Spring change.

[where's it gone]

What rifle, in your opinion, is the easiest to do internal maintenance, seal, spring etc ?

[TonyL]

My little CZ Slavia 634 is RIDICULOUSLY easy....

Stock off (three screws), cocking lever swings away, push the trigger pin out, pull the blade-to-sear spring out, unscrew end cap....done.

TXs are very, very easy, too, although I've not done mine yet.

Most HWs are very easy too, Pete!

[lam007]

Got to be a TX or even a Prosport from what I have done so far

[Murphy]

AA are incredibly easy to strip.

[Phil Russell]

Diana 27 (prewar). On some you do not even have to take the stock off if you are careful.
TX series
HW77/97
LGU

Cheers, Phil

[The Squire]

TX200 for me, an absolute doddle

[TORNADOS7]

TX/Prosport every time, I can strip, fettle and reassemble my TXhc in about 10 minutes...

[Arthur John Smithsplease]

TX. Very easy.

The new Walthers. Almost as easy.

And the HW95, 98 and 99s, once you have learned how to remove the four pieces in the end block with a bent screwdriver. Quite easy.

The screw on end blocks on the 77, 97k and 80 are a little more difficult at first, and you are advised to use a spring compressor with these rifles.

[I. J.]

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Airs...?sort=6&page=1

HW35. Stock off (3 screws) two pins (trigger unit out) and then unscrew the end block. Ive also known some HW35/80s that dont need the trigger unit to come out.

HTH
Ian

[TonyL]

HW35. Stock off (3 screws) two pins (trigger unit out) and then unscrew the end block. Ive also known some HW35/80s that dont need the trigger unit to come out.

HTH
Ian

Indeedy, as we said last week, like one of my old 35s.

[Artfull-Bodger]

TX200, one screw and its apart!

[CLOGGER]

I'm with all the votes for the AA TX's. They're absolute simplicity itself and a real dream to work on.
Stock screws off, remove the anchor bolt holding the rear block and they're open - with minimal preload!
Clogger

[FPoole]

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Airs...?sort=6&page=1

HW35. Stock off (3 screws) two pins (trigger unit out) and then unscrew the end block. Ive also known some HW35/80s that dont need the trigger unit to come out.

HTH
Ian

Don't you have to remove the barrel to get the piston out? My 80 is this way and not in the same league as a TX as far as easy goes. Getting that spring back in on the 80 is also quite difficult, while trying to screw in the end block. Could be that a 12 ft. lb. version is easier than my FAC 80.

[Phil Russell]

Don't you have to remove the barrel to get the piston out? My 80 is this way and not in the same league as a TX as far as easy goes. Getting that spring back in on the 80 is also quite difficult, while trying to screw in the end block. Could be that a 12 ft. lb. version is easier than my FAC 80.

You need to release the cocking link to remove the piston but whether you do this by removing the barrel/breech at the cylinder or by removing a cocking link pivot pin I guess is up to you. I think I would opt to remove the barrel/breech and cocking link complete by separating the action at the breech bolt.

Cheers, Phil

[I. J.]

Don't you have to remove the barrel to get the piston out? My 80 is this way and not in the same league as a TX as far as easy goes. Getting that spring back in on the 80 is also quite difficult, while trying to screw in the end block. Could be that a 12 ft. lb. version is easier than my FAC 80.

Yes you do have to remove a pivot bolt to release the barrel but if this is beyond your capabilities - should you really be taking a gun apart?

Most sub 12 ft.lbs '80 should have little main spring preload.

ATB
Ian