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Thread: .22 silencer baffle hole....

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhyslightnin View Post
    Thanks, good post!
    I'm making a primary baffle/stripper for my new R10 so I can utilise the space in a new shorter lightweight carbon shroud I'm going to make. I want to do it with a female 1/2 unf screw thread on the barrel end and a male 1/2 unf on the other (so I can fit a stubby silencer) with the baffle as part of the machined piece. This I'm hoping to drill from the side between the baffle plate and the female 1/2 unf twice at 90° to each other so the air will vent backwards up the carbon shroud hopefully swallowing most of the initial blast, allowing the short silencer to catch the rest.
    As it's only 1 baffle probably solid aluminium, I'm hoping it will help keep the rifle short as itl be maybe 10mm from the muzzle but be effective too. I should be able to make it quite tight then just ream it out if it's too close..
    What do you think?
    what are you making. a silencer, a baffle stripper or an air stripper.?
    the only thing i can find wrong is the nut on the steering wheel.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by max headroom View Post
    what are you making. a silencer, a baffle stripper or an air stripper.?
    I want to strip the muzzle blast using the shroud as a first chamber then my huggett belita as the rest. It's to reduce muzzle noise, I'm hoping the shroud section will make up for the belita not being as effective as a full length mod & It'll also mean if I want to make the muzzle shorter by removing the belita and using the original muzzle brake it will have some (I realise not all) reduction in noise.
    So IL have a short semi quiet rifle, STD length quiet rifle or I can use somthing larger like a VC mod to make it super silent.
    Hope this answers your question..,
    Rhys
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  3. #3
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    In my experience having a small first chamber can cause a kind of muzzle flip. Acoustically it doesn't matter which order the chambers are in. The idea of the long baffle works.

    Agreed, you have to fire a pellet to make any judgement, likewise with no silencer many rifles are a lot noisier if fired empty.

    In an ideal world one would measure the acoustic signature and design the silencer to take out the offending frequencies.
    www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    In my experience having a small first chamber can cause a kind of muzzle flip. Acoustically it doesn't matter which order the chambers are in. The idea of the long baffle works.

    Agreed, you have to fire a pellet to make any judgement, likewise with no silencer many rifles are a lot noisier if fired empty.

    In an ideal world one would measure the acoustic signature and design the silencer to take out the offending frequencies.
    Do you think it matters if it's reflex or in from of the muzzle? Is it worth me going to the effort? As my barrel is not threaded I bought a barrel adapter which I thought I could just drill some sideways holes in just after the muzzle!! I've ordered a bit of carbon tube which I can cut to length and I need to find something to pack up the gap between the carbon tube & the barrel adapter.... IL probably use felt...
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhyslightnin View Post
    Do you think it matters if it's reflex or in from of the muzzle? Is it worth me going to the effort? As my barrel is not threaded I bought a barrel adapter which I thought I could just drill some sideways holes in just after the muzzle!! I've ordered a bit of carbon tube which I can cut to length and I need to find something to pack up the gap between the carbon tube & the barrel adapter.... IL probably use felt...
    Velcro curlers inside each other ?

    http://www.retrochick.co.uk/wp-conte...Rollers-mn.jpg

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    Somthing like that... As it's not got to be too accurate as the barrel adapter is holding the silencer true so yeah.. maybe even just a rubber grommet...
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhyslightnin View Post
    More length... I'm hoping it'll be a bit quiet so to speak if I just use the muzzle break but fairly short without having to send it off & get a smaller barrel fitted which costs more. Plus I'd like something a bit verstile, different & I own a belita!
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    In my experience having a small first chamber can cause a kind of muzzle flip. Acoustically it doesn't matter which order the chambers are in. .
    How can the jet reaction of the escaping air inside a mod firmly attached to the barrel cause muzzle flip? Inside the first camber the air hitting the first baffle pulls the barrel forward with the same force as it is pushes the barrel backward.

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