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Thread: Help: Webley Premier seized up after introduction of neatsfoot oil

  1. #1
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    Help: Webley Premier seized up after introduction of neatsfoot oil

    I have a 1975 Webley Premier Mk2 .22 air pistol. It has hardly been used since the '70s and I got it out today. It was working well but I thought I would introduce two or three drops of neatsfoot oil into the air transfer port, to lubricate the washer which, I think, had never received any oil since new. I worked it back and forth but it has now seized up and is impossible to cock.

    I am not technically or mechanically minded.

    Anyone any idea what could have happened? I thought the oil would assist the operation and ease the washer, which I thought might be a little dry. I am baffled.

    If I use this oil in the transfer port of my vintage rifles, I am worried there be similar problems.

    Andrew.

  2. #2
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    Would that have a leather seal, if it has maybe the oil has expanded it to the point where its stuck, maybe pour some white spirit into the transfer see if you can wash it out, long shot, otherwise pull the piston and reseal. If it's not leather then i haven't a clue, you sure it wasn't super glue?

  3. #3
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    Thanks butloaves. Yes, given it was 1975, I think it is certainly leather.

    Perhaps you are correct and it has expanded but one would think the leather would have absorbed it without expansion, given that it was presumably in a similar position 42 years ago, when new.

    Interesting idea re the white spirit.

    Rgds
    Andrew.

  4. #4
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    I think your pistol has a PTFE piston seal...not sure if or how neatsfoot oil would react with PTFE but it sounds like you're going to have to strip it and have a look at the very least.
    blah blah

  5. #5
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    Also...neatsfoot oil is rendered from cows hooves, and will solidify into a lard like product if left to go cold...depending on how much you put down the transfer port, it could just be suction/vacuum locked i.e. a solid plug of lard is holding the piston onto the end of the cylinder and transfer port is plugged too...so try a bit of gentle heat to the pistol body see if that will loosen it/melt the solid neatsfoot oil/lard, but I reckon you'll still have to pull it apart to clean it all out.
    blah blah

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCL_dave View Post
    I think your pistol has a PTFE piston seal...not sure if or how neatsfoot oil would react with PTFE but it sounds like you're going to have to strip it and have a look at the very least.
    From what I recall PTFE is totally inert and therefore shouldn't react with any other substance. My thought would be leather washer but how soon after putting the oil in did it stop working? My thoughts are would a leather washer expanded that quickly and caused it to jam/size.

    Probably no help but my 10 bobs worth!
    Nil Illigtimi Carborundum

  7. #7
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    It was definitely Neatsfoot, I suppose - no chance something else was in the bottle?
    Happy Shooting!! Paul.
    "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewM View Post
    I have a 1975 Webley Premier Mk2 .22 air pistol. It has hardly been used since the '70s and I got it out today. It was working well but I thought I would introduce two or three drops of neatsfoot oil into the air transfer port, to lubricate the washer which, I think, had never received any oil since new. I worked it back and forth but it has now seized up and is impossible to cock.

    I am not technically or mechanically minded.

    Anyone any idea what could have happened? I thought the oil would assist the operation and ease the washer, which I thought might be a little dry. I am baffled.

    If I use this oil in the transfer port of my vintage rifles, I am worried there be similar problems.

    Andrew.
    dont do that. neatsfoot is an old way of treating leather probably better ways now. but dont use it on moving parts.

  9. #9
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    Many thanks for all your answers/views.

    The problem occurred almost at once. The oil was introduced at room temperature and the pistol was in the same room, which suggests it should not have solidified. The action is now very rough and difficult; seems impossible to cock more than 80%.

    Yes, it was neatsfoot: I bought it from a local gunsmith.

    Not sure how to open the cylinder on this pistol or if I have the right tools.

    It raises the question of what to introduce into the transfer port of my other vintage rifles with leather washers as I don't want the same problem. Clearly, not silicon but I wonder what is considered the best for these leather washers?

    Rgds
    A

  10. #10
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Sounds to me as though the seal was probably in its last stages when you introduced the oil and the oil completed the disintegration process. If it will only cock 80% then there is probably a wedge of debris behind the piston.

  11. #11
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    All bar the earliest (1963-4?) Premiers use PTFE piston seals.

    Back in the day, 99% of airgunners who remembered to lube their leather piston seals occasionally probably used 3-in-1. The guns didn't seem to mind.

  12. #12
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    Strip the gun, it takes less than a minute, all you need is a small screwdriver.

    Its the only way to identify the problem - and clean it out.
    "But we have our own dream and our own task. We are with Europe, but not of it. We are linked, but not comprised. We are interested and associated, but not absorbed."
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  13. #13
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    Link to Premier strip. Note: you do not need any special technical aptitude to strip this pistol, just normal manual dexterity. If you can't tie your shoe laces, I wouldn't attempt it. If you can, you'll have no trouble.

    This is the bit you need:

    "Undo barrel pivot lock screw and barrel pivot and lift barrel up and slide cocking arm out of its slot. Undo endcap (keeping pressure on ) and remove along with mainspring and piston."
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  14. #14
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    lubes

    This gun should definately have a Polyurethane seal from birth, possibly replaced by one of PTFE which isnt as good.....but never leather. However this not your problem.
    Neatsfoot oil is a great lube for restoring a dry leather washer but you have just introduced it into a cylinder which probably has mineral oil or moly in it.
    The acids in these have reacted with the neatsfoot and turned it into a cruddy paste.
    Youll will need to clean it out with some Youngs 303.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garvin View Post
    Link to Premier strip. Note: you do not need any special technical aptitude to strip this pistol, just normal manual dexterity. If you can't tie your shoe laces, I wouldn't attempt it. If you can, you'll have no trouble.

    This is the bit you need:

    "Undo barrel pivot lock screw and barrel pivot and lift barrel up and slide cocking arm out of its slot. Undo endcap (keeping pressure on ) and remove along with mainspring and piston."
    Even I can do it!

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