Talk to me about...DIY adjustable combs

[eyebull]

After being quoted a very large sum of money for fitting an adjustable comb (no judgement implied, I'm sure it would have been a pukka job), I've decided that I should have a crack at it myself.
So I would really appreciate any hints, tips or tricks that any of the members might have, especially if they have done this themselves. What are the major pitfalls and things to look out for?
Also any suggestions for pre-made fittings (I have seen a few on the bay) would be welcome.

I have three guns which could do with the treatment - Diana 54, HW95k, and possibly also a Hatsan Striker. The last rifle could be a good one to start off with and practice on as it's a cheapie, but because of that it may not be worth the investment?

All advice welcome

[Murphy]

Does it have to be adjustable?

Just cut out the comb with a jigsaw/hacksaw then drill and glue 2 pieces of doweling in place at height needed.

Maybe slap a little bit of stain on done.

[Artfull-Bodger]

After being quoted a very large sum of money for fitting an adjustable comb (no judgement implied, I'm sure it would have been a pukka job), I've decided that I should have a crack at it myself.
So I would really appreciate any hints, tips or tricks that any of the members might have, especially if they have done this themselves. What are the major pitfalls and things to look out for?
Also any suggestions for pre-made fittings (I have seen a few on the bay) would be welcome.

I have three guns which could do with the treatment - Diana 54, HW95k, and possibly also a Hatsan Striker. The last rifle could be a good one to start off with and practice on as it's a cheapie, but because of that it may not be worth the investment?

All advice welcome

One of the biggest problems is making sure your holes for the posts line up squarely, the method I now use is what HW do on their 98, (I basically copied it), you drill the holes from the bottom of the butt up into the part you wish to make adjustable this then ensures alignment.

I then wrap the butt up tight with tape to prevent splits and allow me to mark the lines, then I cut it very slowly with a 14tpi hacksaw blade in a blade holder.

You can then insert rods to raise and lower the cheek piece, and there are plenty of examples on different adjusters.

[eyebull]

Does it have to be adjustable?

Just cut out the comb with a jigsaw/hacksaw then drill and glue 2 pieces of doweling in place at height needed.

Maybe slap a little bit of stain on done.

I would like them to be adjustable as I may not always be using the same scope and mount setup.

[eyebull]

One of the biggest problems is making sure your holes for the posts line up squarely, the method I now use is what HW do on their 98, (I basically copied it), you drill the holes from the bottom of the butt up into the part you wish to make adjustable this then ensures alignment.

I then wrap the butt up tight with tape to prevent splits and allow me to mark the lines, then I cut it very slowly with a 14tpi hacksaw blade in a blade holder.

You can then insert rods to raise and lower the cheek piece, and there are plenty of examples on different adjusters.

Now that is a pretty good idea....any tips on lining up the side retaining screws with the rods?

[Artfull-Bodger]

Now that is a pretty good idea....any tips on lining up the side retaining screws with the rods?

I made a small jig which was basically a bent alloy plate with two bolts that go into the rod holes and two punch holes drilled for the height I want the adjusters installed, its pretty fool proof, you simply draw two straight lines on the plate , drill the holes on the lines and make sure you bend it 90 degrees so that they stay in line, then slot the bolts into the rod holes and punch mark the stock , simples.

[Scubashot]

After being quoted a very large sum of money for fitting an adjustable comb (no judgement implied, I'm sure it would have been a pukka job), I've decided that I should have a crack at it myself.
So I would really appreciate any hints, tips or tricks that any of the members might have, especially if they have done this themselves. What are the major pitfalls and things to look out for?
Also any suggestions for pre-made fittings (I have seen a few on the bay) would be welcome.

I have three guns which could do with the treatment - Diana 54, HW95k, and possibly also a Hatsan Striker. The last rifle could be a good one to start off with and practice on as it's a cheapie, but because of that it may not be worth the investment?

All advice welcome

Hi,
I have recently been through the same dilemma myself.
I have an old and much loved hw77 that has worn a 4 x 32 scope for the last 30 years. Scopes have moved on in that time and my eyesight has deteriorated so I bought a 3 - 9 x 50 AO which necessitated high mounts for clearance of the large objective lens. As the hw77 was made for open sights, the comb is very low and I couldn't see through the scope with any "cheek weld" to the stock.
I looked at comb raiser pads etc but didn't find this a very elegant solution. I found the adjustable comb raiser kits for around £30.00 but didn't have the confidence to take a saw to my stock. Whilst looking however, I discovered an advert for a fitted kit for only £55.00.
I phoned the guy, Donald Cooper and after finding he already had three other 77's to do plus various other makes and models, I sent him my stock. It was back in under a week with the kit installed and the stock beautifully finished with brown beeswax.
Obviously there were additional carriage charges for sending and receiving the stock and I also decided to fit a Bisley adjustable butt pad while I had it in pieces but I felt it all money well spent. Under £100 for a stock that fits, considerably less that the cs500 that I had been considering and I am told that the combs on those are still too low.
I'm currently trying to work up the courage to repeat the process on my walnut stocked hw100s!
Let me know if you'd like his contact details.

[Shed tuner]

One of the biggest problems is making sure your holes for the posts line up squarely, the method I now use is what HW do on their 98, (I basically copied it), you drill the holes from the bottom of the butt up into the part you wish to make adjustable this then ensures alignment.

I like the 98 esque option too...

here's a thought.. would it be possible to use the same locking mech that is used for bicycle handlebar stems, i.e. a 45 degree slice through the rods, and a bolt through their centre, that causes the two sections of rod to move in opposite directions laterally, locking in place in the hole ? Might be sensible to glue in place a couple of steel or brass liners to prevent the wood from cracking under ham-fisted loads, but it should work, and negate the need for side clamping screws ?

[Artfull-Bodger]

I like the 98 esque option too...

here's a thought.. would it be possible to use the same locking mech that is used for bicycle handlebar stems, i.e. a 45 degree slice through the rods, and a bolt through their centre, that causes the two sections of rod to move in opposite directions laterally, locking in place in the hole ? Might be sensible to glue in place a couple of steel or brass liners to prevent the wood from cracking under ham-fisted loads, but it should work, and negate the need for side clamping screws ?

Pretty sure that would work even in the wood of the stock, as your not cranking the bolts up super tight, a degree of knurling would ensure a good non slip effect.

I fit a pair of inserts made from 12mm threaded rod, drilled and tapped internally for 6mm with a corresponding 90deg 9mm hole to allow my standard 8mm raiser rod to pass cleanly through, I then put a 6mm bolt with locknut onto the insert and use the bolt to screw it into the stock, release the locknut and unscrew the bolt leaving the insert fitted.

[mdunn]

hi, i think rich on here does them,you could pm him. atb mick

[Arthur John Smithsplease]

Save yourself a lot of trouble and get a velcro adjustable cheek rest with inserts.

[Shed tuner]

I fit a pair of inserts made from 12mm threaded rod, drilled and tapped internally for 6mm with a corresponding 90deg 9mm hole to allow my standard 8mm raiser rod to pass cleanly through, I then put a 6mm bolt with locknut onto the insert and use the bolt to screw it into the stock, release the locknut and unscrew the bolt leaving the insert fitted.

hmm, that sounds it might be even simpler than my suggestion, so long as I can line up the inserts to meet the riser rods properly.. then again, by the time you are fitting them, you will know top and bottom points for the risers, so can be faily confident of the line in between !

[keithy]

I have considered converting my guns as well BUT the chances of aligning the holes for the rods correctly at the first go is very low, also cutting the stock neatly is not for an amature DIYer. Considering the price of a walnut stock this is one job where I would play safe and have it done professionaly. If your still intending to have a go practice on a couple of pieces of 3 x 2 timber first!!

[Artfull-Bodger]

I have considered converting my guns as well BUT the chances of aligning the holes for the rods correctly at the first go is very low, also cutting the stock neatly is not for an amature DIYer. Considering the price of a walnut stock this is one job where I would play safe and have it done professionaly. If your still intending to have a go practice on a couple of pieces of 3 x 2 timber first!!

You have to make up a couple of little jigs to ensure alignment, it's not difficult but needs care.

Cutting the cheekpiece is a whole different matter, I have found a hacksaw blade is best taken very slowly, and by slowly I mean work for a few minutes until you catch yourself starting to rush, then leave it, go do something else and come back to it later, it's so easy to be impatient, the sanding process then removes any marks left.

[Rich]

I have done quite a number of these conversions and now have a set of jigs made up for the more popular rifles. Here's a stock from a Walther RM8, not one of the most popular but looks fine when finished. http://i.imgur.com/0YtIYsS.jpg

The cut is done on a bandsaw using a blade carefully selected for the job. It has to be done at a proper pace, too fast and the sawdust won't clear; too slow and it's more difficult to get a nice sweeping shape.

What is crucially important is getting the stock held in position absolutely square to the line of the cut and holding it in that orientation for the whole of the cut. Again this is done with a purpose made jig.

This one is my Airwolf: http://i.imgur.com/00A65ze.jpg and this is a S200 with an extended butt plate. http://i.imgur.com/3yHOoti.jpg

I don't know what price you were asked. If you want to discuss prices then send me a PM or use email.

There are some stocks that are pigs to do, especially the AA Superlite and the BSA R10 mark 2 in walnut. It's because there is so little room to work with as the sides are sculpted.