Here's how I do my cases with Stainless steel media. - Perfect results.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcyAkj-LzA8
Here's how I do my cases with Stainless steel media. - Perfect results.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcyAkj-LzA8
Thanks for that. I replied yesterday but for some reason post is not appearing. I've watched the video and your cases are much, much cleaner than mine. The ultrasonic? cleaner looks quicker and I think I might try that next. Is the one shown made specifically for case cleaning or a general purpose unit? The tumbler and pins look good to, if going that route wheres a good place to look for them?
I've tried ultrasonic cleaning and although it works it's not as efficient (IMO) as the pin method. I would suggest save the money and put it into a wet tumbler.
These can be brought new (such as from SPUD1967) or look out for a used rock polisher (free adds etc)
ATB
James
Do the insides of the cases need to be clean?
I find a bit of carbon in the necks gives me more consistent seating pressure which must translate to more consistent neck tension, surely?
"An infinite number of monkeys banging away at type writers for an infinite period of time will eventually reproduce Hamlet" Thanks to discussion forums we now know this to be untrue.
Not really, I know some one who never cleaned the cases of his .357 or his .44 mag in the 15 years I know he was shooting those guns, he was well known for using pretty high loads (the safe side of high) and cannot have had more than 50 split cases (for .357 & .44 due to reloading fatigue of expanding and crimping) some of the cases had been reloaded over 30 times, all he did was clean the primer pocket and every so often check case length and debur.
Shiny brass is purely a cosmetic thing (out side at least) as long as they are clean (no grit or any thing) they will cycle from the mag into the chamber smooth as shiny brass.
Reloading powders are formulated to burn as clean as posable so carbon should be minimal, as long as the primer flash hole is clear and there's no obvious heavy carbon deposits then all should be well, every so often just turn the case upside down and give it a few taps on a bit of wood to knock loose carbon deposits out.
On a slightly difrent note, I have a tumbler and been very hard up for cash, I wash the walnut media, get a very fine mesh strainer (I was govern a big mixing bowl size one) clean the media in small batches, fill a bucket with water and 1/2 fill the strainer with media and place in the bucket overnight, at this point do not agitate, the media swells as it absorbs water, very fine bits and carbon will fall through, next morning agitate the soaked media while suspended in water, keep checking the water and change when black, as said very fine media will have fallen through, don't worry about it, after a few water changes it should be nearly clear, leave the media to drain in the strainer, when no more water drips out transfer to a old rosting tin and leave in a very warm place to dry out, this way the media lasts a lot longer and you only have to top up with new media.
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