Registered User
The only issue I have found with my Crossman 102 has been a old cork washer that goes between the stock and receiver. It was old and no longer performing as it should. I noticed my stock was slightly canted to one side because the washer was no longer doing its job. (Info from Mr. Fletcher on a old post on another site) Also when pumping, the stock could rotate and not stay in alinement. I found online where a guy had made a cork replacement but I had just bought a lot of scrap leather to make seals and I thought leather actually might work well. Made a two piece gasket, one perfectly fit into the receiver space, the other matched the profile of the stock. Glued them together with E6000 glue. Made a great buffer that I think may work better than the cork factory ones. Could thin it further like they did the cork ones but may just dye it a more matching brown. Took pic now cause its easy too see it as is. I have been amazed how accurate these guns are, and the peep site has given my cataract lens replaced eyes a new lease on life.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...pswoendii9.jpg
Here is grouping from last night indoors, 20 ft?, the one on the left is not a flyer but a .177 pellet from another pistol. I really wasn't trying that hard, the peep site is very intuitive.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps7hnjpxxa.jpg
Last edited by 45flint; 02-01-2017 at 02:50 PM.
Registered User
would look better thinner or dyed but still looks good and one of the things I need to do on mine as it's missing on mine ,but I'm not sure the stock on mine is original to the gun as it's a poor fit width wise to the receiver but I have seen other's that are equally as bad, just in a time when they were hand made I can't see a fit like it being acceptable
Registered User
Have you a spare for sale?;-) i take it the first step is sitting inside the receiver.giving stability???regards,Trev
Registered User
Evidently from a post from Fletcher there was a period when cork seals were used and later they eliminated them. When you say your stock does not fit, it is too wide and seems like it a stock for a different gun, I think that is normal for a cork seal gun. Mine is exactly as you describe, oversized, but when it came from the factory it was the cork seal that made it fit. The metal receiver I think laid on the cork seal which was on the stock. you need the stock a little oversized to do this. I duplicated this with my leather seal. See pic and how it slightly stands out from the receiver.Originally Posted by --ped--
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...psirs0buzr.jpg
The leather compresses just like the cork, but I think may be superior, but time will tell. What I noticed with my gun and many others on the net, without a seal the wood is stressed when pumping and can chip. Mine showed this but the leather seal now protects it. One reason I may keep it thicker than factory. See pic below:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps7hf1xfv1.jpg
All the above is my theory, from reading a lot of internet posts. I could be wrong but I feel confident my seal works and protects my gun. Just pumped it up today with no issues, no turning or twisting, rock solid.
Last edited by 45flint; 02-01-2017 at 11:43 PM.
Registered User
Trev, Here is a pic of the spacer off the gun. I glued the spacer to the stock, I believe the cork spacer were as well, but even if they weren't, I think this is necessary for total lockup. As you can see the inner spacer is another piece of leather shaped like the inner receiver and glued to the larger part attached to the stock. You can see from the impression of the metal crossbar of the receiver in the leather, the compression is right against it. Hope that helps. That pic below is worth a lot of words:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps9oxzuwy3.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...psgrbgisxz.jpg
Last edited by 45flint; 03-01-2017 at 01:07 AM.
Registered User
mine should have a cork gasket i'll look at making one or see if jg carry them and get one next time I order along with the pivot pin retainer I forgot to get this order,but the tube it looks like it's slightly countersunk so originally it may have had a pin with screws either side like I'm told the first ones did
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...psxfmdoksq.jpg
The Chrono Slayer
Hi Ped
Nice to see you on here mate
A fella that I know has a a nice old mod 101, He's not averse to selling a few of his guns, I tried buying his 101- No chance!!
He said the barrel was kaput when he bought it, He machined a Meteor barrel fit somehow, Must say, These are lovely old guns!!
John
for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/
Registered User
Leather should be fine for the spacer. Pretty sure that I posted the original factory spec for this with an outline of the part. You are right that many stocks ended up cracked from the user over tightening the stock bolt due to missing spacer.
Accuracy is what made these guns so popular. They simply work. To my mind, the industry has had a hard time duplicating the accuracy of these old timers. I think part of that accuracy is the heavy duty brass barrel, plus, of course, the natural recoilless action.
Registered User
Very neatly done!
Registered User
For those who want to do original cork, here is a pic. I found of a gun that shows a partial cork gasket and you can see how they thinned it out on the edges. The last pic is the gasket from my gun. The thin edges all gone, not protecting the wood any more. I am pretty convinced that the leather is a better more durable alternative but for those that want everything original this might be useful if your cork is completely gone. If you want a working gun this gasket is pretty necessary as the cocking puts a lot of stain on that joint, my stock suffered from the previous owner not replacing it.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...psf7gm9x7c.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...psgagup4ou.jpg
Last edited by 45flint; 05-01-2017 at 03:26 AM.
Registered User
I can see the gasket may add a buffer when pumping if you hold the gun by the stock wrist but tbh on all my pumpers I hold by the receiver as by holding by the stock wrist it puts too much strain on that area of the stock especially on the 101's and the later 760's which are bolted there
I've got a sharps ace that has had to be repaired at the wrist and I bet it was because a previous owner was holding it there and probably over pumping it
Registered User
On the 102, I can see no other place to hold it effectively except for the stock wrist? The sight is on top of the receiver and can be moved and I thought the top of the barrel more problematic? This is my first pumper and I was surprised that the first 3 pumps put in the largest part of the charge. I am getting 460 FPS with 3 pumps and with no real effort. 6 pumps puts me at 550 but those extra 3 get tuffer. I'm not going past 6 I think that was in the old instructions. Doubt I will go higher than 3 very often for my needs and that's virtually no strain on me or the gun.
Last edited by 45flint; 05-01-2017 at 02:03 PM.
Registered User
My suggestion on pumping is to use your head, i.e. when the pumping gets hard... stop. The only reason for stopping is wear and tear on the pump mechanism.
Also, be sure to lube the 3 pivot points of the pump. Only use Crosman oil or, as with MAC-1's "secret sauce" oil, heavyweight motorcycle fork oil.
Registered User
interesting that Mac1's secret sauce is fork oil
the topic came up on the GTA and secret sauce is claimed to be hydraulic oil with wear additives but that would fit with fork oil as it's basicly a form of hydraulic oil
Registered User
Got this info directly from the source. The brand was something like Bell-Ray and it was the highest wt possible, something like 50wt, which as it turned out is not easy to find. According to Tim, it's better than Crosman since it never gums up over time.
Oil has to be a type comparable with hydraulic systems, since that's essentially what a pneumatic gun is.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
