Help with a BSA Standard No 2 and who could service this?

[andrewM]

Thank you, Ed, for this valuable intervention. I have posted it on the other thread, too, so readers can benefit from your insights. It is as well that I raised the advice I received from the gunsmith here first and did not act on it.

I have checked the screws to the plate alongside the loading tap and they are tight.

I cleaned the barrel with a .22 cleaning rod sometime ago (with the loading tap up).

Yes, I have tried various pellets and still have some old Eley Wasps. It read 479 ft/sec today.

My practical abilities and lack of tools are such that I will not strip the weapon although I could open the loading tap, as that is quite simple.

Thank you for your advice - much appreciated.
A

[gingernut]

As Edbear indicates there are experts and people who think they are experts.

I suggest that you follow the advice given by Edbear Lakey and Phil Russel on this thread rather than
trying the alarming procedures suggested in your Post 12!

[andrewM]

Many thanks Gingernut.

The advice here is very good and I am pleased I discussed things here before proceeding with the theories of others. 20 years ago, before the internet, I would have been in the hands of the gunsmith. I had no idea that silicone was so damaging to metal.

Rgds
A

[harry mac]

If it's shooting accurately and smoothly, and you don't want it for hunting, why chase 11ft/lbs. Millions of Meteors, Diana 27s/G80s, Gamo, Haenels etc. etc. all run at about 8ft/lbs and are great back yard shooters.

[andrewM]

Thanks, Harry mac. Two reasons, really:

1 To bring it back to where it used to be, at the point of manufacture.
2 Because I wish to take occasional pots at rabbits in the garden.

Rgds
A

[Garvin]

2 Because I wish to take occasional pots at rabbits in the garden.

Rgds
A

By which you mean "eliminate pests with the most humane tool possible after exhausting other means of deterring them from eating my garden vegetables" - the legally compliant (and politically correct) version of what you said.

[Lakey]

Andrew it was good to talk to you last night. Sorry I had to cut it short for my tea

Just to clarify, the number that matched up with the tap is normally right up by the underlever pivot point, and is not normally visible until you remove the main underlever arm. The number on the tap needs to match the same number on its corresponding breech block. Number on the trigger block is different in a lot of cases.

Also I echo Edbears words about finding the right spring combination that is right for the gun. Just because your gun was rebuilt, doesnt mean that optimum parts were specially selected for the rebuild - in fact probably the opposite. Since money and time had already been spent on the re-furb, it is likely that the old used spring was put back into the gun before its sale. Most owners of these guns are not especially concerned with high levels of power. Sweet shooting cycles, leading to better accuracy are more important.

Trial and error will lead to you finding the right combination of lubrication, spring choice and pellet selection in order to obtain maximum accuracy. Dont forget the deep clean of the barrel, as chances are it will be the first time that the barrel may have been cleaned since manufacture.

Now that you have my contact details, ring me if you get stuck or need more info

Kind Regards

Andy