Simple homemade jigs and tools....

[Phil Russell]

Another idea ... very simple but works:
Rifle cylinder clamps to hold the cylinder in a vice (or similar) while you mess about with other bits e.g rebuilding a trigger mech or fitting a BSA sloping end block.
All you need is a short (3" - 4") length of plastic 2" waste pipe and some rubber sheet (rubber belting 3mm thick is perfect). Cut waste pipe in half down its length. Cut two bits of rubber sheet each big enough to fit inside the 'half' pipes and glue the sheet in place ... contact adhesive or similar. Clamp / tie the pipe and rubber sheet around another bit of pipe to keep rubber sheet i place while glue dries. Perfect. I have used my clamp protectors for years and they have not failed yet.
As an extension, if you make another set or sets using narrower plastic pipe you can make perfect grips for other round section parts that you need to grip firmly e.g. by molegrips or water pump pliers without marking the item. If using mole grips I use the grips that have curved faces. For the plastic pipe I have used bits from defunct solar powered garden lights to great effect. I guess hose pipe would do but I think the plastic pipe would give better grip and prevent the mole grips from digging into the rubber lining.
Cheers, Phil

[deejayuu]

Loving this topic. Keep it up.
Just for fun my latest gismo used by necessity today.
doesn't look like much but weighs same as about six cissy bags of cement.

[Benelli B76]

Loving this topic. Keep it up.
Just for fun my latest gismo used by necessity today.
doesn't look like much but weighs same as about six cissy bags of cement.

We would have to put a red flag on the back towing that in England. Roads must also be a lot smoother in Wales.

Baz

[DCL_dave]

Loving this topic. Keep it up.
Just for fun my latest gismo used by necessity today.
doesn't look like much but weighs same as about six cissy bags of cement.

Very nice lathe, great to move around aren't they?...you can probably appreciate the fun we had with these two

Consider myself very lucky to have got a load of tooling for my Herbert lathe a while back, just need to figure what is what...it's all been soaking in diesel for the last week or so.

We would have to put a red flag on the back towing that in England. Roads must also be a lot smoother in Wales.

Baz

heheh

[DCL_dave]

Today's bodge...sorry, expertly engineered solution was, to straighten a .177 factory screw cut HW90 carbine barrel...With the breech block cushioned in the big vice, this bugger was a bit too short to get a hold of and bend by hand so I turned a couple of bushes to fit on the barrel, giving plenty of clearance around the threaded muzzle, slid the big pipe on and janked it back, job's a good'un!...

The small bush was pushed up against the breech block but it could be held in place by a small brass or nylon grub screw to apply pressure where ever you want it along the barrel.

This barrel was given to me as a lost cause by a member of SDFTC on Sunday last, at the club. It was bent upwards at the breech block end by about 3mm or so over the length - measured using a steel rule off the breech block. He is also a member on here so, Tom, if you're reading this mate...thanks for the barrel (...and, of course, you can have it back if you want it mate )

[DCL_dave]

Here are the pics of SRV1 tools and jigs...hopefully these links will work...

BSA trig block jig 1
BSA trig block jig 2
BSA trig block jig 3
BSA trig block jig 4
MaxiScope Jig
Spring Comp Oview 1
Spring Comp Oview 2
Spring Comp Top View
Spring Comp End View

[deejayuu]

We would have to put a red flag on the back towing that in England. Roads must also be a lot smoother in Wales.

Baz

No smooth roads but we still have red flag man in front

[deejayuu]

[QUOTE=DCL_dave;7236099]Very nice lathe, great to move around aren't they?...you can probably appreciate the fun we had with these two

Consider myself very lucky to have got a load of tooling for my Herbert lathe a while back, just need to figure what is what...it's all been soaking in diesel for the last week or so.

Ah, yes a job for my wife!

[SRV1]

Many thanks DCL_dave for providing the photographs within this thread that I sent to you.....


All the best...

[DCL_dave]

Many thanks DCL_dave for providing the photographs within this thread that I sent to you.....


All the best...

No worries mate

Been studying your excellent pics so can see how most of it works, the only one I'm not sure of is the maxigrip scope jig?...Does it clamp on the cylinder and apply a separate downward force to the rail via a sliding mechanism? ...to allow for the small movement needed to shift the rail/lugs off the cut-outs in the top of the cylinder?

[junglie]

Here are the pics of SRV1 tools and jigs...hopefully these links will work...

BSA trig block jig 1
BSA trig block jig 2
BSA trig block jig 3
BSA trig block jig 4
MaxiScope Jig
Spring Comp Oview 1
Spring Comp Oview 2
Spring Comp Top View
Spring Comp End View

exellent jigs, going to copy the bsa sloping trigger block jig I HATE doing these by hand.(mine won't look as professional but hopefully work as well.Many thanks for the clear pics!

[DCL_dave]

More pics of SRV1 excellent BSA jigs...

Maxi slide side
Maxi slide base
Maxi slide top
Maxi jig base and slide 1
Maxi jig base and slide 2
Maxi jig components
Maxi jig on Superstar 1
Maxi jig on Superstar 2
Maxi jig on Superstar 3

[SRV1]

Many thanks again Dave for your kind help in organising transfer of photographs....

Just a few words on the Maxi Scope jig:
This was a bit of a prat about to see if it was possible make a tool to help in the removal and replacement of the scope rail. I was messing around with one of my Superstars at the time, I had already removed the rail by the usual bashing method as the "cushions" get screwed up anyway despite applications of WD40 to free up the "stiction".

The photographs show the component parts all were scrap bits apart from the threaded bar and wing nuts. Because it was intended for the Superstar, the aluminium base has cut-outs to fit between the trigger and cocking link spring brackets - this stops the base sliding in opposite direction to the "slide". The base has two pieces of wood to protect the cylinder and has a cut-out to clear the safety lever. The slide has a semi-circular cut-out that butts against the rail, but, has clearance of the cylinder - probably a flat or square section would do, it's just I like giving the ML10 a twirl now and again. On the opposite side of the "slide" there is a square section screwed on with a threaded hole which can be used with a set bolt to draw the slide. Roughly in the middle of the "slide" is a cross piece, again, screwed on - this, combined with the little pivoting "Tommy" bar can used instead/or with the draw bolt to move the "slide". The frame is just pieces of 'L' angle with some cross supports and round bar that rests on the "slide" and a pivoting cross piece for the "Tommy" bar. Not much pressure is needed by the wing-nuts just to compress the rail "cushions" a little to enable the small amount of movement needed by use of the draw bolt and/or lever. With the set up as it is, it is suitable to replace a rail, to remove a rail the end of the "slide" that butts up against the rail needs to be moved in-board a bit - roughly where you see two countersink holes.

It is a bit over the top, as with a bit of patience and a a padded clamp, the rail can be moved the 6-10mm(?) needed with a few taps on the rail with a soft drift and light hammer.

For use on say a Challenger, a means of stopping the bottom from sliding instead of the "slide"! This could be done with a "Jubiliee" clip clamped to leather surrounding the cylinder, for the other direction, a couple of long threaded rod attached to the jig and the other end to suitable piece of wood across the breech jaws.

By no means it is the best solution, just an experiment and many of you could improve on it - I just don't feel like doing a Mk2!

Regarding the BSA trigger block jig: The adapter shaft that is shown fixed to the jig, is also used for other tools. The threaded shaft on the "G" clamp is bored to take the shaft of the adapter. When pressure is applied, the adapter with whatever tool is fixed to it, is easily turned by hand if needed because the adapter shaft sits and pivots on a single ball bearing inside the "G" clamp threaded shaft.

All the best and have some fun - Where is that woman in A Bargain of a Lifetime when she is needed?

[cringe]

Hi , I rebuilt an old webley falcon today, I had made a new piston & seal, the seal is ptfe with o ring, when I came to inserting the piston I did not want to damage the seal by pressing it through the internal thread. I do have some brass shim stock somewhere but could not find it. so 'thinking on my feet' I spotted an empty beer can & cut this with scissors, formed cylindrical 'guide/guard' I put this in the end to cover the threads & pushed the seal/piston through. sorted! this would work with traditional leather cup washers as well. hope this might help somebody?