking that the main cylinder pinch bolt isn't cranked up too tight either, which will have the effect of squeezing the end of slots that the cocking shoe runs in, thus limiting its travel at the end of the cocking stroke...
    blah blah

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