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Thread: Walther CP1

  1. #1
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    Walther CP1

    I passed my Walther CP1 with a small fault on to a fellow club member as a project to keep him amused over the winter months.

    The pistol is really nice and has its original and correct Walther hard case with matching numbers on the end labels, original test certificate and handbook, 3 cylinders ( plus one of my own to service) and a rather nice Derek Gent grip made from an exceptionally well selected piece of figured walnut.

    An original sales brochures and receipt with a Walther parts diagram are also present and the pistol was a genuine UK import supplied by Accuracy International ( original authenticity documents included) - so it is well worth the effort to keep it alive and in active service.

    One week later the pistol is shooting superbly well with a lovely trigger feel. So much for a winter project!!

    However - making a suitable tool to remove and service two of the spare cylinders has proven to be more of a problem. The first two of the cylinders had their valves unscrewed for service and a re-seal and are now both working as they should but the other two are not too keen to unscrew and need something a bit tougher than a modified screw driver blade to shift them.

    Does anyone have a genuine Walther service tool for this job they would consider selling or lending or have a picture of one that I can use to make a copy of one by any chance?

    Also, if anyone is able to let us know if they are aware of any dealer that holds any of the CP1 spare parts we would be pleased to hear from you. We have the part number for one part that has been successfully repaired but would like to find an original part if possible.

    It is good to see this reasonably rare CP1 pistol back in active service at RMTC and with a happy new owner who I know will take good care of it and give it plenty of regular exercise.
    Last edited by zooma; 10-12-2016 at 08:41 AM.
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  2. #2
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    Have you tried protek supplies in Bognor Regis, I got some bits for a CP2 inc the now nr impossible to find dry fire switch, I also recently picked up a piston for an LG55 which really is rocking horse xxxx,

    Worth a try, he may what your looking for

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    Nige
    Steyr LP10, Steyr LP5,
    Vintage Collection - Walther LP53, HW77k Venom, BSF S20 Match, Original 35, ASI Target plus lots more

  3. #3
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    I had to make a service tool for my CP2 cylinders although it doesn't quite fit the CP5 cylinder I tried it with. Its only a little filing required though.
    FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at

  4. #4
    RobinC's Avatar
    RobinC is offline Awesome Shooting Coach and Author.
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    Bob
    I used a 14 mm across flats bolt in the valve, with nuts double locked on the thread, and a big socket wrench, they did turn, and it would have been better with the nuts welded.

    My other problem was the hex on the end of the cylinder had been butchered so I had to clamp that in a vice.

    But I did get it out with a touch of warmth.
    Walther KK500 Alutec expert special - Barnard .223 "wilde" in a Walther KK500 Alutec stock, mmm...tasty!! - Keppeler 6 mmBR with Walther grip and wood! I may be a Walther-phile?

  5. #5
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    It is a lot easier to just unscrew the valve assembly. I turned down a hex rod until it fitted inside the 'o'ring I then milled the top away to leave a short screwdriver blade that had parallel sides and just fitted in the slot. Finally i milled away the middle of the blade to provide clearance for the valve pin. I put it into a vice blade up and gentally tap the cylinder over it. it is then not too difficult to unscrew the valve and clean the sealing surfaces.
    FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at

  6. #6
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    [QUOTE=RobinC;7142141]Bob
    I used a 14 mm across flats bolt in the valve, with nuts double locked on the thread, and a big socket wrench, they did turn, and it would have been better with the nuts welded.

    My other problem was the hex on the end of the cylinder had been butchered so I had to clamp that in a vice.

    But I did get it out with a touch of warmth.[/QUOTE)

    Hi Robin,

    We already have a device knocked up like that but we just want to unscrew and remove the valve - not remove the end cap from the cylinder.

    The three cylinders that have had their valves removed and re-sealed are holding gas and working well - it is only this last one that is proving to be a bit reluctant to take a look at the outside world!
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bjacobs571 View Post
    It is a lot easier to just unscrew the valve assembly. I turned down a hex rod until it fitted inside the 'o'ring I then milled the top away to leave a short screwdriver blade that had parallel sides and just fitted in the slot. Finally i milled away the middle of the blade to provide clearance for the valve pin. I put it into a vice blade up and gentally tap the cylinder over it. it is then not too difficult to unscrew the valve and clean the sealing surfaces.


    We only want to remove the valve assembly and fit new seals to the valves.

    The first three have already been done and are holding gas - no problem - but we have one valve that will not shift at all so we may have to make something like you have done so we can give it a little more heavy duty persuasion
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  8. #8
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    Some pictures of my tool and valve bits
    https://flic.kr/p/Q2i5pj
    FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bjacobs571 View Post
    Some pictures of my tool and valve bits
    https://flic.kr/p/Q2i5pj

    Thanks for the link - that looks like a good substantial bit of kit.

    I will take a look around the workshop to see if I can find some suitable steel hex bar and knock something up along similar lines.

    Did you "temper" the two "lugs" that are used to locate and twist the valve - or was the steel strong enough to be left raw after machining?
    Rossendale Target Shooting Club. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening 7 - 10pm.

  10. #10
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    Because the lugs are a good fit in the valve ,they are short quite thick and have a good square profile ( as they were milled not filed) I didn't need to heat treat them.
    It is possible to use round bar as long as you can machine flats on the bar so you can grip them in a vice.
    FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bjacobs571 View Post
    Because the lugs are a good fit in the valve ,they are short quite thick and have a good square profile ( as they were milled not filed) I didn't need to heat treat them.
    It is possible to use round bar as long as you can machine flats on the bar so you can grip them in a vice.
    Thanks for your reply.

    As soon as I can clear a space in my workshop (that is currently housing lots of stuff from my old unit that I have just had to clear out ) I will see what bar stock I have lurking about and knock something up.
    Rossendale Target Shooting Club. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening 7 - 10pm.

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