Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Walther CP1

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    swanley
    Posts
    1,707
    Have you tried protek supplies in Bognor Regis, I got some bits for a CP2 inc the now nr impossible to find dry fire switch, I also recently picked up a piston for an LG55 which really is rocking horse xxxx,

    Worth a try, he may what your looking for

    ATB
    Nige
    Steyr LP10, Steyr LP5,
    Vintage Collection - Walther LP53, HW77k Venom, BSF S20 Match, Original 35, ASI Target plus lots more

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Bognor Regis
    Posts
    1,165
    I had to make a service tool for my CP2 cylinders although it doesn't quite fit the CP5 cylinder I tried it with. Its only a little filing required though.
    FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at

  3. #3
    RobinC's Avatar
    RobinC is offline Awesome Shooting Coach and Author.
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Gt Yarmouth
    Posts
    1,319
    Bob
    I used a 14 mm across flats bolt in the valve, with nuts double locked on the thread, and a big socket wrench, they did turn, and it would have been better with the nuts welded.

    My other problem was the hex on the end of the cylinder had been butchered so I had to clamp that in a vice.

    But I did get it out with a touch of warmth.
    Walther KK500 Alutec expert special - Barnard .223 "wilde" in a Walther KK500 Alutec stock, mmm...tasty!! - Keppeler 6 mmBR with Walther grip and wood! I may be a Walther-phile?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Bognor Regis
    Posts
    1,165
    It is a lot easier to just unscrew the valve assembly. I turned down a hex rod until it fitted inside the 'o'ring I then milled the top away to leave a short screwdriver blade that had parallel sides and just fitted in the slot. Finally i milled away the middle of the blade to provide clearance for the valve pin. I put it into a vice blade up and gentally tap the cylinder over it. it is then not too difficult to unscrew the valve and clean the sealing surfaces.
    FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Rossendale and Formby
    Posts
    5,596
    Quote Originally Posted by Bjacobs571 View Post
    It is a lot easier to just unscrew the valve assembly. I turned down a hex rod until it fitted inside the 'o'ring I then milled the top away to leave a short screwdriver blade that had parallel sides and just fitted in the slot. Finally i milled away the middle of the blade to provide clearance for the valve pin. I put it into a vice blade up and gentally tap the cylinder over it. it is then not too difficult to unscrew the valve and clean the sealing surfaces.


    We only want to remove the valve assembly and fit new seals to the valves.

    The first three have already been done and are holding gas - no problem - but we have one valve that will not shift at all so we may have to make something like you have done so we can give it a little more heavy duty persuasion
    Rossendale Target Shooting Club. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening 7 - 10pm.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Bognor Regis
    Posts
    1,165
    Some pictures of my tool and valve bits
    https://flic.kr/p/Q2i5pj
    FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Rossendale and Formby
    Posts
    5,596
    Quote Originally Posted by Bjacobs571 View Post
    Some pictures of my tool and valve bits
    https://flic.kr/p/Q2i5pj

    Thanks for the link - that looks like a good substantial bit of kit.

    I will take a look around the workshop to see if I can find some suitable steel hex bar and knock something up along similar lines.

    Did you "temper" the two "lugs" that are used to locate and twist the valve - or was the steel strong enough to be left raw after machining?
    Rossendale Target Shooting Club. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening 7 - 10pm.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Rossendale and Formby
    Posts
    5,596
    [QUOTE=RobinC;7142141]Bob
    I used a 14 mm across flats bolt in the valve, with nuts double locked on the thread, and a big socket wrench, they did turn, and it would have been better with the nuts welded.

    My other problem was the hex on the end of the cylinder had been butchered so I had to clamp that in a vice.

    But I did get it out with a touch of warmth.[/QUOTE)

    Hi Robin,

    We already have a device knocked up like that but we just want to unscrew and remove the valve - not remove the end cap from the cylinder.

    The three cylinders that have had their valves removed and re-sealed are holding gas and working well - it is only this last one that is proving to be a bit reluctant to take a look at the outside world!
    Rossendale Target Shooting Club. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening 7 - 10pm.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •