Hi ...I use Birchwood Casey Barricade...That leaves a nice thin film on gun's ..I have heard that Ballistol works well but I have never seen it to buy..
Regard's
Inproved ..Steve..
What is the best practice when trying to protect antique guns. I have used "Renaissance Wax Polish" which I guess is used in museums for preservation? I'm thinking of the ones that are probably only occasional shooters.
Hi ...I use Birchwood Casey Barricade...That leaves a nice thin film on gun's ..I have heard that Ballistol works well but I have never seen it to buy..
Regard's
Inproved ..Steve..
Depends on what they are made of.
If its not steel then just keep it clean.
If they are steel a gun oil such as Express or Napier on a rag works ok if you do it every few weeks.
Renaissance doesn't work on my knives unless you don't polish it.
Ballistol stinks.
Where and how you store is important.
Avoid foam cases and damp garages.
Most important IMO is to play with them all regularly!
I use this, 1 large tin lasts forever and no horrible smell:
NAPIER GUN CLEANER 750ML - CLEANS AND OILS ANY TYPE OF GUN - REMOVES FOULING - USES SAFE SOLVENTS - LEAVES A MICRO FILM LAYER OF NAPIER GUN OIL - ENSURES LONG LASTING PROTECTION FROM CORROSION - INFUSED WITH NAPIER'S VP90
Vintage Airguns Gallery
..Above link posted with permission from Gareth W-B
In British slang an anorak is a person who has a very strong interest in niche subjects.
On metal work I just wipe on ACF50, don't spray it on, just a bit on a cloth (I use the same cloth time and time again as it makes a great "oily rag"). ACF50 was designed to protect metal for military equipment, especially naval aircraft in salt conditions such as that encountered by aircraft carriers. It is not cheap, I get mine from the dock of the bay, but, the can lasts a very long time. Used it for several years now and no ill effects. It is well recommended to protect motorcycles used during winter with salted roads. Otherwise, I have wiped over with 3in1..
I use Bee Kind beeswax. Because it is a bloody good natural protection, locally owned and made here in NZ, it is very affordable, goes a long way and I can get the fragrant stuff if I want
Unlike oils, it resists acids from handling. None of this constantly wiping over lark every time I use an air rifle or pistol; unless I want to or see the need.
I use it on the metalwork and the stock. In my experience, oils migrate and contaminate the wood. I have seen plenty of that and no doubt the rest of us have also.
Believe it or not - I have been treating my Airsporters with this product for some time, both metal and wood - it seems to do the job - secret is not to overdo it or else it leaves sticky marks all over - and it appears to protect as well as smelling nice. http://www.wilko.com/multi-purpose-c...l/invt/0095044
(Note it does not contains any silicone or water!)
I use a tiny amount on a soft cloth. (and keep the cloth in a sealed bag)
Mind I am not recommending using it on your own rifle - that's entirely up to you and your choice.
Indeed - if anyone knows of any reason for not using it - I would be pleased to be told why!
Oh, I use it on other wood products and furniture too and it really seems to benefit those too!
atb
ASM
I am a Man of La Northumberlandia, a true Knight and spend my days on my Quest (my duty nay privilege!) and fighting dragons and unbeatable foe, to right the unrightable wrongs, to bear with unbearable sorrow and dreaming my impossible dreams.
Plus two for ACF 50
Having said that I use three in one but my guns get fussed over and a wipe down at least once a week in a very dry house.
If I had to leave them for a while "heaven forbid" it would be ACF 50
When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!
The only problem with metal oils are - they are not necessarily good for wood and it's difficult it not spreading, additionally, on a personal note - having been previously immune to oil and having spent a lot of my life covered in the stuff, over the last 5 years - I find I have developed an allergy to it and get a skin rash now if I come into contact with it!
ASM
Last edited by Airsporterman; 30-01-2017 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Typo
I am a Man of La Northumberlandia, a true Knight and spend my days on my Quest (my duty nay privilege!) and fighting dragons and unbeatable foe, to right the unrightable wrongs, to bear with unbearable sorrow and dreaming my impossible dreams.
Ballistol.
Though that ACF50 sounds interesting.
Surprised at all the different takes on this
Beeswax is the best if you handle the guns a lot. And it buffs up nicely.
While we are on the subject, can anyone tell me why, when I am rust bluing a steel barrel I have to strip off every bit of grease in order to get rusting (even with a rusting agent), but when I leave my lathe in my unheated workshop over winter for a few weeks it rusts like the clappers even though it is as greasy and oily as can be?
Sod's Law I suppose.
Ballistol.....You can clean your dog's ears with the stuff too.
Last edited by vbull; 31-01-2017 at 01:36 PM.
Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.
What's the issue with the foam cases? I keep my co2 guns in their original cases with the foam inserts and the rest in plastic cases also foam lined, mostly flambeau. Also they all get then stored inside flight cases. This looks very cool but also I think stops the fluctuations in temprature that may cause moisture. from time to time spray some gun oil over them and give them a wipe. I'm using garlands. I do seem to remember hearing before the foam may be an problem. Any advice?
Last edited by GRAZY; 31-01-2017 at 09:23 AM.
I once read on an antique sword forum that spray polish was mostly used as it leaves a microscopic polymer layer that acts as a barrier, once it's buffed, It dries, oil gets all over you and dust sticks to the oil so allows the gun to get dirty..
I've done all my guns using either Pledge or Mr Sheen and not a single one has rusted at all!!
John
for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/