So Ballistol has gone from 'a bad idea' to 'it will probably be OK', via 'it might be fine'
I would be very interested in a link to the information that you have that indicates the presence of 'cleaning acids'. I'm not doubting that you know what you are talking about, but would like to read the formulation details for myself.
I have been using it for years with no adverse effects. Some people dislike the smell, but I actually find it nice - evokative of the magic of my first airgun experiences.
Happy Shooting!! Paul.
"We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.
Look it up on Ballistols own website.....click on the product ....it provides all the information on at least 4 other ingredients in the mix.
TBH ive no strong feelings on it either way but my choice of "bad idea" is personal to me and i should not have put it out there.
Deal is my Walther 53 washers are unobtainable....the original spares gone forever.
I have a pair of seals which i therefore treat with the greatest of respect and have chosen to go pure mineral oil route for me.
Hope the Ballistol works fine for u .
Hot topic...Airsporter1st and Clarky, can I ask you two to picture this, please...100 years ago, you two chaps may have sorted this out the old way, like gentlemen, Marquis of Queensbury rules and all, using stout boxing gloves made of the finest leather, no doubt!...
Can I ask you chaps - what strange potions would you have used to keep those stout leather boxing gloves in good condition?
blah blah
I'm not seeing the acids on the website - in fact this excerpt suggests the opposite:
WHAT PH LEVEL IS BALLISTOL?
While most other brands are pH-neutral, i.e. have a pH around 7, Ballistol has a pH between 8 and 8.5. This is why Ballistol is capable of neutralizing mild acids and human hand sweat, which is of a slightly acidic nature. Please note that Ballistol does not contain any water, so therefore a pH cannot be established until emulsified with water.
Anyway, I hope the Ballistol works out OK for me too - or I've ruined a lot of good guns
Happy Shooting!! Paul.
"We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.
Stripped an old Beesa today that I had stripped 6 months ago and used pure neatsfoot on the piston washer and not used since and I can confirm there was no trace of rust in the cylinder at all. Reassembed with a new piston seal courtesy of DCL Dave,will leave it till tomorrow for abit of a plink.
Airline oil like Cengar green for me (just to muddy the waters)....It's 95% mineral as per ''normal'' old oil, but has inhibiters to protect the metal when not in use and is formulated for use in air tools which often have a percentage of moisture in their air feed.
The diesel thing is a red herring in most vintage stuff (IMHO) if precautions are taken not to over oil, and especially to let the gun rest and the atomised oil settle between shots when first used, this is the cause of most ''bangs''....I have never soaked a washer ever, I allways size and build dry and then add oil sparingly after and stand for a few days.
This and straight 30 weight oil are all I have ever used in all my leather sealed guns, with no problems at all for years. and I just put 2-3 small drops in the transfer every tin of pellets.
Too many choices these days and too many speciality lubes IMHO that are faddy as people ''discover'' them ......K.I.S.S.
ATB, Ed
Protek gunsmiths informed me that one should be purchasing 'neatsfoot compound', which is a compound comprising neatsfoot and mineral oil; that, presumably, comprises the best properties of both elements.
Rgds
A