BSA Mercury S - Strip/assembly guide

[Hellequin]

Gents,

Do any of you know of any comprehensive (preferably with pictures) guides / instructions for stripping & assembling the BSA Mercury S?

I've had a bit of a search online but there doesn't seem to be anything on youtube and the only diagrams I've found are the ones for parts, such as on the Chambers site.

I'm going to be fitting a Welsh Willy kit to mine along with new piston head/seal/buffer washer however most of the stuff I've found via google seems to suggest the Titan spring is a 'bit harsh' when fitted to the Mercury... I don't know if the one in the WW kit is cut down to standard Mercury length when he sizes the guide/tophat to it.

Just for info, the rifle I've just got hasn't been used in 37 years, hence the need for a bit of a service!

Advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Phil Russell]

The Idiots Guide sticky will help ... posts 37, 38 and 122. No pictures and not specifically the S but generic enough to give a good basic set of information that will do the job. Really not very difficult if you have stripped a break barrel before. Just take care when removing the trigger block as there may be some preload on the spring. Wear leather gloves and cover the block with an old towel as you release the block from the cylinder. Better safe than sorry.
Cheers, Phil

[Hellequin]

Thanks Phil, I'll give it a look later

[Phil Russell]

Not sure if this is in the 'guide' or not. A tip: when unscrewing the trigger block, clamp the block in a padded vice (I use 6mm rubber belting to protect the parts) and unscrew the action from the block. This way you have far more control at the point of 'thread release' as the spring suddenly pushes the action from the block.
Cheers, Phil

[look no hands]

I'm going to be fitting a Welsh Willy kit to mine along with new piston head/seal/buffer washer however most of the stuff I've found via google seems to suggest the Titan spring is a 'bit harsh' when fitted to the Mercury... I don't know if the one in the WW kit is cut down to standard Mercury length when he sizes the guide/tophat to it.

Advice would be greatly appreciated.

You won't have anything to worry about with one of Wills kits, the spring will be shortened to the right length and properly finished, so it won't be harsh to shoot.

Pete

[LESS THAN FORTUITOUS KENNETH]

Not sure if this is in the 'guide' or not. A tip: when unscrewing the trigger block, clamp the block in a padded vice (I use 6mm rubber belting to protect the parts) and unscrew the action from the block. This way you have far more control at the point of 'thread release' as the spring suddenly pushes the action from the block.
Cheers, Phil

When unscrewing, I use half a tennis ball over the jaws of the action to cushion it. The same when refitting. Allows you to keep the pressure on whilst turning the action. Having a mate makes it easier.

[Hellequin]

Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated.

[harry mac]

You got a Mercury S Paul? You should have said you wanted one.

[Hellequin]

You got a Mercury S Paul? You should have said you wanted one.

How many you got?

[harry mac]

Just the one, a .177 (and a speeding fine to pay)

[LESS THAN FORTUITOUS KENNETH]

Has anyone fitted a different spring which is a bit kinder preload wise when stripping and refitting? Mine is shooting lovely at the moment, but putting it back together after a strip is a real pain. Would a different spring make it easier without sacrificing smoothness or power?