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Thread: Talk to me about...DIY adjustable combs

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Budd View Post
    I like the 98 esque option too...

    here's a thought.. would it be possible to use the same locking mech that is used for bicycle handlebar stems, i.e. a 45 degree slice through the rods, and a bolt through their centre, that causes the two sections of rod to move in opposite directions laterally, locking in place in the hole ? Might be sensible to glue in place a couple of steel or brass liners to prevent the wood from cracking under ham-fisted loads, but it should work, and negate the need for side clamping screws ?
    Pretty sure that would work even in the wood of the stock, as your not cranking the bolts up super tight, a degree of knurling would ensure a good non slip effect.

    I fit a pair of inserts made from 12mm threaded rod, drilled and tapped internally for 6mm with a corresponding 90deg 9mm hole to allow my standard 8mm raiser rod to pass cleanly through, I then put a 6mm bolt with locknut onto the insert and use the bolt to screw it into the stock, release the locknut and unscrew the bolt leaving the insert fitted.

  2. #2
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    hi, i think rich on here does them,you could pm him. atb mick

  3. #3
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    Save yourself a lot of trouble and get a velcro adjustable cheek rest with inserts.
    Arthur

    I wish I was in the land of cotton.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Artfull-Bodger View Post
    I fit a pair of inserts made from 12mm threaded rod, drilled and tapped internally for 6mm with a corresponding 90deg 9mm hole to allow my standard 8mm raiser rod to pass cleanly through, I then put a 6mm bolt with locknut onto the insert and use the bolt to screw it into the stock, release the locknut and unscrew the bolt leaving the insert fitted.
    hmm, that sounds it might be even simpler than my suggestion, so long as I can line up the inserts to meet the riser rods properly.. then again, by the time you are fitting them, you will know top and bottom points for the risers, so can be faily confident of the line in between !
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  5. #5
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    adjustable stock comb

    I have considered converting my guns as well BUT the chances of aligning the holes for the rods correctly at the first go is very low, also cutting the stock neatly is not for an amature DIYer. Considering the price of a walnut stock this is one job where I would play safe and have it done professionaly. If your still intending to have a go practice on a couple of pieces of 3 x 2 timber first!!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithy View Post
    I have considered converting my guns as well BUT the chances of aligning the holes for the rods correctly at the first go is very low, also cutting the stock neatly is not for an amature DIYer. Considering the price of a walnut stock this is one job where I would play safe and have it done professionaly. If your still intending to have a go practice on a couple of pieces of 3 x 2 timber first!!
    You have to make up a couple of little jigs to ensure alignment, it's not difficult but needs care.

    Cutting the cheekpiece is a whole different matter, I have found a hacksaw blade is best taken very slowly, and by slowly I mean work for a few minutes until you catch yourself starting to rush, then leave it, go do something else and come back to it later, it's so easy to be impatient, the sanding process then removes any marks left.

  7. #7
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    I have done quite a number of these conversions and now have a set of jigs made up for the more popular rifles. Here's a stock from a Walther RM8, not one of the most popular but looks fine when finished. http://i.imgur.com/0YtIYsS.jpg

    The cut is done on a bandsaw using a blade carefully selected for the job. It has to be done at a proper pace, too fast and the sawdust won't clear; too slow and it's more difficult to get a nice sweeping shape.

    What is crucially important is getting the stock held in position absolutely square to the line of the cut and holding it in that orientation for the whole of the cut. Again this is done with a purpose made jig.

    This one is my Airwolf: http://i.imgur.com/00A65ze.jpg and this is a S200 with an extended butt plate. http://i.imgur.com/3yHOoti.jpg

    I don't know what price you were asked. If you want to discuss prices then send me a PM or use email.

    There are some stocks that are pigs to do, especially the AA Superlite and the BSA R10 mark 2 in walnut. It's because there is so little room to work with as the sides are sculpted.
    www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee

  8. #8
    eyebull's Avatar
    eyebull is offline Even a stopped clock is right twice a day
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    Thank you all for your responses and advice!

    There's a lot to consider here, so I'm going to have a good think about it and come back to this.
    Good deals with these members

  9. #9
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    Just pop up to Berkhampstead and buy yourself a HW98. Problem solved and it's a beautiful rifle.

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