I have re-finished all of mine to perfect original finish down the years and just finished my latest K version.
I have used 2 types of Aluminium black with very good results but it cannot be done straight out of the bottle......needs some special prep work....none the re-finish methods for any guns work very well until a huge amount of time and effort is put into finding out how it will work to the gunmakers stds....
Any such work is more of an art form than a DIY job.
Steel barrel with aluminum shroud, not the other way around. I bought one earlier this year and the aluminum shroud was pretty much worn down to bare alloy. So I scrubbed it with 0000 steel wool, wiped it with solvent, then heated to uncomfortably hot and sprayed with well-shaken Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy lightly. Baked the barrel/shroud assembly for a little while in a toaster oven and then sprayed again, lightly, while still above 250°F. Baked again at 250°F for fifteen minutes then turned up to 350°F for another 20 minutes. After hanging for a day to fully cure I rubbed lightly with 0000 steel wool then a soft cloth. Looks like a factory paint job, thin and smooth. It's holding up fine in occasional use, easily durable enough and certainly not shedding anything onto my hands.
Ah, the kurz!
http://classicapa.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=209
Tinny, get the hacksaw out! You know you want to.
yes i did mine based on seeing this.....but trust me it is a work of art to do with some real hairy moments..
But the finished gun is beyond comparison for looks and handling...
Forget about ruining value too....ive had dozens offer me anything upto 400 quid for the 200 quid outlay i paid on the one i did.
Good deals with these members
I have had both the Walther LP53 and the predom lucznik and whilst the Walther looks better made I have to admit that I liked the predom lucznik better it is stronger and I could shoot it better.
I think to keep the blacking on the barrel of the Walther LP53 in good condition you need to use the wooden ball thing to cock it bit of a pain but if you do not use it the blacking will come off the alloy barrel.
Well if one follows Clarky's thread and modifies the weight of the piston (adding 18 grams to the head of the spring) and the type of spring itself, velocity comes up fairly easily to the 460's with a 7.5gr pellet. Not a lot of effort to bump pellet speed around 90fps over factory specified velocity.
http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....53-and-Lucznik
But for accuracy, well... your mileage may vary. Admittedly I haven't put in a lot of hours with mine yet, though I intend to this summer as it'll be along on camping trips. But so far I'm lucky if I can hole 1.5" groups at 6 metres. I can hold 1/2" at that distance with a Pardini K12, owing to the many hours put in training for formal 10 metre competition. Haven't pursued a two-handed grip on the LP53 either which might be key - I just don't like shooting that way, single handed seems more appropriate for pistol to me.
The 53 will quite happily climb to almost 500 fps with my mods and i can repeatedly produce 20mm gps
This evening i just managed a 12 mm group. It takes real practice but its in the gun unlike many other springer pistols.
Thats the key with the 53...Its there...you just need to drag it out.
To help, you need my mods....running one spring P18 or Cometa....run it on Delrin or stainless guide and top hat. Then you want JSB exact or Falcon....
Neatsfoot lube the head....no dieseling after a few clearing shots......then a medium tight Isocoles hold.
Raise the pistol slowly to the bull with the first pressure taken up.....then squeeze just as the sights come up on the base of the bull and the recoil will take that same movement upward in a straightline.
Ive produced tiny groups like this.
The Falcons hit 495 fps with the Exacts running around 465 fps...
Further....forget any comparisons being made with the Lucznik ....The trigger just isnt in the same league and cannot compete once the 53 is set up correctly..
The quality of the grip is greater and gives more control and the quality of the internals and rifling is simply better.
The LP53 has an alloy outer barrel (people on here call it monkey metal,which is Zamak) and a steel rifled liner. The outer barrel cannot be blued with normal gun blue, but satin black spray paint makes a nice job of re-finishing these.I also fill in he Walther name with white paint which really sets it off. The Predom copy uses a solid steel barrel.
Baz
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