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Thread: Best way to protect bluing of vintage guns during use

  1. #16
    edbear2 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    I want some of what ever your on :D
    Just taking things to the ultimate conclusion, as per my first post it is impossible to totally prevent wear, you can reduce it though as per advice on various subsequent posts. But the thread reminded me a bit of this for some reason;

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-NgeXl-PPA

    ATB, ED

  2. #17
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by edbear2 View Post
    A good tip to prevent skirt damage to vintage pellets and still use them is to shoot them in a weapon of the next calibre I have found, ie. .177 through a .22, .22 through a .25 etc.

    A bonus is they rarely go far out of the barrel so almost never get lost, and using a duvet or similar item of a light colour in front of the firing point both eliminates any possible dirt / damage caused by hitting the ground and also acts as a background contrast for easy spotting and retrieval.

    they can then be carefully inspected and safely put back in the tins for future use.


    ATB, Ed

    What size would you recommend in my .177 for less skirt damage and do you lube them as an extra precaution, please?

  3. #18
    edbear2 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Binners View Post
    What size would you recommend in my .177 for less skirt damage and do you lube them as an extra precaution, please?
    What a daft question, very few sub .177 pellets are found so this scenario just wont occur enough to comment on further......I dunno, you try your best on here to be helpful and someone just comes along with a really silly post like yours

    However the grease idea is sound, and personally because I used to ride motorbikes in the 1970's I am lucky enough to still have some Duckhams chain guard in the round tins. This is solid lube until placed on a cooker to heat and melt it, a bit like this:

    http://www.gt-rider.com/cms/wp-conte...2016.35.17.jpg

    Image is of a modern version of the same thing.

    Basically once the grease has heated and is liquid you pop in your pellets and simmer for an hour or so (or until the neighbours complain as it smells aweful)...The tins can also catch fire if overheated so a good asbestos fire blanket and smelters gauntlets should always be kept close by.

    After an hour or so (if you can still see straight because of the fumes) remove the treated pellets with nylon tweezers carefully and allow to dry before carefully replacing pellets in the pellet tin, the grease makes no difference at all to anything as the pellets are smaller than the bore, but I still do it just in case, as I am a firm believer in the belt and braces approace in all I do

    ATB, Ed

  4. #19
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by edbear2 View Post
    What a daft question, very few sub .177 pellets are found so this scenario just wont occur enough to comment on further......I dunno, you try your best on here to be helpful and someone just comes along with a really silly post like yours

    However the grease idea is sound, and personally because I used to ride motorbikes in the 1970's I am lucky enough to still have some Duckhams chain guard in the round tins. This is solid lube until placed on a cooker to heat and melt it, a bit like this:

    http://www.gt-rider.com/cms/wp-conte...2016.35.17.jpg

    Image is of a modern version of the same thing.

    Basically once the grease has heated and is liquid you pop in your pellets and simmer for an hour or so (or until the neighbours complain as it smells aweful)...The tins can also catch fire if overheated so a good asbestos fire blanket and smelters gauntlets should always be kept close by.

    After an hour or so (if you can still see straight because of the fumes) remove the treated pellets with nylon tweezers carefully and allow to dry before carefully replacing pellets in the pellet tin, the grease makes no difference at all to anything as the pellets are smaller than the bore, but I still do it just in case, as I am a firm believer in the belt and braces approace in all I do

    ATB, Ed
    Damn

    Your reply came just after I had been on the Chinese pellet forum (where they seem to know a bit more about this sort of thing) and bought a job lot of these, which should out live my Relum (with any luck)

    http://www.abiafactsnews.com/bag-of-...mber-minister/

  5. #20
    Join Date
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    near rotterdam,netherlands
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airsporter1st View Post
    Old fashioned does not automatically mean ineffective - vintage guns are old fashioned. I and many others swear by Ballistol, because it works.
    Well, really almost éverything works, from teflon oil to motoroil spray..As long as it wipes the sweath and acids off. I simply always use Ballistol. I can easily buy it when Im at the gunshop anyway. But I've used feed-industry approved lube, teflonspray and browning oil too with same result.
    ATB,
    yana

  6. #21
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    Mar 2017
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    blackburn
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    pellets

    Quote Originally Posted by Binners View Post
    Damn

    Your reply came just after I had been on the Chinese pellet forum (where they seem to know a bit more about this sort of thing) and bought a job lot of these, which should out live my Relum (with any luck)

    http://www.abiafactsnews.com/bag-of-...mber-minister/
    So I have several miss shaped .25 pellets & a bale of cotton wool, what rifle should I shoot them through?
    But seriously! my late & great uncle Jim advised me to put a couple of drops of olive oil in a tin of pellets, this was way back when little bottle of olive oil was kept with medicines , something to do with getting wax out of ears I think? he said it stopped the pellets from oxidising & lube'd them in the barrel. might work good with a bag of rice?

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