TX 200 SR . down on power .

[scimitar]

Howdo gotta TX 200 SR MK 11 in 177 . only doing 550 FPS . what to do and how to do it . i know the TX 200 is easy to strip but what about a SR . Cheers??? HOLY

[Shed tuner]

Still easy. Just more fiddly. When you respring, get a longer spring and lose the steel Top Hat, it too heavy.

[hmangphilly]

which spring jon ?

and blimey .....have you wet the bed ?

[stillair1]

Hi Dave
When you strip it, be careful with the nylon bearing thingys. I seem to recall some of the bits for the sr are no longer a available.
Neil

[Phil Russell]

Buffer washers are the same as the breech seal O rings. I needed one of the small plastic 'discs' that separate the slide action from cylinder... I used 0.5mm ptfe sheet. The lock nuts on the slide can be a bit iffy ... just take care with them. Replacements are easily found on 'that site' under 'lock nuts' (can't remember 4mm or 5mm?).
Cheers, Phil

[Shed tuner]

which spring jon ?

and blimey .....have you wet the bed ?

Give it a few years

Nah, kids couldn't sleep, so they decided waking me up would help...

mainspring.. I meant that by losing the TH, you lose some preload, hence fitting a slightly longer spring to compensate.

[hmangphilly]

Jon would this rifle use the thicker wire MK1 / titan 9 type or the thinner wire mk 3 /titan 10 type spring ?

and what are you saying just junk the top hat altogether ????? or replace with much shallower and lighter one ?......sorry , i know it's all obvious to you ......but me ....well.....


holly let us know if need top hats and spacers , i can run you some off and give 'em to rob to pass along

[Shed tuner]

Jon would this rifle use the thicker wire MK1 / titan 9 type or the thinner wire mk 3 /titan 10 type spring ?

and what are you saying just junk the top hat altogether ????? or replace with much shallower and lighter one ?......sorry , i know it's all obvious to you ......but me ....well.....


holly let us know if need top hats and spacers , i can run you some off and give 'em to rob to pass along

throw the steel Th away.
use a thinner, lighter delrin one, but if the spring is a tight fit in the piston, not essential.

ref spring, Mk2s / SRs can be a fraction slammy, so in this rare instance, a somewhat shorter, stiffer spring makes sense (like the AA MK2 spring), i.e. 3.2mm. 3.0mm wire would be find with a stiffer wind. But a MK3 type spring (2.9mm, medium wind, large OD) would defo not have the power

[RobF]

Jon would this rifle use the thicker wire MK1 / titan 9 type or the thinner wire mk 3 /titan 10 type spring ?

and what are you saying just junk the top hat altogether ????? or replace with much shallower and lighter one ?......sorry , i know it's all obvious to you ......but me ....well.....


holly let us know if need top hats and spacers , i can run you some off and give 'em to rob to pass along

Eh? What?

Oh ok.

We could leave the bits like breadcrumbs along the shooting line next Sunday... here Holly Holly...

[scimitar]

Thanks all . i am a strip down virgin on springers . i am gonna get our club spring gun man to take it down and see what he say's . i will give you a shout Hmangphily if that is needed , thanks . as for Rob . go and cuddle your TX and say in a soothing voice " i won't let you down again " ??? HOLLY

[FPoole]

Take down is pretty simple. You don't need to remove the trigger guard on the SR as it slips up through the stock. Just remove the 2 fore end screws and the screw ahead of the guard. There are 2 screws recessed in the aluminum block that holds the trigger blade and guard in place. There are 2 lock nuts that hold the rail on the gun and these are the ones that will be fiddly to adjust the tension on the rail. Take it slow and easy and you should have no problem.

[scimitar]

What is needed is a strip down guide on you tube , like the one for the TX 200 . that would save a lot of hassel . anybody up for it ??? HOLLY

[Airsporter1st]

Buffer washers are the same as the breech seal O rings. I needed one of the small plastic 'discs' that separate the slide action from cylinder... I used 0.5mm ptfe sheet. The lock nuts on the slide can be a bit iffy ... just take care with them. Replacements are easily found on 'that site' under 'lock nuts' (can't remember 4mm or 5mm?).
Cheers, Phil

'Aerotight' nuts are recommended for the slide. They stay put far better than Nyloks.

[Phil Russell]

'Aerotight' nuts are recommended for the slide. They stay put far better than Nyloks.

True. And they are available on 'the site' alongside the more common lock nuts that have a plastic insert. But my experience is that aerotight are very good if you get the adjustment right the first time, but repeatedly fiddling with them can destroy their 'lock' properties. All is not lost though as if you remove a nut and carefuly nip up the locking end in a vice, the lock property can be restored. Plastic insert nuts may last a little longer but will still need replacing after much fiddling. I have often thought about using a mild loctite for this but never tried it. I see no reason why not ... has anyone else used it?
As for adjusting the slide, I used to adjust the nuts before finishing assembly of the action but there is a way to fine tune the slide once the action is fully assembled. I posted on here about it some time ago but basically you need one of those cheap spanners that you often get to assemble garden furniture or the like ... the ones made from flat steel sheet and just stamped out. By carefully bending the end and maybe with a bit of filing to alow the spanner to access the nuts, you can make a spanner so that you can tweak the lock nuts without taking the trigger mechanism off.
Cheers, Phil

[Airsporter1st]

True. And they are available on 'the site' alongside the more common lock nuts that have a plastic insert. But my experience is that aerotight are very good if you get the adjustment right the first time, but repeatedly fiddling with them can destroy their 'lock' properties. All is not lost though as if you remove a nut and carefuly nip up the locking end in a vice, the lock property can be restored. Plastic insert nuts may last a little longer but will still need replacing after much fiddling. I have often thought about using a mild loctite for this but never tried it. I see no reason why not ... has anyone else used it?
As for adjusting the slide, I used to adjust the nuts before finishing assembly of the action but there is a way to fine tune the slide once the action is fully assembled. I posted on here about it some time ago but basically you need one of those cheap spanners that you often get to assemble garden furniture or the like ... the ones made from flat steel sheet and just stamped out. By carefully bending the end and maybe with a bit of filing to alow the spanner to access the nuts, you can make a spanner so that you can tweak the lock nuts without taking the trigger mechanism off.
Cheers, Phil

I used Loctite on the nyloks that were on it when I bought it, but found the Aerotights to be more reliable. That said, I didn't fiddle with them - I set the slide according to AA's own instructions and left it there. Worked well.