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Thread: Hw99 problem

  1. #16
    phil384's Avatar
    phil384 is offline Likes to eat trifle wearing scuba gear
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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    here we go again
    Meaning?
    Daystate Air Ranger FAC - Kral Bullpup & NP03 - CZ 452 .22lr - Lithgow 17hmr - Remington 783 .223 - Franchi 612vs 12G - Renato Gamba 12G O/U - Hatsan Escort 12G
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  2. #17
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    I said it before , wouldn't it be nice if someone did a vid for the 99 fix

  3. #18
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    Agree with Nuno, Arthur and Pete.

    Yes, I will concede that we shouldn't HAVE to do it, but this superb little gun more than warrants any effort involved.

    I steered clear for years due to the scary stories re the galling issue. But, when I finally took the plunge, I wished I'd done it years ago. My first was a .22. Bought used, mint condition, for the bargain price of £130. It's an earlier type one. I simply polished the cylinder and cocking lever, burnished some moly powder in and applied some 60% paste and fitted a Wonky Donky kit....utterly lovely. The firing cycle was quite remarkable, even before this little home fettle. And this lightweight full power little thing felt like it was merely ticking over, but was making naughty power. Now set to low 11s and even lovelier.

    That was back in 2013.

    In 2014 I bought a brand new, new type one in .177. It's perfect out of the box. Simply as a precaution I whipped the stock off and applied some of the 60% paste to the cocking lever and it's been superb. Lovely, smooth cocking and very forgiving and very accurate with a wide range of pellets.

    These two are keepers and I'm very likely to make it 3 '99s when funds allow.

    A full power, extremely accurate, forgiving gun with a most remarkable firing cycle, Rekord trigger and light weight. At circa £200. I believe it's a bargain.
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nunofrancisco View Post
    You gotta do 3 things.

    First - remove just the spring under the derlin. Place a hex key or so in the end of the derlin bar, pull it up gently (dont break it) and a slot will show up. There is a really stiff spring there, remove it.

    Second - In the mid of the arm, there is a joint (where the arm bends in two parts)... those two tabs are super tight normaly... and theres from where all the bad sounds than people claim "galling" or "my gun is eating itself after 30 shots in row". Metal expands,and those tabs are just too tight. put the arm in a table, with the derlin facing upside. Place a screwdriver between the joint and the begin of the derlin bar. Slowly with a hammer, tap the screwdriver. That will make both parts of the cocking arm move alot more freely, andd stop all the noises while cocking.

    Third - and the easier - just give a small polish to the cocking shoe some have sharp edges, who may rub into the inside of the cilidinder. A quick polish, removing sharp edges will be nice.

    Make this 3 steps, put some moly into the shoe and in the derlin bar... and i can ensure a noise free and with alot less effort to cock.

    About your relative problem, than it seems like the shoe is rubing on the spring... im nearly sure if isnt bent, its one of the ends (probably the one of the top hat) than inst well finished. Happened to me once, as i told before...
    i agree with all you say but this does not sound like the normal gauling problem.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    i agree with all you say but this does not sound like the normal gauling problem.
    I was wondering if it's actually an older gun, Pete, and that the cocking linkage is, in fact, too "sloppy"? Or, if it is an older one and someone's "played" with it. Roller worn or missing?
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 4/5, 2024.........BOING!!

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    i agree with all you say but this does not sound like the normal gauling problem.
    There is exactly the fun part... how many of the "newer" style cocking arms, you saw galling? Eating metal, making lines into the out of the cylinder like the older cocking type? Not a single one. Meanwhile, 80% of the people will tell you "my gun its galling... after a few shots, you start listen metal grinding and the gun eating himself"... People are so "set" into the galling of the older desing, than as soon as they listen metal sounds, they come to forums claim their guns suffered from galling. And its just the joint in the mid of the cocking arm than its super tight, and the metal heats up and expands... thats why many just start making the sound after 30 shots or so in row, and if you let the gun alone 30 minuts and come back - will make no sounds. When the rest 20% come and tell than their guns dont make noise, so they dont suffer from galling... its just their cocking arm joint than wasnt so tight!

    But with that 3 steps - you fix it all. Takes 10 minuts.
    Last edited by nunofrancisco; 03-03-2017 at 01:38 PM.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil384 View Post
    Meaning?
    meaning that this has been done to death and the fix is simplicity itself and all the doom merchants keep harping on about " shouldnt have to do it send it back but a new one will gaul unless you are very very lucky. so you dont get to have one of these incredible guns. weihrauch apparently are not going to fix it so for 1 hours easy work we fix it and get to have the pleasure of this gun. its fixed permantly. regards pete

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by nunofrancisco View Post
    There is exactly the fun part... ho many of the "newer" style cocking arms, you saw galling? Eating metal, making lines into the out of the cylinder like the older cocking type? Not a single one. Meanwhile, 80% of the people will tell you "my gun its galling... after a few shots, you start listen metal grinding and the gun eating himself"... People are so "set" into the galling of the older desing, than as soon as they listen metal sounds, they come to forums claim their guns suffered from galling. And its just the joint in the mid of the cocking arm than its super tight, and the metal heats up and expands... thats why many just start making the sound after 30 shots or so in row, and if you let the gun alone 30 minuts and come back - will make no sounds.

    But with that 3 steps - you fix it all. Takes 10 minuts.
    its not like the old problem the gauling occures inside the cylinder the delrin has transfered the problem but made it into a very easy fix regards pete

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    its not like the old problem the gauling occures inside the cylinder the delrin has transfered the problem but made it into a very easy fix regards pete
    Indeed.

    But i took it further - and this all this mods one by one... to see wich one would be the more important (or if something wasnt need). First, polished the shoe just. Was still making noises, but didnt dig groves into the inside of the cilinder - good but didnt fix it. Then - removed the spring under the derlin - massive step. It was easier to cock, and much more silent. But after a few shoots in row... it was still making the "metal grind" sound. So for the last - i just used the hammer/screwdriver to open a bit those 2 tabs on the joint. And after that, i had shoot 200-300 pellets in row without a single metal or grind noise!

    Conclusion - there is a few smaller problems (2 of quality control an one we can call it design - the litle spring under the derlin bar) than can be easly fixed. But for a perfect smooth cocking, you need to solve all the three.

  10. #25
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    [QUOTE=nunofrancisco;7197197]Indeed.

    But i took it further - and this all this mods one by one... to see wich one would be the more important (or if something wasnt need). First, polished the shoe just. Was still making noises, but didnt dig groves into the inside of the cilinder - good but didnt fix it. Then - removed the spring under the derlin - massive step. It was easier to cock, and much more silent. But after a few shoots in row... it was still making the "metal grind" sound. So for the last - i just used the hammer/screwdriver to open a bit those 2 tabs on the joint. And after that, i had shoot 200-300 pellets in row without a single metal or grind noise!

    Conclusion - there is a few smaller problems (2 of quality control an one we can call it design - the litle spring under the derlin bar) than can be easly fixed. But for a perfect smooth cocking, you need to solve all the three.[/QUOT

    that is exactly the fix. i have fixed 3 exactly like that. however i have not had the linkeage problem with any of my guns. on your previous post you did not seem to be saying what you have just posted. regards pete

  11. #26
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    [QUOTE=Telephonepete;7197211]
    Quote Originally Posted by nunofrancisco View Post
    Indeed.

    But i took it further - and this all this mods one by one... to see wich one would be the more important (or if something wasnt need). First, polished the shoe just. Was still making noises, but didnt dig groves into the inside of the cilinder - good but didnt fix it. Then - removed the spring under the derlin - massive step. It was easier to cock, and much more silent. But after a few shoots in row... it was still making the "metal grind" sound. So for the last - i just used the hammer/screwdriver to open a bit those 2 tabs on the joint. And after that, i had shoot 200-300 pellets in row without a single metal or grind noise!

    Conclusion - there is a few smaller problems (2 of quality control an one we can call it design - the litle spring under the derlin bar) than can be easly fixed. But for a perfect smooth cocking, you need to solve all the three.[/QUOT

    that is exactly the fix. i have fixed 3 exactly like that. however i have not had the linkeage problem with any of my guns. on your previous post you did not seem to be saying what you have just posted. regards pete
    it was a good idea doing them one at a time. its odd but i have had 5 and never experienced a stiffness in the cocking linkeage. pete

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by lola View Post
    Hi it is a new spring and straight as a die so shouldn't be that.
    Is the spring new because the gun is new or have you fitted a new spring to a used gun? If the latter, maybe the new spring is bigger.

  13. #28
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    Hello to All,

    My HW99S has had the 'full fix' done, and it is totally smooth and quiet when cocking and closing the barrel.

    You would have to prise my HW99S from my 'cold dead fingers' to get me to part with it

    (Especially now that I have painted the stock with Ford Electric Orange pearlescent paint )

    Such a simple fix to do, and the result is a superbly performing, well priced 'pocket rocket'.

    Yet, such a torrent of bile towards this rifle - yes the twats from HW should apply the 'full fix' at the factory, but they don't

    Apply the 'fix' or buy something else !

    Have fun & a good weekend

    Best regards

    Russ

  14. #29
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    Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I thought I had a trouble free 99 until this afternoon. Up to today i had only fired a small number of pellets through it but I took the gun to my local club for some serious zeroing and pratice and lo and behold, after about forty or so shots the cocking action became metalically laboured towards the end of the stroke so I guess some examination is required.

    My questions are though; does the "holy trinity" of mods referred to earlier in the thread fix this problem and can the spring behind the delrin strip be put back if this is found to be not causing or contributing to the issue? Also, does he spring and trigger have to removed too?

    Thank you in advance.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Portzy View Post
    Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I thought I had a trouble free 99 until this afternoon. Up to today i had only fired a small number of pellets through it but I took the gun to my local club for some serious zeroing and pratice and lo and behold, after about forty or so shots the cocking action became metalically laboured towards the end of the stroke so I guess some examination is required.

    My questions are though; does the "holy trinity" of mods referred to earlier in the thread fix this problem and can the spring behind the delrin strip be put back if this is found to be not causing or contributing to the issue? Also, does he spring and trigger have to removed too?

    Thank you in advance.

    Drift out the pin holding the strip and the spring can be removed/replaced at will. If you want to ring me during/after finding and fixing the problem I can help you locate the usual issues.

    This can all be done with just the barrel removed.
    God rest ye jelly mental men

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