Tap Lapping

[T 20]

Boring job, isn't it ?



Ah well, nearly there.




All the best Mick

[Rickenbacker]

Got n e pix m80?

[Shed tuner]

use gravel

[T 20]

Got n e pix m80?

There's not much to show really, Phil.

The .177" tap was half a hole out, so I started with 400 grit grinding paste which was taking too long so I changed to 120 grit paste.
When I was getting near to alignment I swapped back to 120 grit then finished off with Solvo Autosol polish --- what a fun two hours that lot was.

Then I spent the rest of afternoon fettling every single part of the underlever and linkage to end up with this :-

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...sifx7w6un.jpeg

[Shed tuner]

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...sifx7w6un.jpeg

Is that an "improved" Airsporter then ?

[Rickenbacker]

Well, I like the floor tiles Mick...

[Peter Dunkley]

I do hope you realize there's a bit missing,

[edbear2]

Boring job, isn't it ?



Ah well, nearly there.




All the best Mick

Could be worse Mick, back in the day it was a full time job for some folk! .....That's engineering mind, I knew old guys in the early 1970's that had done 30 years or more on the same machine.

I used to hate capstan work where you got 2-300 small componants in one batch, easy to lose concentration as a youngster back then and a few fingers at the same time! (It was piecework so everyone was working like madmen to make a few extra bob...They had a piecework centreless grinding section too and I don't think anybody working there had a full compliment of digits ).

Kids today etc. etc.....

ATB, Ed

P.S....Is the sporter block the same thread?...Have never tried what you have there, but had thought about a Mercury back end so I could put a Standard action into a BSA / Parker Hale Safari type centrefire stock blank I have and make a vintage Stutzen monster...still have the bits, just not the inclination at the mo' sadly.

[T 20]

Is that an "improved" Airsporter then ?

I'm building the gun out of bits I've bought or had donated by the good folks of the BBS, Jon.
I started with just the cylinder/barrel/trigger assembly and Mr Edbear donated the tap assembly and underlever.
I still have to fabricate a piston, so I now need to decide if I'm going to use a Mercury back block or the standard block as the sear rods are different.
With the Merc block and stock it will look like BSAs version of the Webley MK3 but will have a longer stroke than an Airsporter.
I've just finished building an Airsporter out of bits from the parts bin --- MK2 cylinder, MK6 trigger block and underlever, all fitted into a MK4 stock.

Well, I like the floor tiles Mick...

My kitchen was a Victorian pig pen, Phil --- They're the original terracotta floor tiles after lifting and relaying.

I do hope you realize there's a bit missing,

Yes Peter, I must weld a scope rail to it.
This is why I like post 1965 MK2 Airsporters --- tapered tap and usable scope rails.

Could be worse Mick, back in the day it was a full time job for some folk! .....That's engineering mind, I knew old guys in the early 1970's that had done 30 years or more on the same machine.

I used to hate capstan work where you got 2-300 small componants in one batch, easy to lose concentration as a youngster back then and a few fingers at the same time! (It was piecework so everyone was working like madmen to make a few extra bob...They had a piecework centreless grinding section too and I don't think anybody working there had a full compliment of digits ).

Kids today etc. etc.....

ATB, Ed

P.S....Is the sporter block the same thread?...Have never tried what you have there, but had thought about a Mercury back end so I could put a Standard action into a BSA / Parker Hale Safari type centrefire stock blank I have and make a vintage Stutzen monster...still have the bits, just not the inclination at the mo' sadly.

I bet the old boy at BSA who lapped taps in threw a party when he was told the company was changing to using parallel taps.

The Airsporter/Mercury back block use the same thread pitch but are 0.010" under the Standard thread diameter.
Obviously the threads on the Airsporter back block could be replaced with those of the Standard if needed.

With your project you could even leave the for end short to end up with a Diana/Original 50 on steroids.



All the best Mick

[Papa g]

There's not much to show really, Phil.

The .177" tap was half a hole out, so I started with 400 grit grinding paste which was taking too long so I changed to 120 grit paste.
When I was getting near to alignment I swapped back to 120 grit then finished off with Solvo Autosol polish --- what a fun two hours that lot was.

Then I spent the rest of afternoon fettling every single part of the underlever and linkage to end up with this :-

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...sifx7w6un.jpeg

i really like the look of that Mick! Do keep us posted on the finished item as regards to what stock you use & power output, I enjoy seeing how other people's projects turn out, it gets the creative juices flowing!
Regards Graham

[T 20]

i really like the look of that Mick! Do keep us posted on the finished item as regards to what stock you use & power output, I enjoy seeing how other people's projects turn out, it gets the creative juices flowing!
Regards Graham

Unfortunately Graham

I can't afford the time to go hammer and tongues at this project as I have so many other projects on the go at present. --- but I will update as and when I can.

One thing I've discovered this morning which may be of interest to other BSA Standard owners is that the Airsporter MK4/5/6 and Mercury MK1/2/3 pistons will work in a Standard with just a minimum amount of fettling :-

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...s9rur13de.jpeg

The Airsporter latch rod would need cutting back a little after the latch face and the cocking lever slot would need extending forward a tad.
The removable piston head on the Airsporter would allow the use of leather, O ring or Diana seal to be used.



All the best Mick

[T 20]

Boring job, isn't it ?



Ah well, nearly there.

Finished.

Next on the list is sanding the action back to bare metal in preperation for fume bluing --- who in their right mind would want all that nasty 100 year old patina ?



















What ?

[Shed tuner]

lol.. timewarp…

Post us a piccy then mate... and how does it perform ?

[T 20]

lol.. timewarp…

Post us a piccy then mate... and how does it perform ?

When I said I'd finished, I meant I'd finished lapping the tap in Jon, but that works well --- it opens and closes and everything.



All the best Mick

[Rickenbacker]

I still like the terracotta tiles.