Umarex Walther and spare parts.

[Arthur John Smithsplease]

There seems to be no provision for the ordering of spare parts on the Umarex website, and I have experienced difficulty in getting a replacement trigger shell for my LGV (Armex just happened to be able to help me out).

I understand that getting spares from Germany is not easy. Can anyone confirm this?

I have a synthetic stock on my LGV, and would like to buy a replacement in wood.

Availability of spares would seem to me to be an essential part of customer support.

[PCPShooter]

there seems to be no provision for the ordering of spare parts on the umarex website, and i have experienced difficulty in getting a replacement trigger shell for my lgv (armex just happened to be able to help me out).

I understand that getting spares from germany is not easy. Can anyone confirm this?

I have a synthetic stock on my lgv, and would like to buy a replacement in wood.

Availability of spares would seem to me to be an essential part of customer support.

yes - mentioned a lot with walther stuff .....

[Arthur John Smithsplease]

Perhaps their stuff is meant to be disposable.

[Artfull-Bodger]

I bought an LGV piston off the German website.

[Arthur John Smithsplease]

Yes, those seem to be widely available, but not much else.

[Barryg]

I have experienced difficulty in getting a replacement trigger shell for my LGV (Armex just happened to be able to help me out).

I was wondering why you would have wanted a trigger shell replacement

[Arthur John Smithsplease]

I had endless problems with my trigger refusing to release after 50 or 60 shots, and had to open the shell countless times to reset it. Others have experienced this problem I believe.

Because the shell is alloy and the screws are steel, the thread eventually gave up the ghost.

And no, I wasn't heavy handed with the screwdriver.

Fortunately the trigger now works properly.

[PCPShooter]

Hopefully it never works out the other way round

[Artfull-Bodger]

Arthur have you identified which component is moving out of spec to stop the trigger working?

[Vernal]

I had endless problems with my trigger refusing to release after 50 or 60 shots, and had to open the shell countless times to reset it. Others have experienced this problem I believe.

Because the shell is alloy and the screws are steel, the thread eventually gave up the ghost.

And no, I wasn't heavy handed with the screwdriver.

Fortunately the trigger now works properly.

Bit late to help now, but might help in the future. I had the same problem with mine while making a new improved geometry blade, but I found it is quite easy to drill the stripped holes and tap them M5. Then take piece of 5mm brass rod, drill co-axially and tap M3. Now cut an M5 external thread on a length of the drilled and tapped rod, cut off a suitable length and insert with loctite into the shell, using an M3 screw and loctite to get it in. I did mine a year ago, it has been apart a few dozen times since, and the brass insert shows no signs of wear.

[PCPShooter]

Bit late to help now, but might help in the future. I had the same problem with mine while making a new improved geometry blade, but I found it is quite easy to drill the stripped holes and tap them M5. Then take piece of 5mm brass rod, drill co-axially and tap M3. Now cut an M5 external thread on a length of the drilled and tapped rod, cut off a suitable length and insert with loctite into the shell, using an M3 screw and loctite to get it in. I did mine a year ago, it has been apart a few dozen times since, and the brass insert shows no signs of wear.

Reads like an advert for HW & Diana LOL !

[Arthur John Smithsplease]

Bit late to help now, but might help in the future. I had the same problem with mine while making a new improved geometry blade, but I found it is quite easy to drill the stripped holes and tap them M5. Then take piece of 5mm brass rod, drill co-axially and tap M3. Now cut an M5 external thread on a length of the drilled and tapped rod, cut off a suitable length and insert with loctite into the shell, using an M3 screw and loctite to get it in. I did mine a year ago, it has been apart a few dozen times since, and the brass insert shows no signs of wear.

Don't have the tools or skill to do that, I'm afraid.

[UrbanFox]

Had an LGU, PITA looking for spares so traded it in for a HW97.

Bri

[Shedder]

I'm not surprised...
http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....her-RM8-Spares

Have you a link for "the german website" please?

[Arthur John Smithsplease]

Arthur have you identified which component is moving out of spec to stop the trigger working?

Sorry Bodger, but I don't really know how I did it.

I can tell you what steps I took if that helps.

First I ordered a complete set of shims from a model shop to tighten things up inside the unit. One on each end of the four pins. Got them for pennies from this place:

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/shim_washers.

Think it was 6mm diameter with 3mm holes for the three of the pins (six shims) and 12mm diametre 6mm hole for the other one (two shims). I got a set in 0.1mm thickness and another in 0.3mm. Think it was the 0.1mm ones I used.

Then I took a file and some wet and dry to remove some material from the bottom safety bar which slides past the trigger weight spring. There were scratches on the bar where it had come into contact with the spring.

Then I set up the trigger weight screw behind the blade to stick out by a couple of millimetre, and loctited with the blue stuff.

Cleaned out all grease and lubricated with a bit of decent quality gun oil- Napier.

I'm not saying that any of these things helped. It could just as easily have been a Gremlin in the unit giving up and going home.

Maybe worth a try though.