I see Paul beat me to it!
I see Paul beat me to it!
Thanks again fellas, great info Wouldn't mind purchasing some proper targets but 3000 may be a bit much! Will give the hobbies a try, I think I have some Geccos too.
Plinkerer and Tinkerer
Something that I picked up with the 300 is that you should always make sure that the sled has moved forward and relocked itself before cocking again - if you cock the rifle with the sled in the rear position, I gather it wears something out prematurely. I now have the habit where as I bring the rifle down, I 'shake' the whole thing forward to do this. Anyone care to confirm or rubbish this tip?
maximus,
Download (free) and install SCATT Professional from :
http://www.scatt.com/downloads/70/downloads/
This will allow you to print a wide selection of targets, scaled to whatever distance you are shooting at - e.g. you can scale a 10 meter target to 6 yards etc.
(Menu Tools --> Print Target)
+1 on getting a copy of Mr. Carters book - it is so good I would sacrifice one of my bollocks for a copy if needed
Have fun & a good weekend
Best regards
Russ
Hi Russ, thanks for that, I will investigate and download. Cheers Max
Plinkerer and Tinkerer
In answer to several questions, ref. 300S rifles, yes you should 'tip' them after each shot see reply on another thread in this section. Traditional bell target face dimensions are:- centre hole 3/8" dia. then another ring [4] at 1" dia. then another [3] at 2" dia. and the last one [2] at 3" dia. then the last one [0] at 4" dia. the plate is 5" dia. The hole has a military connotation supposedly replicating a mans head at 100 yds. As for front sights, ring elements in metal [with cant bars] or plastic in assorted colours and sizes [ see Andy Lawrence's website for a mind blowing array] are the most common, being theoretically easier for the brain to assimilate a series of circles in line, but some people prefer post or blade elements, this is your personal choice so do not be influenced by others, make your choice and use it.
As a basis for size you have to use a little imagination for this explanation; use trigonometry to get the size of your aiming mark / black dot, at the distance of your front sight of the rifle from the target; put a square frame around this circle; work out the length of the corner to corner diagonal of the square and this is the minimum size of fore sight ring for that target. Having said that, some people will happily shoot bell with a 2mm ring while others use as much as 4.5 mm [ mine is 4mm] the objective is to be able to keep the aiming mark within the fore sight ring, not have a 'now you see it now you don't' scenario, so age, eyesight, ability all have abearing on it.
Hope this helps more than it confuses.
ATVB
abellringer
Max
To really learn you will have to buy my book, but I have emailed you one of my very basic Coaching notes on Aiming, hope it helps. If any one else would like it just e mail me.
The vaguaries of the correct aiming process is a very missunderstood subject.
Have Fun,
Robin
Walther KK500 Alutec expert special - Barnard .223 "wilde" in a Walther KK500 Alutec stock, mmm...tasty!! - Keppeler 6 mmBR with Walther grip and wood! I may be a Walther-phile?