Vintage 1920's BSA Standard; Does this look right?

[45flint]

Looking at a 1920's BSA Standard and I took a picture of the joint between the main tube and the loading gate. There seems to be a gap where the tube seems not pushed all the way in? Not familiar enough with these rifles, assume someone here would know right away? Thanks

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...psynzbrwq3.jpg

[Garvin]

Looking at a 1920's BSA Standard and I took a picture of the joint between the main tube and the loading gate. There seems to be a gap where the tube seems not pushed all the way in? Not familiar enough with these rifles, assume someone here would know right away? Thanks

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...psynzbrwq3.jpg

Looks OK to me?

Lots in this gallery to compare.

[Abasmajor]

Looks OK to me?

Lots in this gallery to compare.

Hello,

Also looks fine to me. If you take a look at Danny's excellent website, you will see pictures of other BSA Standard rifles taken from a similar position for comparison purposes.

http://www.network54.com/Index/105071

Brian

[45flint]

Yes thanks much, it does look right, indentical to the gallery photos. That groove in back of the loading port threw me off, but I see it in the same period guns on the gallery. Thanks for your great documentation!

[edbear2]

Yes thanks much, it does look right, indentical to the gallery photos. That groove in back of the loading port threw me off, but I see it in the same period guns on the gallery. Thanks for your great documentation!

Hi, The air chamber is screwcut internally and threads onto the barrel /breech one piece forging as per these photos of a project...The joint is also soft soldered to ensure 100% air tightness. They can be dis-assembled with a hot air gun and strap wrench if access is needed / repairs etc. and re-assembled using Loctite with no problems.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...57616789686347

ATB, ed

[T 20]

Hi, The air chamber is screwcut internally and threads onto the barrel /breech one piece forging as per these photos of a project...The joint is also soft soldered to ensure 100% air tightness. They can be dis-assembled with a hot air gun and strap wrench if access is needed / repairs etc. and re-assembled using Loctite with no problems.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...57616789686347

ATB, ed

Hi Ed.

This raises a few questions, if these old girls were hot blued wouldn't the soft solder melt out ?

Or is it possible that they would have been soldered together after bluing ?

Or could it be that they were originally fume/rust blued ?


I only ask as I've read somewhere that older 12 bore side by sides are not recommended to be hot blued as the barrels can part company with each other as the solder melts.




All the best Mick

[martin bingham]

i know of at least one that had the solder melt from using a low flame blowtorch whilst attempting to do the plumb brown 'heat and swab' treatment whilst dutifully following the instructions,

[T 20]

i know of at least one that had the solder melt from using a low flame blowtorch whilst attempting to do the plumb brown 'heat and swab' treatment whilst dutifully following the instructions,

Hence my question, Martin.

I'm also wondering if anyone has experienced problems after rebluing a BSA Standard ?



All the best Mick

[Benelli B76]

The hot blueing solution should be 30 to 40 degrees below the melting point of solder which is around 188 deg C.

Baz

[T 20]

The hot blueing solution should be 30 to 40 degrees below the melting point of solder which is around 188 deg C.

Baz

Cheers Baz

I wonder if the shotgun barrel separation thing was an old wives tail then ?



All the best Mick

[Benelli B76]

Cheers Baz

I wonder if the shotgun barrel separation thing was an old wives tail then ?



All the best Mick

I don't think so.It could have been a combination of the very soft lead compound they use early on and the temperature and very caustic mix that was used for bluing. Also you could imagine a microscopic rusting of the steel surface where it meets the lead could start a separation.

Baz

[edbear2]

Hi Ed.

This raises a few questions, if these old girls were hot blued wouldn't the soft solder melt out ?

Or is it possible that they would have been soldered together after bluing ?

Or could it be that they were originally fume/rust blued ?


I only ask as I've read somewhere that older 12 bore side by sides are not recommended to be hot blued as the barrels can part company with each other as the solder melts.



All the best Mick

Hi Mate, just re-visited this and see Baz has the gen for you

ATB, Ed